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MON Steady Rest, Taper Attachment
- Thread starter Jonathans
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2014
- Messages
- 42
If you are going to start working on a 10EE, I would make Cal my new best friend.
On Cal's advice, in addition to the taper attachment I also got the cross-feed dial and the draw bar. The telescoping cross-feed screw won't work with the dial from a non-telescoping screw.
Unless the mounting holes line up perfectly, you will probably need to drill, ream and dowel the holes in your saddle and then match drill and tap new holes. Monarch typically drilled the dowel holes after the assembly had been mounted and all adjustments completed. In a lot of cases, this appears to have been done using a hand drill-motor and they are often not perfectly straight and the locations can vary. Any dowel holes on your saddle will either need to be drilled oversized (along with the taper attachment) or doweled and re-drilled if they are very far out of line.
I pretty much copied the message I received from Cal when I was in the process of buying my taper attachment. I thought it best so as not to jumble anything in translation.
I have three lathes now, wanted and have taper attachments for/on all three, and have not used one yet.
My 1930's era 10EE project.
Regards.
Bob
On Cal's advice, in addition to the taper attachment I also got the cross-feed dial and the draw bar. The telescoping cross-feed screw won't work with the dial from a non-telescoping screw.
Unless the mounting holes line up perfectly, you will probably need to drill, ream and dowel the holes in your saddle and then match drill and tap new holes. Monarch typically drilled the dowel holes after the assembly had been mounted and all adjustments completed. In a lot of cases, this appears to have been done using a hand drill-motor and they are often not perfectly straight and the locations can vary. Any dowel holes on your saddle will either need to be drilled oversized (along with the taper attachment) or doweled and re-drilled if they are very far out of line.
I pretty much copied the message I received from Cal when I was in the process of buying my taper attachment. I thought it best so as not to jumble anything in translation.
I have three lathes now, wanted and have taper attachments for/on all three, and have not used one yet.
My 1930's era 10EE project.
Regards.
Bob
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2015
- Messages
- 662
Used my Sheldon taper attachment once upon a time to make a morse taper but that can be done with the compound. 99.999% of the time the taper attachment will be unused, disconnected and covered to keep chips out. Also, the length of taper is limited if cannons and such are your goal. Might want to find out the max travel before investing in one ...
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2014
- Messages
- 285
Every place I have worked had at least one machine with a taper attachment. Probably one of the least used pieces of equipment we had. But in a business, when you needed it you really needed it.
There are lots of work arounds like offsetting the tailstock and using the compound as Randy suggested. Randy pointed out the biggest thing to watch out for, especially on a 10EE, and that is the length of taper you will be able to cut. You will probably find that you will be able to make longer tapers without the taper attatchment.
But then again, if I had a 10EE, I would want every bell and whistle available.
Darrell
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2015
- Messages
- 662
...But then again, if I had a 10EE, I would want every bell and whistle available.
Darrell
ME TOO !!!! And if I had the kind of money to buy a nice 10EE, I wouldn't have a problem with paying $500 for a steady rest.
I forgot to mention offsetting the tailstock for turning one of those cannon barrels. Leave a short non-tapered section on the muzzle for the steady rest (to make the bore).