Square Pegs Into Round Holes

Very nice, Doc. 303 SS still has a machineability rating of 75% so while it is easier to machine that the other SS, it is still sort of hard to cut on a small lathe like that. I'd say you and your tool done good!!
 
here is a test of the 8° tool, and a unimat Vs. 304 stainless


the tool performed very well.
at about .4mm doc, the chips were peeling off!
 
Here is the latest brainstorm...
i'm attempting to design, print, and test my own 3/8" square deckel U2 collet, ala Ulma Doctor

i took the dimensions for a U2 collet and made the mock up in Tinkercad, then printed the prototype on the Ender5.

the design was close, but needed to be tweaked to fit better
IMG_3980.jpg

a second version was on the R&D block

IMG_3979.jpg

the deckel collet has a 20mm buttress thread
in my design, i single point threaded the collet end to 3/4"- 10tpi, as a close approximation
since the collet draw nut also has a buttress thread, i need to copy and thread a new draw nut

here are pictures of the progress until now!

IMG_3977.jpg IMG_3978.jpg

due to the 30% infill on the print, the collet threads are weak and interrupted.

i think i'll need to create a sleeve to adhere to the collet, then cut threads into the sleeve to make a better threaded area
 
Have you tried printing the threads? I don't know much about the Ender5 printer but if I setup my printer for extra fine prints, I could probably print those threads. At least get close enough that I could then chase them with a Die. Alternatively would be to set the infill to 100% for the top couple of inches of the print.
 
Mike, you just keep pushing boundaries and recommended uses for tools and materials?

Well all I can say is.....Keep it up Buddy!

....and please keep posting your (mis)adventures here.

-brino
 
Boswell said:
Have you tried printing the threads? I don't know much about the Ender5 printer but if I setup my printer for extra fine prints, I could probably print those threads. At least get close enough that I could then chase them with a Die. Alternatively would be to set the infill to 100% for the top couple of inches of the print.
Click to expand...
Thank you Boswell,
my CAD-Fu is very weak.
i use Tinkercad and i have not figured out all the nuances of the design process yet
i like your idea!
 
brino said:
Mike, you just keep pushing boundaries and recommended uses for tools and materials?

Well all I can say is.....Keep it up Buddy!

....and please keep posting your (mis)adventures here.

-brino
Click to expand...
Than you very much brino!
i'll keep posting, if you'll keep reading! :grin:
 
Are you printing this standing up (the print that is). you could just increase the number of perimeters (walls, loops, whatever your slicer calls them) so that you have solid material where you need it.
 
Those threads are so large I think they will work for sure if printed (with the part standing up). I printed a M10 hose barb for bench bleeding a brake cylinder and it worked great.
 
I forgot to mention that it's also possible to model the threads and have the printer make them for you. You may need to adjust your layer height to get the resolution you need.
 
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