Starting my tool collection

[Andre]

Anything that takes a direct reading to used as a final dimension, I would spend the jack for quality. I use cheap calipers but quality mics. If using inside mics, use quality. But if using a snap gage type they can be cheap, just read them with quality.

I highly disagree.
If your shooting for a precise dimension, using calipers to get within a few thou of size, what happens if they read a few thou over? Your part is scrapped.

Now my gauge blocks are all imports.

Gauge blocks are precision instruments, for inspecting and verifying your parts. If your calibration standards are off, so is your work.

Pocket tap drill chart.

This I agree with, very handy to have. Most drill indexes have then built in though.

 

[CNCMAN]

I must say I love my interapid indicator and my Swiss made B&S digital caliper. Recently I bought toolbox from a machinist estate and was impressed with quality of the old Luftkin mics.
My current employer provides the tools needed,iso and all, but my 2cents are the less you spend the more you will be disappointed.:thinking:

 

[mack318]

spend as much money as you can on your chip brush.

haha just kidding.

drills taps allen wrenches. your going to break a few of those things. esp just learning.


you want to separate these by category.

layout tools:

dykem and hyspot blue

scribe, divider, center punch, square[s}

digital calipers and a non digital set. digital is great until the battery is dead. learn to use both.

a couple of 6" rulers are helpful. in 64ths and 100ths

hand tools:

mabe you already have some of these, but its good to have a complete set of machinist tools

wrenches, and sockets, allen drivers

hammers

files and scrapers. once you start collecting these you never stop.

mostly considered an old fashion way of removing metal. you find yourself reaching for them alot

have fun collecting

 

[Grumpy Gator]

Don't forget to check out Pawn Shops. They usually price there stuff on the high side but if you have some patience and check back in a few weeks later and it's still there you can make them an offer of what you will pay. It took me 2 months of checking back but in the end I picked up a B&S 6" vernier and 0-1"micrometer for under $20.00.
*************Just Saying**************Gator************** uch:

 

[chuckorlando]

What happens is I switch to my good mics when I have 5-10thou left. I might be old school in my thining, but I dont care if the calipers cost 1000 bucks, if it needs to be tight, you switch to mics. Calipers are for rough work or work that can stand to be a couple thou off. I would never try to get a tight slip or press fit with calipers.

And when my calipers get dropped or banged around, they were cheap. While my mics are in a nice soft place in my box

And if your calipers are 0ff that much, you should not be using them. Or I would not be using them rather.

I bought my gage blocks because we had none in school. I'm not going to pay a ton of money for a tool that is intended to sit under not just my sine bar, but every other dudes sine bar in school. Or used under a parts flat to clock it 180*, or any number of other processes we have used them for. I cant speak for anyone else, but I sure dont have thousands of dollars to spend on tools in the first 30 days of class, to compensate for what the school lacks. And my cheap blocks have milled the angles they needed just fine. I bought them for a purpose and they serve that purpose repeatedly.

I highly disagree.
If your shooting for a precise dimension, using calipers to get within a few thou of size, what happens if they read a few thou over? Your part is scrapped.




Gauge blocks are precision instruments, for inspecting and verifying your parts. If your calibration standards are off, so is your work.




This I agree with, very handy to have. Most drill indexes have then built in though.