Solid Tool Post Riser for my 13"x40" lathe

After all that work, I'd definitely go for the safe approach. At least a brand new high quality tap, new appropriate sized wrench and great care.
 
I got the block mounted and centered in the 4 jaw this morning. Then I ran into the next snag. I usually tap anything 1/2” and smaller.
Apparently I don’t own an internal threading tool that will fit into the hole. The smallest one I have will fit into a 3/4” hole.

So, do I buy a bigger tap handle, a solid carbide internal threading tool, or a 3/8” indexable steel tool? I need to think this through.
 
Have you tried the spring loaded guides. Will had a picture up of it in use but I don't remember what thread. I have also run the tail stock up to the tap handle to square it up(or dead center). As I turn the tap handle, I advance the tail stock arbor to keep a little bit of pressure till it starts.
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ChrisAttebery said:
I got the block mounted and centered in the 4 jaw this morning. Then I ran into the next snag. I usually tap anything 1/2” and smaller.
Apparently I don’t own an internal threading tool that will fit into the hole. The smallest one I have will fit into a 3/4” hole.

So, do I buy a bigger tap handle, a solid carbide internal threading tool, or a 3/8” indexable steel tool? I need to think this through.
Click to expand...
When I need to thread a hole too small for my bars I just make one to the specs I need from a hunk of O1. Turn the 60degree profile on the lathe then mill off a little more than half (for clearance). This gives you a front and back cutting edge. Take off the back cutting edge to get into a smaller hole. Heat cherry red and dunk in oil. I never temper. You can use round stock but I like square because it makes the zero rake angle easily repeatable. DSC_0774.JPGDSC_0794.JPG
 
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I have a couple of the Fisher micro tap guides. I didn’t think it would be strong enough for this tap size.

I wound up using my live center to keep the tap straight. I needed a ton of leverage to cut the threads so I used a pair of Crescent wrenches. One on the tap and one on a chuck jaw. It still took most of my strength to get ‘er done.

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impressive work, looking forward to hearing what you think once you've installed it and taken it for a test run.

Was the 5/8-11 tap a standard hand tap or a spiral point tap? Another thing to remember is that you can go up a drill size for less thread depth if you have a lot of threads engaged. 50% thread depth would be fine given the length of the bolt you'll be using.
 
That's a great idea. I'll have to add some to my next McMaster Carr order.

epanzella said:
When I need to thread a hole too small for my bars I just make one to the specs I need from a hunk of O1. Turn the 60degree profile on the lathe then mill off a little more than half (for clearance). This gives you a front and back cutting edge. Take off the back cutting edge to get into a smaller hole. Heat cherry red and dunk in oil. I never temper. You can use round stock but I like square because it make the zero rake angle easily repeatable.
Click to expand...
 
mattthemuppet2 said:
impressive work, looking forward to hearing what you think once you've installed it and taken it for a test run.

Was the 5/8-11 tap a standard hand tap or a spiral point tap? Another thing to remember is that you can go up a drill size for less thread depth if you have a lot of threads engaged. 50% thread depth would be fine given the length of the bolt you'll be using.
Click to expand...


Thanks Matt.

This was just a Irwin Hansen hand tap from Ace HW. As I was staining to get it to cut I kept thinking that a spiral point tap probably would have been a good purchase. I probably could have gone up one drill size, but I was lucky to find the 17/32" drill as it was. They didn't have a great selection. It should have 12 threads worth of engagement. I hope that will be enough to keep it from slipping. ;^)
 
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