Starting a rebarrel

Has everyone read the book by John L. Hinnant? https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Illustrated-Precision-Barrel-Fitting/dp/B001TOJTDA
Don't buy it from Amazon, instead go to the publisher or Brownell's, it should be a $40 book. Mine came autographed.

Pretty much everything that I do on rifles is covered by Hinnant. He even includes drawings for fixtures and tools. He also has a way of taming the hype on things such as chambering through the headstock vs. chambering through a steady. I appreciate his take that, in the right hands, accurate rifles can be built on even an Atlas lathe. He was right about that!
$36.89 from Brownell's (correction $40.99-I get a discount) = "Out of Stock"
VS -Amazon $189
Thanks for the tip.
I wonder if it will ever come back?? In stock
 
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They show it as in stock here https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/302/1/BOOK-CIG-PRBF for $35. I wish I could remember where I got my copy, it's been a while. I like books and have quite a few, but this one is by far the best.

I also learned a lot from this young whipper snapper's blog from his time at Lassen. He does a nice bolt gun project with good detail. Like Hinnant, he's not witholding any trade secrets. http://nerdgun.blogspot.com/
Got it on order, great find! Thanks!
 
I started turning a mandrel last night and wondered if I could get enough space to slip a custom ground inside threading tool in to true the threads while on the mandrel...good idea or bad? If I could get the face and threads in one setup on a mandrel, I could build a lug face lapping tool from brass easily enough.
 
My unknowledgeable take on the importance of truing the threads is it is not necessary. Just like a chuck on a lathe the barrel doesn't register on the threads. It should be registering on the face of the action. You still want a close fit on the threads for strength. If you want to true up the threads then a fixture like John's is the way to go.
 
For lapping lugs use barrel stub or make one. Install spring system to apply pressure on bolt when closing. Apply lapping compound and have at it.
 
Most do more harm trying to true front of lugs, back of lugs, re-cutting threads. Cumulative effect is to get bolt out of time with action and non-standard thread on action. Good true recoil lug, trued up face on action, lapping lugs (not necessary to get 100% contact and do it before setting final headspace), good quality barrel with straight chamber, good crown, good bedding job and it will out shoot most nuts behind the trigger.

Lug lapping tool for 1-1/16" - 16 thread. Screw into action and maintains spring pressure on bolt face. Plunger has a relief hole for firing pin.
 

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Hopefully my 'mandrel' is good enough. I tried to make sure it was all done in one setup for concentricity, and no I don't really expect it to be usable more than one time.

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I cold blued the raw edges since here in coastal Texas rust blooms happen almost as you watch. Then I did a little lug lapping.
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I'm trying to decide if that is enough of if it needs a couple more cycles. I am using some 5 micron diamond grit I got for sharpening knives. Very slow going.
 
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As long as you don't bend the mandrel you should be able to use it again on the same type of action.
 
As long as you don't bend the mandrel you should be able to use it again on the same type of action.
My question is if I got the steady perfectly centered...which I doubt. That would screw up the angle of the mandrel the next time I set it up unless I got it set identically... Maybe the tiny diffrenece in angle from setup to setup would be trivial enough to be irrelevant???
 
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