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Small Shapers
- Thread starter HMF
- Start date
Hi Nelson.
I think it depends on why you want a shaper in the first place. I have a 7" Atlas that I bought for one purpose. Internal keyways. It does a fair job of that as long as you don't get too aggressive and learn to grind the tool. Also longer cuts requiring a long tool bar, say 7", requires that the work be placed too far out on the table and things get a little unstable for my liking. I also use it often for cleaning up rough stuff such as a torch cut before ruining a mill cutter.
I passed on the 16" Cincinnati that I really wanted because I intend to take my machines home before long and it's footprint and weight were a concern for me. If you have the room and can handle the weight I think that's the machine to have.
When I did only one keyway about once a year or so I used the old fashion method in the lathe. Turn the tool sideways in a boring bar and roll it back and forth by hand. Primitive and slow but it works.
Go ahead and get one anyway, they are a neat machine to have.
Doug F.
I think it depends on why you want a shaper in the first place. I have a 7" Atlas that I bought for one purpose. Internal keyways. It does a fair job of that as long as you don't get too aggressive and learn to grind the tool. Also longer cuts requiring a long tool bar, say 7", requires that the work be placed too far out on the table and things get a little unstable for my liking. I also use it often for cleaning up rough stuff such as a torch cut before ruining a mill cutter.
I passed on the 16" Cincinnati that I really wanted because I intend to take my machines home before long and it's footprint and weight were a concern for me. If you have the room and can handle the weight I think that's the machine to have.
When I did only one keyway about once a year or so I used the old fashion method in the lathe. Turn the tool sideways in a boring bar and roll it back and forth by hand. Primitive and slow but it works.
Go ahead and get one anyway, they are a neat machine to have.
Doug F.
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2011
- Messages
- 2,069
I was watching the posts on building a shaper and also considering making a small 'Armstrong' shaper (hand powered). Then a machinist friend posted on our classic motorcycle forum that he wanted to sell his 10" benchtop shaper.
I had to get rid of a workbench, build a new stand for the mini-mill and sell the mini-lathe to fit it in, but all of these things happened quickly and relatively painlessly. The bonus was that selling the mini-lathe almost covered the shaper and the 9 x 12 bandsaw that I had recently acquired.
It turns out that the shaper was a Lewis - produced as casting kits by a company from LA starting around 1934. It was very well built. Somebody had skills and access to good equipment. I think 10" will be a perfect size for a home shop.
I had to get rid of a workbench, build a new stand for the mini-mill and sell the mini-lathe to fit it in, but all of these things happened quickly and relatively painlessly. The bonus was that selling the mini-lathe almost covered the shaper and the 9 x 12 bandsaw that I had recently acquired.
It turns out that the shaper was a Lewis - produced as casting kits by a company from LA starting around 1934. It was very well built. Somebody had skills and access to good equipment. I think 10" will be a perfect size for a home shop.
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- Joined
- Sep 23, 2010
- Messages
- 619
I like my SBL 7" Shaper. But i would really like a 12" or so too...Bob
B
bvd1940
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WELLLLLLL I just purchased a 8 inch Logan after much research and availability. I hope I chose a good one as it has a big enough envelope for my use
hew:. It probably will need a bit of cleaning and tweaking + there is always tooling you find you cant get along without:biggrin: .
Just my 2cents worth whih aint worth much
hew:. It probably will need a bit of cleaning and tweaking + there is always tooling you find you cant get along without:biggrin: . Just my 2cents worth whih aint worth much
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2012
- Messages
- 25
I have a 7" Ammco that was built during WWII and still has the war ID plate on it. It is a fascinating machine to watch. That's the only reason necessary to have one. I've purchased some tooling to make what I need to cut falling block rifle actions but haven't finished it yet. Surfacing stuff with no attention is a nice feature of the shaper for sure.
1200rpm,
Use a 110v in 240v 3ph out VFD with a breaking resister and a momentary jog button programed in and drive
a 1/2hp 4 or 6pole 3ph motor. I set up my 7" South Bend that way with used motor and drive for about $100
It is amazeing what you can do 1 stroke at a time with a sharp tool.
Rick
Use a 110v in 240v 3ph out VFD with a breaking resister and a momentary jog button programed in and drive
a 1/2hp 4 or 6pole 3ph motor. I set up my 7" South Bend that way with used motor and drive for about $100
It is amazeing what you can do 1 stroke at a time with a sharp tool.
Rick
Most seem to think shapers are for removeing a lot of stock. Then over to a milling machine for the finish cuts.
My 7" South bend is very rigid. I have a hard time takeing another .001 cut with the ram moveing. Hard to
split a feed dial line with the dial in motion. With the jog button I can with a sharp tool do one cut moveing
the ram down feed .0005 Very handy when fitting 2 mateing parts togather. And the shaper will do it without
crossing mill cutter marks. A 1911 slide to frame fit but 10 times tighter and more true. Cutting a perfict razor
sharp trigger sear. All depends on what level you are working to.
Rick
My 7" South bend is very rigid. I have a hard time takeing another .001 cut with the ram moveing. Hard to
split a feed dial line with the dial in motion. With the jog button I can with a sharp tool do one cut moveing
the ram down feed .0005 Very handy when fitting 2 mateing parts togather. And the shaper will do it without
crossing mill cutter marks. A 1911 slide to frame fit but 10 times tighter and more true. Cutting a perfict razor
sharp trigger sear. All depends on what level you are working to.
Rick
The biggest advantage to a shaper is the tooling. The same tools you use on your lathe can be used on a shaper, no need to buy more expensive endmills like you need for a milling machine. Single point tools are easily sharpened, all you need is an inexpensive bench grinder. Endmills require more expensive and complicated cutter grinders to do the job properly. With the shaper odd shapes like dovetails or T-slots can be easily cut with simple homemade tooling, a milling machine requires more expensive and dedicated tooling to do the same thing.
Though shapers are slower than milling machines, they can save you a small fortune in tooling.
Sandro Di Filippo