Starting my tool collection

Shawn Russell

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Jan 22, 2014
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I just started a 2 year machine program this week and have not been this excited in 20 years... yes, I am getting a late start into this game but hopefully you can teach an old dog new tricks.

I have a slew of questions but wanted to get some different perspectives...

1. We have started using class measuring tools and it appears the program might be over subscribed because we have to wait on tools. Maybe I am old fashioned but I was taught to always return things in a better fashion than they were given to you. I ended class 10 minutes early so I could wipe down all the tools. I am sitting in the tool room and every other student just puts their tool up and some of them just throw their tool into the cabinet or drawer. I am sure micrometers are well built but how long can they stay true if every student in every class just tosses them around?

Thus, I have decided to invest in my own set of tools. Am I being too judgmental and selfish for not wanting to use what other people do not take care of?

2. I have a comprehensive tool list that I have collected from another college machinist's program. ChuckOrlando has given me a lot of good advice on tools and how he went about acquiring them. The one gotcha in his method is that it will take time to find great tools at a good price. Thus, I am starting my hunt now before I get to a class where the tools is a requirement. Below is the list of items. What items would you recommend I purchase the highest quality I can afford and where can I go with lesser known brands or even HF items?

0-3" outside micrometers
½ - 4" telescoping gauge set
Universal dial test indicator (button type)


Scriber set
Center punch set
Brass hammer
Combination square set
3/8 - 1 1/8" wrench set
0-1" dial indicator with mighty magnetic base
60° center gauge
Edge finder
Radius gauge set
5 pieces - ½" x 4" high speed cutting tools (5% cobalt)
5 pieces - 5/16" x 2" high speed cutting tools
Drill set with index (fraction, number, and letter)
Wire brush
2" chip brush (wood handle)
8" mill/bastard file with handle
8" thread file with handle
Center drill set (#1-#5)
Allen wrench sets (metric and fractional)
Tap wrenches (small and medium)
Rou-a-burr (also called a twist-a-burr)
Divider
Calculator: Texas Instrument ti-30xa
Hermaphrodite calipers
India stone (medium)
Steel-toed safety shoes
Safety glasses with side shields
Rolling tool box
Ballpeen hammer
Channel lock and needle nose (small)
Feeler gauges
¾" 82° countersink
1/2" & 3/4" end mill
Depth micrometer 0-3 inch

Cheers
 
Personaly, I would go more expensive on the mics and squares and calipers. HF is too hit and miss for me to trust their stuff. Another brand I am going to stay away from is Fowler. It seems they just import chineese stuff and put their name on it. I have had pretty good luck with my e-bay mitutoyo mics. The main problem with getting stuff from e-bay is that you must be patient. I missed on some $40.00 Mitutoyo 1-2" mikes and wound up paing more then twice that on a stupid bid :( I would also recomend spending a bit more for a good starrett or b&s combination square, since it would be very annoying to have an out-of square square misleading you... for the brushes and punches HF would probably be a good starting point. Also, don't forget to check the tool sections at Home Depot/Loews/Ace etc. I actually found a fairly reasonable set of chisels/pin punches that were made in the US at Home Depot.

When it comes to buying tools, I try to remember the sticker I saw in the Prototype shop at work:

"Buy Quality and only cry once"

Good luck with your adventures.
 
....Another brand I am going to stay away from is Fowler. It seems they just import chineese stuff and put their name on it....for the brushes and punches HF would probably be a good starting point.

Old German Fowler Helios are nice tools. I have a FH 11" dial caliper and it reads a Starrett non flexible satin chrome rule 6.000" on the spot.

If you have broken endmills you can make your own center punch........it would make a good starting "point" :roflmao:


[video=youtube;D6rRCzBwZ6g]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6rRCzBwZ6g[/video]
 
Anything that takes a direct reading to used as a final dimension, I would spend the jack for quality. I use cheap calipers but quality mics. If using inside mics, use quality. But if using a snap gage type they can be cheap, just read them with quality.

Now my angle blocks, parallels, gage blocks are all imports. Better to screw up and drill into cheap tools in that regard. More or less the set up things that could come in contact with a cutter.

Make sure you can have a roll around in school. We have to take our stuff home with us. I would also try to burn up the schools end mills and other cutters and drills. It took a while to learn where it was all at, but thats one aspect our class is not short on. Besides, if you can out work your class mates, you will be done with it long before they need it. Your going to ruin some cutters. I would let your tuition cover that cost.

I did not see mention of thread mics and/or thread wires. A magnetic pen is helpfull for cutters in T slots or rolled under the mill. Pocket tap drill chart.
 
I've seen you have safety steel toe shoes in your list.
Today you can find "stylish" sneakers with steel toe for a price far lower than normal "trendy" hyper-advertised sneakers (here is why I always wear them, even when not working…).
Remember they must be replaced every couple of years, if you want to keep a safe sole!
 
I agree with quality. On measuring equipment and hand tools There's nothing worse when finishing a project or adjusting a machine then to have a cheap wrench or screwdriver strip a bolt or worse slip and cut open a knuckle


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When it comes to buying tools, I try to remember the sticker I saw in the Prototype shop at work:

"Buy Quality and only cry once"

I agree with this %100, don't go cheap on the measuring tools, but that's not to say grab the first expensive set of micrometers or calipers you see, get around to some tools suppliers and ask to have a look at the tools and handle them, different brands of micrometers and calipers have a different feel, and you want to find ones that feel comfortable to you in fit and smoothness, take a small bit of something with you to measure and give different makes a try.:))
 
I would suggest you check online sources like Shars, LMS etc. Some of the distributors sell those same items on eBay with no shipping which can help your savings. I look thru McMaster Carr for items too and they should be in Atlanta for pickup.
 
You are going to need measuring tools eventually so buying them now isn't a big deal in my mind.

You just hit on one (of my many) :)) pet peeves. it bugs the hell out of me how some people treat tools!!! What type of machinist do you think the guy who throws his measurement tools into the cabinet will be.

I agree to buy the best you can but in honesty I keep my quality stuff in my cabinet most of the time and it only gets used when a measurement is critical. The stuff I keep handy for quick measurements are HF calipers and an old Rex(brown and sharp) micrometer that I got from my father. I'm just a hobby machinist so most of what I do isn't super critical, and I also realized that I dropped my calibers a few times over the years and I preferr that the stuff I drop be inexpensive.

Ive actually compared the measurements between my starret and myoto to the HF stuff and it always seems to read well within a thousands of an inch which is good enough for the majority of the stuff I do.


Enjoy your class!

Chris
 
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I would certainly buy a high quality 0 to 1" outside micrometer to begin with. Also a good quality dial caliper. It amazes me how little I use my micrometers in the above 1" range and how often I use my Vernier (I'm very old fashioned) calipers. Once again, my inside and depth micrometers get very little use while the Verniere caliper gets a lot. High speed tool bits make great parallels. and there is a lot of satisfaction in using tools that you have made yourself. Grain914
 
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