Guys, I am new here and assuming this is where I can ask construction questions. Preparing to build a new garage/workshop for myself. I have a couple of older lathes and mills inherited from my father. I am also planning on purchasing a larger new lathe and a larger new mill. My first question concerns the thickness of the concrete floor vs. support and vibration. After all is set I will paint the floor with a epoxy/polyurea finish. I am not comfortable with the idea of only 4" of concrete. I am also considering radiant floor heating, it gets very cold here during the winter. What should I be concerned about?
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Starting a new shop building
- Thread starter Roadhawg
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2013
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- 10,446
4" of concrete should be OK for any machines that we would be owning in a hobby shop.
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2020
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- 194
Regarding slab thickness: You say you are planning on purchasing a couple of "larger" machines. What does that mean? There are folks whose "hobby" machines weigh 6000 lbs and others for whom "larger" means 1000 lbs. Personally I'd probably go for 6", but it will also depend on how expensive concrete is in your area. Don't skimp on the prep - a well tamped gravel bed under the slab contributes to the strength. Do you think you might someday rent a forklift to deliver/position machines? The forklift may well be the heaviest thing the slab ever sees, much heavier than any of your tools.
Regarding radiant heat: can be very nice, but having tubing (or wires) running through your slab means you can't drill to bolt things down. If you go that way, take photos before the pour and try to mark things so if you ever find yourself needing to drill a hole you can at least reduce the risk of hitting a heating tube.
Regarding radiant heat: can be very nice, but having tubing (or wires) running through your slab means you can't drill to bolt things down. If you go that way, take photos before the pour and try to mark things so if you ever find yourself needing to drill a hole you can at least reduce the risk of hitting a heating tube.
The new lathe will be 3750 lbs and the new mill will be 3000 lbs. I use my compact track loader as a forklift. I am interested in acquiring older machines for restoration and they may be larger. I wasn't planning on bolting anything down - should I be thinking about that?
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2020
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There are a lot of options and I'm not an expert but some research would be wise. One option is to insulate the sides of the foundation to below the frost line instead of insulating under the slab. Some heat will escape thru the slab into the ground underneath, but the insulation prevents the heat from flowing sideways and being lost to the air. Depending on the size/shape of the slab you could use quite a bit less insulation, and you don't have to worry about the insulation crushing and causing slab cracks. (If you do insulate under the slab, make sure you get insulation that is intended for that purpose, with a specific pounds per square foot load rating.)Also I am thinking about insulating under the slab.
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2020
- Messages
- 194
What does the track loader weigh? If you are lifting something at the loader's limit (rear wheels about to lift), then the total weight of the loader and the load is all on the front wheels. That is your worst case situation. For example, a 5000 pound loader just managing to pick a 3750 pound lathe means 8750 pounds on the front axle. That is a heck of a concentrated load, equivalent to a 17,500 pound four-wheeled vehicle. I don't know how thick of a slab would normally be used for a garage for an 8 or 9 ton truck, but probably worth looking it up.The new lathe will be 3750 lbs and the new mill will be 3000 lbs. I use my compact track loader as a forklift. I am interested in acquiring older machines for restoration and they may be larger. I wasn't planning on bolting anything down - should I be thinking about that?
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 3,575
Welcome to H-M.
I own 60' x 80' x 20' eves red steel framed shop building. I didn't build it, so I have to take the previous owners word that the slab is 6" thick sitting on 2" of rigid foam insulation. The building is also equipped with an oil fired hydronic heating system.
After owning the building for more than 15 years, there are a few things I would be sure to do differently and/or pay attention to if I win a Lotto and decide to build a new one. Based on my experiences, I hope to be able to offer some opinions about your shop building.
Regarding the slab, site preparation is paramount. Compaction and dryness/drainage are critical. There is considerable high ground within a mile and I can see significant water seeping from rocks on my property. Water ingress hasn't been an acute problem in my building, however I don't know what measures/systems are under the slab to ensure drainage. If I was building a new one, I would certainly have a grid pattern of perforated drain pipe, under the insulation, connected to an external sump, so flow could be observed, and then routed to safe drainage.
What size shop are you planning? What energy source do you envision for your heating system?
I own 60' x 80' x 20' eves red steel framed shop building. I didn't build it, so I have to take the previous owners word that the slab is 6" thick sitting on 2" of rigid foam insulation. The building is also equipped with an oil fired hydronic heating system.
After owning the building for more than 15 years, there are a few things I would be sure to do differently and/or pay attention to if I win a Lotto and decide to build a new one. Based on my experiences, I hope to be able to offer some opinions about your shop building.
Regarding the slab, site preparation is paramount. Compaction and dryness/drainage are critical. There is considerable high ground within a mile and I can see significant water seeping from rocks on my property. Water ingress hasn't been an acute problem in my building, however I don't know what measures/systems are under the slab to ensure drainage. If I was building a new one, I would certainly have a grid pattern of perforated drain pipe, under the insulation, connected to an external sump, so flow could be observed, and then routed to safe drainage.
What size shop are you planning? What energy source do you envision for your heating system?