Stones for final sharpening of tool bits

[Andre]

I use two different methods for getting that fine edge. For bench stones, I use the Spyderco 8"x2" medium, fine, and ultra-fine ceramic stones. These get most used extensively for getting that the shape and quality of smaller edges. For broader edges or something I want even finer than the 1200 UF stone, I use a 9"x12" surface plate and many different sandpapers, all the way down to 5um.

The granite surface plate is easier to use. I just clean the surface really good, and use a little water to stick the paper to the stone. It works really great for large kitchen knives.

BTW, Spyderco medium stone is 600 grit, fine (white) stone is 1000 and UF (also white) is 1500.

You a spyderco fan too? My Endura 4's edge is really getting thick... I have to thin it out with a relief grind but cant make myself take my favorite knife to the belt sander! Maybe I will make a jig and just go for it. What can I loose? Sharpening it now is impossible.

 

[Cobra]

I use 2"x6" diamond "stones" from Lee Valley. Usually the 600 is all I use but do have the 1200 as well. Just lubricated with water. The 600 cuts very fast and gives a good finish.

 

[JohnG]

This thread is 12 for 12 on useful info. Thanks to all.

I use the same Arkansas, India, and diamond stones mentioned numerous times to sharpen both metal cutting and wood cutting tools, so I don't have anything add there; but this has brought up 2 questions:

No one mentions water stones (cerium oxide abrasives, I think) which are all the rage among woodworkers. Any thoughts?

Cobra says he uses water on diamond stones, but that's the only mention of cutting fluid. I've used WD40 for years without thinking much about it. For a while I used water on diamond stones but then found I preferred the WD40 there too.

 

[DMS]

I typically use a bit of water on the diamond stones/laps. That's all you need. It just serves to wash the waste away. For india stones, I use a bit of cutting oil or wd-40. I don't think you need fluid with arkansas stones; my understanding is they are so hard they actually burnish the edge, rather than abrading it, so there should not be any waste to speak of. This is all book lernin` though, so somebody who uses them should chime in.

 

[mosedawg56]

I typically use a bit of water on the diamond stones/laps. That's all you need. It just serves to wash the waste away. For india stones, I use a bit of cutting oil or wd-40. I don't think you need fluid with arkansas stones; my understanding is they are so hard they actually burnish the edge, rather than abrading it, so there should not be any waste to speak of. This is all book lernin` though, so somebody who uses them should chime in.

I like to use atf (automatic transmission fluid) with my India and Arkansas stones. Why? Because my father, who taught me the art of tool sharpening, always used it. Either of these type of stones needs some kind of fluid to wash away the debris. Using them dry allows this debris to be ground into the stone and will eventually clog up the surface of the stone and cause premature wear.

When I use diamond sharpening tools, I use water as mentioned above.

Typically, I start with the coarser grits of India stones and work my way to a hard Arkansas and finish with a leather strop and/or a buffing wheel. Lathe bits are touched up with only those stones necessary to get the job done.

Just my way... results may vary.

Pat

 

[AzizaVFR]

BTW, Spyderco medium stone is 600 grit, fine (white) stone is 1000 and UF (also white) is 1500.

You a spyderco fan too? My Endura 4's edge is really getting thick... I have to thin it out with a relief grind but cant make myself take my favorite knife to the belt sander! Maybe I will make a jig and just go for it. What can I loose? Sharpening it now is impossible.

Not really a fan of their knives. I prefer D2 for my blade material of the ones I have purchased. Benchmade has gotten enough of my money with their Bone Collector line.

These Spyderco stones have been used to sharpen/shape/hone everything over the past 10 years. From hammer/sear/trigger sets, to HSS bits, ultra fine edges on the kitchen knives. The hardest blade I have made is a skinning knive ground from a 6"x1.5"x0.125" piece of T-15 HSS. It took forever to flat ground the bevel, then setting the cutting edge at 20 degrees total. It made very quick work on three whitetail does and four feral hog females without having to be sharpened.

They are worth the money for the final edge work.