Surface plate stand

It’s quite old printers black ink. I’ll try ammonia, acetone and alcohol. I’d love it to be clean. But stained won’t hurt its function. Thanks for the suggestions. If anyone wants a drawing I’ll post it.
 
Acetone is petroleum type carbon chains, and degrades the crystal boundaries in the granite. That's why it is considered a problem to get lighter oils on a granite plate. Not a problem for a one-timer, but something to keep in mind.

I don't know for sure that printer's ink is light oil based... depends on what kind of printing, of course. Alcohol should be less problematic than acetone, but......

Why not call Precision Granite or Standridge Granite and ask them? - they are the experts for sure.
 
Dabbler said:
Acetone is petroleum type carbon chains, and degrades the crystal boundaries in the granite.
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Can you please cite that information? I looked, albeit quickly, and the only things that came up say, Acetone is perfectly safe to use on Granite. Though I want to be sure as I use it for cleaning my surface plate.
I know the kitchen countertop installers use Acetone to clean epoxy and tape residue off of granite. I'd imagine if it degraded the surface in any way, they wouldn't use it, but who knows...
 
I m really glad you asked. I am parroting what I was told by tool and die makers when I was being mentored over 30 years ago...

A quick check Doesn't appear to support these claims, but I have heard it often! Now I question the authority of these comments... Certainly you need to use a cleaner that will leave no residue, as this will combine with dust and debris making a cutting compound that will wear out your plate quicker...

Chemical exposure to the plate should be minimized in any event. Judging by the numbers using acetone or xylene to clean the plate it meets the criteria of no residue and fast drying. I will lead to cooling the plate, which affects the calibration (so say some sources). I rely on ammonia, as every surface plate manufacturer offers an ammoniated cleaner for their plates. (IF you choose ammonia, make sure you cleaner is only ammonia and water - no scent, or other chemicals that can leave a residue)
 
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Did you use the 3 point support for your plate?
I find it hard to believe that's actually necessary but it is recommend.
A commercial stand I bought has that system.
I like the light color of your plate.
 
Larry$ said:
Did you use the 3 point support for your plate?
I find it hard to believe that's actually necessary but it is recommend.
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Three-point support means that the plate won’t be unevenly supported. Quality, high precision plates are marked with the support locations that were used during finishing, using those same points insures that the plate will be accurate (all things being equal, as they say).

Also see this:


However, I don’t agree with using Lanolin hand cleaner on a plate.
 
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Hi Larry

Yes it is sitting on the the feet points installed by starrett. There are additional horizontal steel tubes front to back providing the support points. These 3 feet are the only contact points. The vertical corners are almost touching the granite and are just to make sure it can’t get away. Not that 500 lb rocks tend to hop around much. I did a good bit of research before building the stand. I have 2 smaller plates. They are also sitting on 3 point hard rubber feet. The stand has leveling feet on the bottom of the legs. After it sits a few more days I’ll get out the Starrett 199z master precision level and level it up. Need to make a wood cover soon.

Here’s a link to the standard.
 
GT-6 Racer said:
Hi Larry

Yes it is sitting on the the feet points installed by starrett. There are additional horizontal steel tubes front to back providing the support points. These 3 feet are the only contact points. The vertical corners are almost touching the granite and are just to make sure it can’t get away. Not that 500 lb rocks tend to hop around much. I did a good bit of research before building the stand. I have 2 smaller plates. They are also sitting on 3 point hard rubber feet. The stand has leveling feet on the bottom of the legs. After it sits a few more days I’ll get out the Starrett 199z master precision level and level it up. Need to make a wood cover soon.

Here’s a link to the standard.
Click to expand...
I'll make a recommendation. Tempered hardboard (masonite). If you can find the smooth on both sides all the better. It doesn't pick up stuff from being soft, is light and durable. Just put a edge on it to keep it on. My 2 cents.
 
Thanks ! That’s a great suggestion. I’ve made table covers for my Bridgeport form cut to closely match the vise, from 1/4” Masonite. It’s works really well. I lightly soaked the side against the table with corrosion-X and it keeps chips out and no rust or stains. I expect the same Masonite with a nice hardwood edge would be quite a nice lightweight cover. I really need to make one for my little plate as well.
 
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