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Thats a good lead, I’ll check in to it.
Right now, google is failing to find tubing that makes the id and od. If the od is good, the id is too small. If the id is good, the od is too big. Needs super thin walls…
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Straightening a Dual 1229Q tone arm
- Thread starter great white
- Start date
Right now, google is failing to find tubing that makes the id and od. If the od is good, the id is too small. If the id is good, the od is too big. Needs super thin walls…
Try rolling it.
Do you have a granite plate?
What you need is 2 very flat, very hard items.
Place the tube between them, place tube on plate, then flat thing on top and apply some pressure while sliding the top, causing the tube to roll.
This will cause it to straighten out a bit.
As it gets straighter it will roll with more pressure.
The dents may come out as well.
Applying enough pressure to force it out of round enough to cause some stresses but not crush it may cause the dents to come out some. But the important part it it will be straight.
Steel plate against the granite plate, both plates need to be very hard, plywood may work to start but not finish.
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Do you have a granite plate?
What you need is 2 very flat, very hard items.
Place the tube between them, place tube on plate, then flat thing on top and apply some pressure while sliding the top, causing the tube to roll.
This will cause it to straighten out a bit.
As it gets straighter it will roll with more pressure.
The dents may come out as well.
Applying enough pressure to force it out of round enough to cause some stresses but not crush it may cause the dents to come out some. But the important part it it will be straight.
Steel plate against the granite plate, both plates need to be very hard, plywood may work to start but not finish.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
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For the tube, I've un-dented such items by inserting a massive loose cylinder into the bore, and slapping
the tube down on a wood table; the loose cylinder hammers the dent from inside,
and the wood doesn't mar the visible surface. Extra points for using a butcher's block...
As for the drive wheel, the usual rubbers for these functions take automotive brake fluid
wiped on, and it can revitalize that material. That's an old typewriter-repair trick, for
hard platen rollers, that was also used for dot-matrix printer rejuvenation.
Moisten, rub in, and let sit for a while, wipe off excess with isopropanol.
the tube down on a wood table; the loose cylinder hammers the dent from inside,
and the wood doesn't mar the visible surface. Extra points for using a butcher's block...
As for the drive wheel, the usual rubbers for these functions take automotive brake fluid
wiped on, and it can revitalize that material. That's an old typewriter-repair trick, for
hard platen rollers, that was also used for dot-matrix printer rejuvenation.
Moisten, rub in, and let sit for a while, wipe off excess with isopropanol.
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How about an aluminum arrow shaft - usually Easton Aluminum, and very precise and straight.
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Well, is it perfect?
No.
But it's perfect enough:
TIR is 0.003 thou, probably as good (or better) than when it was extruded. There's a couple marks still on the tube, but you can only get so much damage out on such thin wall small dia tubing. So there'll be some marks, but that will just be a reminder it's got a lot of TI.
I basically quit when I hit the 90% mark. I find going for absolute perfection in this type of thing usually leads to scrapping the part, so 90% is good enough.
It rolls on the surface plate and stops in a different spot each time, so that's pretty good.
It'll work fine I'm thinking....
No.
But it's perfect enough:
TIR is 0.003 thou, probably as good (or better) than when it was extruded. There's a couple marks still on the tube, but you can only get so much damage out on such thin wall small dia tubing. So there'll be some marks, but that will just be a reminder it's got a lot of TI.
I basically quit when I hit the 90% mark. I find going for absolute perfection in this type of thing usually leads to scrapping the part, so 90% is good enough.
It rolls on the surface plate and stops in a different spot each time, so that's pretty good.
It'll work fine I'm thinking....
Last edited:
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Have you considered K&S? They sell 12" lengths of thin wall alumium tubing in ~1/32" increments. Check a local hobby shop. Of course, if the Dual tonearm is longer than 12", K&S tubing would not work for you. Perhaps you can find longer lengths on their website:
ksmetals.com
I've seen their tubing in longer (up to 3 feet) lengths in some stores. Best wishes finding a suitable replacement part!
Search: 84 results found for "aluminum tubing"
K&S Precision Metals serves retail needs for hobby, hardware, or creative motivation. If our stocked products of Brass Tubing, Aluminum Rod, Copper Sheet Metal, or Stainless Steel Strip isn't enough - then send us a message on how we can custom cut your small or large quantity job. RFQs are...
ksmetals.com
I've seen their tubing in longer (up to 3 feet) lengths in some stores. Best wishes finding a suitable replacement part!
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Going back together:
Not bad considering I stated with something the shape of a banana.....
Not bad considering I stated with something the shape of a banana.....
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Got my dual 1229Q on the stand and started putting adjustments and lubrication to right. Ended up polishing the outside of the platter from it's stock raw finish:
In the process of cleaning, I discovered why the player only had 33 rpm. Turns out there's a pivot the idler runs on (shift where circlip #122 goes) that was seized solid:
It was like someone used locktite blue on it, that's how solid it was. I actually had to use a little heat to break it apart. Once cleaned and lubed, 33, 45 and 78 worked as per. It's only got a tiny bit of movement (somewhere on the order of 1-2mm, tops), but it's obviously an important one!
Cleaning and lubricating continues....
In the process of cleaning, I discovered why the player only had 33 rpm. Turns out there's a pivot the idler runs on (shift where circlip #122 goes) that was seized solid:
It was like someone used locktite blue on it, that's how solid it was. I actually had to use a little heat to break it apart. Once cleaned and lubed, 33, 45 and 78 worked as per. It's only got a tiny bit of movement (somewhere on the order of 1-2mm, tops), but it's obviously an important one!
Cleaning and lubricating continues....
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