source (metric) keyed shaft to replace bent one

Edit: I am confused as to how a feed shaft "develops" a bow in it...
Well, I'm no expert but I have a few theories:

1) If the shaft was maybe something like cold rolled with forming skin tension or whatever you call it, then cutting the key slot down the whole length might allow stress relief & curl over time? Maybe 'good' shafts are post stabilized or start with different material? One would think it should be a natural bow, but in my case where it starts rubbing, its being constrained by the carriage worm bracket itself.

2) A bad worm/bracket design where the thrust force starts to erode the CI bracket by power traversing over time. If things get out of alignment, maybe puts wonky force to the shaft & gets distorted. You can see my fix which has yet to be trialed, milled out the bracket slightly & inserted a bronze wear ring. I have a better plan, but first need to get this resolved & lathe back together. (This is exactly what Keith Fenner remedied on his lathe too, but he silver soldered the ring on).

3) Some lathe mover slipped a strap under my bar when I wasn't looking, haha. (That explains the first problem I had with poor surface finish when lathe was new, I actually cant recall if shaft was straightened at the time or bent back. But that doesn't explain many years of happy turning so I suspect 1. or 2.

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Better solutions on modern lathes

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The worm and worm gear are very worn, and the bracket they fit in as well. It is a common thing on import lathes in the 12x36 to 14x40 range to have wear there. There is no lubrication for those parts unless you reach back there and do it manually. The half nuts as well. They need to be lubricated regularly with grease, or more regularly with oil. My Kent 13x40 came with a spare worm gear and spare half nuts, like as if maybe they knew they had a problem there???

I would straighten the feed shaft using a hydraulic press and end stands, along with a dial indicator. Just go really slowly, it will take many gentle pushes here and there to get it close. Rollers like Keith Fenner uses are optional...
 
Luckily my worm in great shape & same for mating brass pinion type gear it engages. The worm is hardened & the CI bracket took the brunt of it. If I had to replace these gears I'd be a lot grumpier, That's why my future enhancement will see a new mount to accommodate bronze bushings to help both shaft running & more importantly wear faces to see the worm thrust in either traverse direction. The press bend fix is the way I will go, wish me luck.
 
Luckily my worm in great shape & same for mating brass pinion type gear it engages. The worm is hardened & the CI bracket took the brunt of it. If I had to replace these gears I'd be a lot grumpier, That's why my future enhancement will see a new mount to accommodate bronze bushings to help both shaft running & more importantly wear faces to see the worm thrust in either traverse direction. The press bend fix is the way I will go, wish me luck.
That is great, Peter. The worm looked good in the pics, but the gear did not. Glad to hear it is good. I like your ideas for the mounting bracket, should last a good long time.
 
Gear is a funky tooth profile, but it looks good as best I can tell. I cannot see discernible round-over, wear or scrapes. The oil passage connecting the shaft hole was not de-burred & ejected with some mystery grit, but that's all remedied & turns very smooth.

Which brings up another question. What exactly are these gears called (the brass one I mean)? If I were to find close imperial pitch equivalents of the 2 gear set, but oriented to a common 3/4" OD power shaft with 3/16" keyway I would be home free with plentiful N-Am parts? My power feed specs would no longer match the nameplate, but who really cares as long as I have a suitable range. Its not like its threading or anything right? Viable idea?

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The gear definitely shows some wear in the pic, but it looks like it is still usable.
 
Hmm.. the photo really pick up metal finish anomalies the untrained eye doesn't distinguish as well in ordinary light. I was just looking at the tiny flat across each tooth being quite crisp & consistent tooth to tooth. But maybe you are looking at these dis-similar patches? I better get my magnifiers on & check more closely.

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Hmm.. the photo really pick up metal finish anomalies the untrained eye doesn't distinguish as well in ordinary light. I was just looking at the tiny flat across each tooth being quite crisp & consistent tooth to tooth. But maybe you are looking at these dis-similar patches? I better get my magnifiers on & check more closely.
The shoulders on the flanks of the teeth show the depth of wear into the teeth. It is moderate. The right side of the tooth to the right of the tooth circled on the left side of your annotated pic shows it best (if you can understand that!)
Edit: modified the pic to show what I am referring to:
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