Stones for final sharpening of tool bits

[schemer]

Probably a stupid question but when it comes to stones for sharpening the finishing touch on your tooling, is there just one or two needed and in what grade? I see India stones, Arkansas stones, wet stones, oil stones etc. Then there are the diamond sticks too. So for all of you stoners, what does the machinist really need?
Thanks,
schemer

 

[JimDawson]

I have a small assortment of stones in my box. The two that I use most are 1x2, about 240 and 400? grit. I also have a diamond stone that I sometime use for dressing carbide bits. I don't think there is really a must have stone(s). Normally I don't stone my bits at all. I also have a couple of 6x2x1 combo stones for larger work and dressing scratches on the mill table and stuff like that.

 

[Andre]

I use a very hard Arkansas stone. The type I use (lots of Arkansas stones out there) is very hard, milky white/yellow, polishes more than cuts, probably 1000-1200 grit (yes stones get that fine) and probably has a specific gravity of 2.50 (who knows what that means, but it's on an online chart)

I also sometimes use a softer Arkansas stone and black ultra fine stone, but rarely.

I prefer Arkansas stones over India stones.

 

[AzizaVFR]

I use two different methods for getting that fine edge. For bench stones, I use the Spyderco 8"x2" medium, fine, and ultra-fine ceramic stones. These get most used extensively for getting that the shape and quality of smaller edges. For broader edges or something I want even finer than the 1200 UF stone, I use a 9"x12" surface plate and many different sandpapers, all the way down to 5um.

The granite surface plate is easier to use. I just clean the surface really good, and use a little water to stick the paper to the stone. It works really great for large kitchen knives.

 

[mikey]

For general honing of lathe tools, I use a fine and extra-fine diamond stone. I have many of these but the most useful are the credit card sized ones you can hold in the palm of your hand. These are solid - no dots - and make quick work of honing HSS, cobalt or carbide. I use these after shaping a lathe tool and for general sharpening when using those tools.

For my finer tools, like gravers and fine finishing lathe tools, I use a fine India stone and a Translucent Arkansas stone. The former is red in color and Norton makes the best ones. The Translucent Arkansas is whitish in color, often with streaks of color in them. These are the finest natural stones available and will put a mirror finish on your tool. If you sharpen with the fine India first and then take a few strokes with the Translucent Arkansas you should be able to shave with that tool.

 

[Ebel440]

I use 400 and 600 grit silicon carbide paper glued onto cast aluminum plate then if i need to i use a 1000 grit sharpening stone i dont know what type it is but its white.

 

[DMS]

I use either small fine india stone, or a small diamond lap (don't recall the grit, but it is very fine). It doesn't take much work.

Regarding the comment about specific gravity, that is the density relative to water. A specific gravity of 2.5 means the stone is 2.5x denser than water.

 

[schemer]

I have a small assortment of stones in my box. The two that I use most are 1x2, about 240 and 400? grit. I also have a diamond stone that I sometime use for dressing carbide bits. I don't think there is really a must have stone(s). Normally I don't stone my bits at all. I also have a couple of 6x2x1 combo stones for larger work and dressing scratches on the mill table and stuff like that.

Thanks Jim. I am going to have to buy a stone in the future but I already have a small Starret and a diamond flat hone stick. I just want to get something that actually works instead of getting a collection of stones that never get used.
schemer

- - - Updated - - -

I use a very hard Arkansas stone. The type I use (lots of Arkansas stones out there) is very hard, milky white/yellow, polishes more than cuts, probably 1000-1200 grit (yes stones get that fine) and probably has a specific gravity of 2.50 (who knows what that means, but it's on an online chart)

I also sometimes use a softer Arkansas stone and black ultra fine stone, but rarely.

I prefer Arkansas stones over India stones.

Andre,
Good to know Arkansas over India stones. That helps narrow down the hunt.
Thanks,
schemer

- - - Updated - - -

I use two different methods for getting that fine edge. For bench stones, I use the Spyderco 8"x2" medium, fine, and ultra-fine ceramic stones. These get most used extensively for getting that the shape and quality of smaller edges. For broader edges or something I want even finer than the 1200 UF stone, I use a 9"x12" surface plate and many different sandpapers, all the way down to 5um.

The granite surface plate is easier to use. I just clean the surface really good, and use a little water to stick the paper to the stone. It works really great for large kitchen knives.

Aziza,
Thanks for the info. Added to my research list. I have a surface plate too. I use it for resurfacing small cylinder heads like you describe. Works great.
schemer

- - - Updated - - -

For general honing of lathe tools, I use a fine and extra-fine diamond stone. I have many of these but the most useful are the credit card sized ones you can hold in the palm of your hand. These are solid - no dots - and make quick work of honing HSS, cobalt or carbide. I use these after shaping a lathe tool and for general sharpening when using those tools.

For my finer tools, like gravers and fine finishing lathe tools, I use a fine India stone and a Translucent Arkansas stone. The former is red in color and Norton makes the best ones. The Translucent Arkansas is whitish in color, often with streaks of color in them. These are the finest natural stones available and will put a mirror finish on your tool. If you sharpen with the fine India first and then take a few strokes with the Translucent Arkansas you should be able to shave with that tool.

Mikey,
I have a long diamond hone maybe 1/2 x 3 that I use. I need to look for the credit card sized one. I use it on HSS too. Have you ever wore out a diamond stone? I think the one I have is more of a thin strip glued to a plastic handle that resembles a butter knife. Probably a cheapo. Good info on the stones. Norton always does make good stuff.
Thanks,
schemer

- - - Updated - - -

I use 400 and 600 grit silicon carbide paper glued onto cast aluminum plate then if i need to i use a 1000 grit sharpening stone i dont know what type it is but its white.

Ebel,
Sounds like a good idea too. Thanks for sharing.
schemer

- - - Updated - - -

I use either small fine india stone, or a small diamond lap (don't recall the grit, but it is very fine). It doesn't take much work.

Regarding the comment about specific gravity, that is the density relative to water. A specific gravity of 2.5 means the stone is 2.5x denser than water.

DMS,
My fine diamond lap is the EZ-Lap brand with a plastic handle. Seems to work fine but seems like it won't last long for some reason. I just looked at Enco and they have a good assortment of stones to choose from for my next order.
Thanks,
schemer

 

[DMS]

The thing about diamond stones is that they _feel_ a lot sharper when they are new, and then once they wear in a bit they become less grabby. I assure you they still cut quite well. I wore through one of my fingernails on an old very fine diamond stone. Didn't even feel it, just noticed some red and thought it was oil. Diamond stones/laps should last a VERY long time unless you are using them hours a day. Not counting the cheapo variety, but the ones from EZ-Lap and DMT seem to be very long lasting (I have had one for about 5 years, and it is going strong, even with heavy use).

 

[schemer]

The thing about diamond stones is that they _feel_ a lot sharper when they are new, and then once they wear in a bit they become less grabby. I assure you they still cut quite well. I wore through one of my fingernails on an old very fine diamond stone. Didn't even feel it, just noticed some red and thought it was oil. Diamond stones/laps should last a VERY long time unless you are using them hours a day. Not counting the cheapo variety, but the ones from EZ-Lap and DMT seem to be very long lasting (I have had one for about 5 years, and it is going strong, even with heavy use).

Thanks for the info on the hones and the EZ-Lap in particular. The less grabby part is why I thought it wasn't going to last I guess. My should last a long time then. ) Whenever I see red it's always blood. :angry:
schemer