Surface Grinder rookie

There has been a lot of great information shared already so forgive me if this is repetitive. I tried to keep this brief but it is tough.

A couple of notes on successful grinding starting from the beginning.
  • The machine must be leveled to a very high sensitivity.
    • A .0005"/foot or better level is required.
  • The machine table should be inspected for flatness before mounting the chuck
    • The table can be ground if it is not within .0002" flatness over the chuck mounting area.
  • The chuck must be inspected for flatness/parallelism before mounting.
    • If the bottom is not flat, it should be blocked in, top side down and ground flat.
      • Blocking it in and shimming any twist/warp will keep from reproducing the same defect.
      • Do not use the magnet or clamp to hold it it down.
  • Mount the chuck..
    • Assemble the rail in order to indicate in straight in the x axis direction
    • clamp the chuck, 15 foot pounds on the left and 10 foot pounds on the right.
      • This is to allow for heat expansion.
  • Magnet on or magnet off?
    • Permanent magnets, always on.
      • They do not create heat when on.
    • Electromagnetic chucks turned on with power reduced to below 30% or off
      • They will create heat and the reduced power helps
      • Never leave them on at full power for long periods unless you have flood coolant running.
    • Electro permanent chucks
      • Perform just like Permanent magnetic chucks
  • Grinding the chuck (top, bottom or table)
    • A course dress is recommended
    • Down feed should not exceed .0002"-.0003" (Y-axis)
    • Cross feed should be about .050" to .100" per stroke (Z-axis)
    • Traverse speed (X-axis) should be fairly rapid
    • You will want to do several spark outs
  • If you have coolant, use it!
    • smearing wax on the chuck between cuts works
    • Smearing cutting oil on the chuck between cuts works as well or better.
    • Mist coolant works better and flood coolant is best.
    • With care, a chuck can be ground dry. Leave electromagnetic chucks off and wait for the surface to cool to ambient between cuts.
I attached some information about wheel selection and dressing. I put this together many years ago so there may be some outdated terminology. If you have any questions, do not hesitate to ask.
I forgot to mention, grit refers to grain size and grade refers to hardness. Grades go from soft to hard as the alphabet progresses. H, I J & K wheels are typically used for surface grinding and harder wheels like L,M, & N wheels are used for centerless or cylindrical. In a home shop, you would most likely use a 60I and a 46H or I when most often.
 

Attachments

  • Grinding info.docx
    966.4 KB · Views: 4
There us alot of good info here for sure! I may video my process when I get back at it so you all can follow my mess ups getting it dialed in .
I purchased a Noga cooling block so now i gotta come up with a pump setup.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20230104_174344_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20230104_174344_Chrome.jpg
    85.5 KB · Views: 5
I recently acquired a surface grinder as well and looking to learn as much as I can as I go through the machine. One thing I am wondering is what others do to protect the other machines in a small shop while grinding. At the moment I envision throwing a painter’s tarp over the mill and lathe. Is there a better idea?
 
Dust collector would be the best option I think.
Air cleaners work pretty good too.
 
I recently acquired a surface grinder as well and looking to learn as much as I can as I go through the machine. One thing I am wondering is what others do to protect the other machines in a small shop while grinding. At the moment I envision throwing a painter’s tarp over the mill and lathe. Is there a better idea?
Dust collector i would think. A lot of grinders you see have the collector hose attachment.
 
Im still hunting for the proper container to setup my pump and such. I may end up building one out of stainless.
 
Back
Top