South Bend 9 cross slide question

josef

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I have a South Bend 9A lathe built around 1951. It's one year older than me but generally in better condition. One of its faults is that I can't set the cross slide dial. I'd like to fix that. But when I try to take the cross slide crank off to get to the guts of the dial, it looks like there is some kind of something peened into the slot of the screw that I assume holds the crank on. See picture. cross-slide-crank.jpgAnybody know how the crank and dial are assembled on the shaft? Will I be sorry if I drill or grind off that peened section?
 
The threaded screw with the slot should come right off. I used a circlip pliers as a makeshift wrench to unscrew it. I also have a piece of scrap metal filed to give me two lugs to engage the slots. I can't quite remember, but I think the threads are normal, i.e. not left-handed, but proceed with caution. It's getting dark here now, but I will have a look at my SAB6 bits and see what it takes. I think the ends of the dial are done exactly the same.
I plan to upgrade my dials as per the stuff in these links. Possibly watching the videos will let you get a clue as to disassembly.

Links..
Large Dials Accessory for the South Bend Lathe

This is the "clamp-on" version which does not use the tube extension to avoid
interference with the cross slide extent. If he needs to unscrew it that far,
he removes the mod.
Link1
------------------------------------------------
New Dials for 1931 South Bend 11-inch lathe #84-A
This one happens to be for the 11 inch, but the dials seem the same as for the 9"
It does use the tube extension to avoid the interference.

Link2
----------------------------------------------------
Making Dials for your Compound Slide Table, XY table, Lathe, Mill, etc.

Link3
--------------------------------------------------------
New Dials for my 1931 South Bend 11-inch lathe #84-A
Link4
------------------------------------------------------
 
Last edited:
The peened part is not original, I'd remove the screw, and with a sharp tool, machine away the peened part CAREFULLY, this can be done by adjusting the cross slide gib tightly so that it can't be easily moved, and use the carriage and the compound rest to make the required movements.
 
There are no guts to get to.
It is just a sleeve with a set screw.
 
Nothing is peened.
the face of the cross slide nut is smooth/round.
you will have to make a slot tool, then grind a half moon in the center, this is what I did on my SB9.
it’s normal threads.
make sure the 2 slots fit the 2 grooves in the nut very accurately so you don’t bugger it.
it will then come off.
like Jim f says, the dial is just a sleeve with a set screw.
 
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Nothing is peened.
the face of the cross slide nut is smooth/round.
you will have to make a slot tool, then grind a half moon in the center, this is what I did on my SB9.
it’s normal threads.
make sure the 2 slots fit the 2 grooves in the nut very accurately so you don’t bugger it.
it will then come off.
like Jim f says, the dial is just a sleeve with a set screw.
There is a brass pin between the set screw and the screw,
 
Spray it with some BG In-Force, and in 10 min., she be smooth as silk.........
 
The threaded screw with the slot should come right off. I used a circlip pliers as a makeshift wrench to unscrew it. I also have a piece of scrap metal filed to give me two lugs to engage the slots. I can't quite remember, but I think the threads are normal, i.e. not left-handed, but proceed with caution. It's getting dark here now, but I will have a look at my SAB6 bits and see what it takes. I think the ends of the dial are done exactly the same.
I plan to upgrade my dials as per the stuff in these links. Possibly watching the videos will let you get a clue as to disassembly.

Links..
Large Dials Accessory for the South Bend Lathe

This is the "clamp-on" version which does not use the tube extension to avoid
interference with the cross slide extent. If he needs to unscrew it that far,
he removes the mod.
Link1
------------------------------------------------
New Dials for 1931 South Bend 11-inch lathe #84-A
This one happens to be for the 11 inch, but the dials seem the same as for the 9"
It does use the tub extension to avoid the interference.

Link2
----------------------------------------------------
Making Dials for your Compound Slide Table, XY table, Lathe, Mill, etc.

Link3
--------------------------------------------------------
New Dials for my 1931 South Bend 11-inch lathe #84-A
Link4
------------------------------------------------------
Thank you so much. I did get the "screw" which turns out to be a nut, off. It came off easily. But when I try to remove the crank it only moves a little bit and stops. I hesitate to use force. I do have the parts list and it shows the pin. I think that I should try to keep the pin from dragging across the threads, correct? Here's a pic with the screw/nut removed.
 

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Spray it with some BG In-Force, and in 10 min., she be smooth as silk.........
Not familiar with BG In-Force. The handle stops in a pretty solid way after moving maybe 1/32".
 
Any kind of liquid wrench, kroil or make yours own, 1/2 acetone, 1/2 ATF.
soak for a while, then maybe 2 screwdrivers, one each side of handle, prise it off.
the little round key way may be stuck.
resist the urge to use brute force. Yeah I know, easy to say.
the screw that adjusts the sleeve dial will have a small brass piece under the set screw (easy to lose this) so said screw doesn’t mar the shaft when setting the sleeve dial.
 
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