I could do without that annoying little hollow on the bottom of my Starrett Master level. I ALWAYS WEAR THICK COTTON GLOVES WHEN HANDLING MY LEVELS TO AVOID HEAT GETTING TRANSFERRED TO THEM. When setting the level across parallels on my long lathe,I always make sure I set the base of the level on exactly the same spots every time I move it. It is a good idea to mark 2 places with a marker on the side of the level,and always set the parallels there.
I also have the 12 inch" Starrett "Mechanic's level.(Mind you,I got these levels USED!) The Master is so sensitive it can be a bit of trouble ! I sometimes use the Mechanic's Level to get started,then use the Master level once I've gotten everything close. In reality,if you are careful about exactly where the bubble is,you can just use the Mechanic's Level and be done with it. You could just mark where the bubble is with a fine marker before you move the mechanic's level to the other end of the lathe.
There are simple techniques to get the bed of your lathe straight WITHOUT the use of a level at all. Maybe I'll post how to do that so everyone can find it.
Daryl: hopefully,the divot will not affect the accuracy of your level.