Standard Modern 16-60 Lathe chatter problems

danleereed said:
OK guys,
I took advice of a few of you and the repair guy at Leblond. I tightened the main bearings with the chuck off until I could spin it hard and it would not make a full turn. Buttoned up the top and put the chuck back on. This thing cuts nice now. I am still ordering new bearings for it, but I am good now until they go. And I'll have the spares here when/ if there are still issues with the old ones.

I'd like to say thanks to all of you who assisted or advised me while I was working out these issues. The advice was definitely a big help in getting me going in the right directions and give me options to look at to solve the problem.


*Handshakes All Around*

Thanks,
Dan Reed
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Bravo! Cudos to you for being persistent and not giving up. I'm sure you'll turn out some fine work now.
 
danleereed said:
OK guys,
I took advice of a few of you and the repair guy at Leblond. I tightened the main bearings with the chuck off until I could spin it hard and it would not make a full turn. Buttoned up the top and put the chuck back on. This thing cuts nice now. I am still ordering new bearings for it, but I am good now until they go. And I'll have the spares here when/ if there are still issues with the old ones.

I'd like to say thanks to all of you who assisted or advised me while I was working out these issues. The advice was definitely a big help in getting me going in the right directions and give me options to look at to solve the problem.


*Handshakes All Around*

Thanks,
Dan Reed
Click to expand...

Good job! Well done! It amazes me to hear some people say you need 0.003” or so clearance for proper adjustment of a metal lathe head stock spindle with Timken bearings? The word “pre-load” should be a big clue. You need to put a load on the static/at rest bearings. And not have clearance, expecting temperature gradients and coefficients of expansion to have an adjustment effect? Again, good job, you now have a “real” lathe up to any challenge...Good Luck
 
chips&more said:
Good job! Well done! It amazes me to hear some people say you need 0.003” or so clearance for proper adjustment of a metal lathe head stock spindle with Timken bearings? The word “pre-load” should be a big clue. You need to put a load on the static/at rest bearings. And not have clearance, expecting temperature gradients and coefficients of expansion to have an adjustment effect? Again, good job, you now have a “real” lathe up to any challenge...Good Luck
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If the above bolded comment was directed at my post I think I qualified my statement to leave no doubt that my response was in direct correlation to Harley-Davidson wheel bearings. They are indeed Timken brand bearings and are set up exactly as I stated. The manufactures' endplay range is .003 to .005 in this application. I went further to state

Exactly what I said:

If you can't find a book or more sage advice than I can give I'd feel good about setting it up like we do Timken bearings on H-Ds here. The spec calls for .003 - .005 endplay. I've always set them up @ .004 and they've seemed to like that for several decades. You can always run it in for a little while and see how warm it gets.

Hope this helps until someone more knowledgeable than me about this particular machine can pipe in though I don't believe that will damage your spindle or bearings in the least.
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Granted, your statement may not have been directed my way though I don't find this plausible as I'm the only one that stated those specs. I have no idea what vain your comment was made in but personally I see it as rather condescending. In retrospect I now have appreciation for the difference between Pre Load & End Play, so Thank You.

Glad I could amaze you.

Later...
 
Meant to post a pic of the good cut after I tightened it as recommended.

Now I'm looking into a sticking power feed lever. This is not something I can let go. Seems dangerous. When I disengage the power feed I have to tap the lever up and down to get it to release. Most times it does, but one time, earlier today I got to see my lathe take a .250 r cut when it went on into the shoulder. It dug in and kept spitting a fat chip. I don't want to do that again. Well, not by mistake anyways hah!

Dan

good finish.jpg
 
danleereed said:
Meant to post a pic of the good cut after I tightened it as recommended.

Now I'm looking into a sticking power feed lever. This is not something I can let go. Seems dangerous. When I disengage the power feed I have to tap the lever up and down to get it to release. Most times it does, but one time, earlier today I got to see my lathe take a .250 r cut when it went on into the shoulder. It dug in and kept spitting a fat chip. I don't want to do that again. Well, not by mistake anyways hah!

Dan
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Change the oil in the apron. That should help the sticking. If the lube is real thick you may need to open it up and clean it a bit. Probably takes ISO68 for lube.

P.S. 1018 doesn't finish very pretty like 4140 or similar.

Dave
 
Dave,
Good stuff. I put some Vectra#2 which is ISO68 as far as I can tell. The thing was empty. The issue with the feed lever sticking on has stopped. It took a little working it back and forth but after a minute or so it never locked up again. I tested it about 40 or 50 engagement and it never hung up once.

While filling it up, I kept watching the fill sight. Damn thing was clogged so I overfilled the apron gear box or what ever the name is. Its leaking out pretty good. Now the sight glass is being cleaned out as we speak. As far as I can tell this thing is ready for action now.

Thanks again,
Dan Reed
 
Good deal. I'm glad you got all your little issues straightened out.

I buy used machines mainly because I can't really afford new ones for the type of stuff I want to do. They all have "issues" when I get them. Most of the issues are minor, like unsticking sticky mechs and adjusting the gibs. It takes a while to get things straightened out to my liking, but it's well worth it. I just bought a couple of Nardini lathes from a school auction, The lathes have practically no wear on them, but they've seen a few crashes. LOL . It seems like even the shop teachers just didn't care. On both machines, There were tons of loose screws and loose gibs, etc... All the guards and panels were loose...just brutal, but slowly I went around and tightened everything up. The lead screws have about .005" backlash, it's like brand new except for the crash damage on the compound, and I can live with that, it's not bent, just a chunk missing off of 1 corner.

Hopefully you'll be as happy with your purchase, as I am with mine. :))

Marcel
 
There are no ugly puppies, even the ugly ones look beautiful after living with them for a while.
That is one nice lathe you have there and getting the bugs ironed out bring cheers to my heart,
another north american lathe saved.
My SM apron was full of swarf when I dissassembled it, a cleaning and lubrication made it work slick and precise.
I wish I had something that size, good find.
bb
 
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