Surface Grinder Wheel Balancing Fixture

[Janderso]

I don’t know the process but this method seems to work.
I elevated the device on the three point brass screws.
Then I used my surface plate and a height gauge to get the ground stock at the same height.
I then used my 6” Starrett level to get squared away.
I mounted a wheel on the arbor and checked the balance.
It repeats! I found the same results over and over, marked in red as the light spot.

 

[Janderso]

I was going to ask about that. I'm wondering if you put a plate in the middle bottom, then get a bullseye type bubble level. While I realize the bubble level may not be accurate to the .0005 per 12" it still should be very good.. just an idea.

Check my results. I just used the six inch, I have a 12” Starrett and one of those super fussy .0005” in one mile levels

 

[tq60]

Back in the day when at the engine shop they balanced their wheels similar but the base was pairs of overlapping rollers, imagine 2 wheel bearings mounted o opposite sides of the sides.

They are spaced so they will support the shaft between them.

Say you have a pair of 1 inch od bearings.

You mount them via bolts drilled maybe 0.75 apart.

Does not need to be level as the shaft rolls in place.


Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[Janderso]

Back in the day when at the engine shop they balanced their wheels similar but the base was pairs of overlapping rollers, imagine 2 wheel bearings mounted o opposite sides of the sides.

They are spaced so they will support the shaft between them.

Say you have a pair of 1 inch od bearings.

You mount them via bolts drilled maybe 0.75 apart.

Does not need to be level as the shaft rolls in place.


Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

That sounds like a good choice.
It did work ok though. I was able to balance two wheels and noticed a marked improvement In surface finish.

 

[Liljoebrshooter]

I gotta build one of these.

Looks good.

Joe

 

[Toolmaker51]

Back in the day when at the engine shop they balanced their wheels similar but the base was pairs of overlapping rollers, imagine 2 wheel bearings mounted o opposite sides of the sides.
They are spaced so they will support the shaft between them.
Say you have a pair of 1 inch od bearings.
You mount them via bolts drilled maybe 0.75 apart.
Does not need to be level as the shaft rolls in place.

Those are roller balancers, sometimes referred to as dynamic, though that implies the unit being balanced is spun under power, like a crankshaft machine.
Rollers use large narrowly crowned wheels, 4 of identical diameter, and very small (proportionally speaking) single row ball bearings, for lowest possible friction & easiest centerline alignment. Commercially, they appear to be hardened, against indentation and friction.
The A-shaped frames are usually cast, 1 foot pad (may) be a jack screw for stability, a pair of sturdy rods slide in bored holes, also for alignment. Level isn't requirement, but can improve results. I've not seen one sized suitably for wheels less than 10"-12".
Use of drill/ reamer blanks for rails turns out easier than knife edges, and less prone to damage. Many have a bullseye bubble level for initial setup, shortening tedious indicating. Three screws mean only two need manipulation.