Stand Alternatives for PM-728?

Aurelius

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Hey all,
I'm starting to thin about adding a mill to my shop and the PM-728 looks to be a great fit for my needs and my space.
However, I have read some less than complimentary reviews of the PM stand. I've used Husky work tables for most of my shop as they have a pretty good load rating, at least more than I've ever needed, and are (relatively) economical. Unfortunately, I don't have any fabrication ability, so building one of the fancy tubular steel ones I've seen here is out of the question.
What I wanted to know is whether anyone had other stand alternatives that I should be looking at?
Thanks!
 
Hi,

The 728 is 370lbs, so over 400lbs once you add a vise and workpiece. I'm not sure I'd trust that to a Husky work table, especially when you consider your loads won't be static.

I had an RF30 that I put onto a work table but it was one of the good old American welded benches and I still added a couple of layers of subfloor to the top.

If you can't weld up your own stand you could look for something surplus that would be up to the task. I'd look for at least 1.5" square tubing welded with supports. Last thing you want is the machine falling over on you while you're taking a heavy cut.

Lots of folks have made decent wooden stands, bolted 4x4's would probably suffice.

Whatever you do, try to make it a little larger than the machine so you can put accessories and work pieces next to the machine where they are handy.

I'm sure others will chime in here with their solutions, if you really want to use the Husky, post up a link so we can take a look at it.

Seriously though, check Craigslist or FB Marketplace for free or cheap old US built cabinets or worktables. If you were closer I have a bunch that are going out for scrap soon.

John
 
For inspiration, here's my lathe stand made completely from free cabinets. These were originally from a bank I think so extra heavy duty....


John
 
The 728 is 370lbs, so over 400lbs once you add a vise and workpiece. I'm not sure I'd trust that to a Husky work table, especially when you consider your loads won't be static.
I have my 1228 on this Husky 6' one that is rated 3000 lbs, and it's been fine.
As for the ones I found, I was thinking maybe something like one of these:
48 in. Adjustable Height Wood Top Workbench Table in Black (2000 lb capacity)
48 in. W x 24 in. L Black Metal and Wood Siding Heavy-Duty Adjustable Workbench Hardwood Workstation for Garage (2000 lb capacity)
4 ft. Adjustable Height Birch Top Workbench (3000 lb capacity)

or maybe this one:

ULine Welded Machine Table (3000 lb capacity)

I'm actually partial to the ULine but, with any of those, I need to make sure 24" depth is enough. Technically, I could bolt the ULine one to the floor, but I would have to talk with the wife before we go drilling into the foundation.

The other constraint I am dealing with is that my shop is in the basement of a 100+year old house so I have a Bilco door to the basement and a staircase inside. Either way, the maximum width I can fit is 27" or less to make it through the door frame.
 
I've ordered the Uline ones here at work and they are quite stout, close or equal to the older US ones we're scrapping out. I guess the Husky ones will work, I'm cheap so I always try to find something used/free if I can.

John
 
Get yourself one of these steel workbench leg packages for $175 and slap a maple top on it. Part# D2910. If money is no object a BuildPro welding table. I had this maple top steel leg workbench for years, then upgraded to a pair of 22x46 nitrided BuildPro's.

table.jpg
 
Get yourself one of these steel workbench leg packages for $175 and slap a maple top on it. Part# D2910. If money is no object a BuildPro welding table. I had this maple top steel leg workbench for years, then upgraded to a pair of 22x46 nitrided BuildPro's.
Not a welder and had never heard of BuildPro before. I see what you mean about money being no object.
I have been doing a bit more research and I think I've narrowed it down to either the one from Uline or one from BenchPro. If I go with the BenchPro, what top material would you guys suggest? The Formica is the cheapest, but the phenolic or the butcher block fell like they would hold up better. Thoughts?
 
Not a welder and had never heard of BuildPro before. I see what you mean about money being no object.
I have been doing a bit more research and I think I've narrowed it down to either the one from Uline or one from BenchPro. If I go with the BenchPro, what top material would you guys suggest? The Formica is the cheapest, but the phenolic or the butcher block fell like they would hold up better. Thoughts?
Personally I would avoid butcher block maple now that I think of it. Having owned several from Grizzly to John Boos in quality NONE are flat or will remain flat. Typically cupped. For plywood, void free euro is not a bad choice if finished with a penetrating sealer and it comes in thick dimensions. There's some nice hardwood faced cabinet ply but it's quite expensive.

You know...if you want indestructible at a low cost, oil/solvent resistant, non-stick, beat on it with a hammer...commercial kitchen cutting board. Tap Plastics carries it in stock at many thicknesses up to 1" plus and it's relatively inexpensive compared to other materials.
 
Yeah, that's why I was considering the phenolic resin top on the BenchPro.
My only concern is whether it can hold the weight. I sent them a message over the weekend asking about that so hopefully I will hear back early this week.
 
Those Bench Pros look nice, especially the cabinet models.

This might clean up good and provide storage underneath….


John
 
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