Surface plate info?

Very nice, Tim. Going to make a cover for it I hope.
I am planning on making a wood top for it that will be suspended above the granite, if I do it right, it will have supports that slide into the square tubes and then the wood top will be supported above it by a couple of inches. I have a maple top that needs a little work but should fit fine. Tim
 
Nice job... -Man that thing looks heavy!


Ray

Starrett says that theirs is 1400# in this size. Put on a mill table or lathe bed and you are looking at up to 1800#. I hope the 1/2x13 threads on the feet will be strong enough. Tim
 
Yeah, that's heavy! You're fine with 1/2"-13. One bolt could handle that. Four is even better.


Ray


Starrett says that theirs is 1400# in this size. Put on a mill table or lathe bed and you are looking at up to 1800#. I hope the 1/2x13 threads on the feet will be strong enough. Tim
 
Yeah, that's heavy! You're fine with 1/2"-13. One bolt could handle that. Four is even better.


Ray
We used 3/4" plate for the feet to screw into, it made welding real easy with the MIG. It made tapping and drilling real fun!:phew: Didn't break a tap either!
 
We used 3/4" plate for the feet to screw into, it made welding real easy with the MIG. It made tapping and drilling real fun!:phew: Didn't break a tap either!


Oh yes, tapping a 3/4" hole actually requires a little beef on the tap handle... BTW: a single 1/2-13" (Grade 2) bolt with 3/4" thread engagement is good for 1100lbs (max safe static working load) and the threads won't tear off until you get around 1600lbs. Since the weight is spread across 4 bolts, you're well within a safe range -especially since that's a static setup. You can put another ton on that table and you're OK as long as you don't bounce it -which you're unlikely going to do since it's a precision surface...

BTW, when you look-up things like this, make sure to read the tables for thread root strength, not bolt strength. Also, the standard charts assume a thread engagement equal to the diameter bolt (which is why, for example, a standard nut that fits a 1/2" bolt will always be 1/2" wide). As you increase thread engagement, strength increases linearly until you get to about 5 diameters of engagement -at which point, thread root strength is about equal to bolt tensile strength (roughly).


Ray
 
Thats a nice size plate. I have seen them go for 50 to 500 depending on the auction. if it is in good shape then I think you made out well. Seems smaller ones go for more, but I am a huge fan of bigger. Nice work on the stand should be easy to level and use.
 
Well I got it to within .002 over 12" of level, but I was not able to get even pressure on all of the feet because my wife was getting cold. I am not keeping the heat on in the shop because my door is not insulated. I also cleaned the plate with some Dykem cleaner, it got most of the debris and discoloration off but someone used an indelible marker on one corner and it didn't clean up. My shop must have a lot of dust, I kept feeling small granules of grit on it even after I wiped the plate off. It may take some time to get it clean enough to start scraping. I hope to make progress tomorrow. Tim
 
Over the years working in QC/QA, I have used just about everything for cleaning plates. From Windex type ammonia cleaners to MEK. And lots in between. Probably best all around is Fantastik or Formula 409, lots of paper towels and a good rinse with clean water and more paper towels. This will generally be sufficient unless there are marks left by solvent based agents. Then out come the tough stuff, like Toluene, Xylene, and MEK. PLEASE TAKE PROPER PRECAUTIONS if you have to use any of those. Extremely flammable, toxic and carcinogenic. But there isn't much they won't remove. And they leave the plate very dry, and that has always been my preference. I worked for an older guy once you wanted me to use GoJo, and after I cleaned it my way, I did....looked very nice, colors in the granite showed nicely, but I really never liked the lanolin residue.

As far as the dust goes, if you have the plate in an open shop, you can hardly stop that. That's one reason I asked about a cover. Not really a nice wooden top like you are doing, but I was thinking of something just to keep it clean. Yours will do that as well. Dust is your enemy though, so you should wipe it down before you use it. That's about all you can do in an open environment.

Realistically, being level is secondary (by far) to having it certified and lapped flat to whatever specification needed. Or at least lapped. In a home shop, a cert isn't all that useful, unless you do commercial work where you have to keep records of all calibrations. Granted, having it level makes some things easier, but it isn't absolutely necessary. And 0.0002/12" should be more than adequate. And if it's on casters ad gets moved, that's out the window anyway.
 
Does it hurt the plate if I use shop air to blow off the dust? Wiping it down just does not seem to work, if I take my hand and wipe it after using a rag, I still feel grit. Tim
 
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