Slowing Down My Drill Press !!!

[Dunc1]

Found a couple in old magazines (Google gets them):
Popular Mechanics, March 1942 "Removable Speed-Reducing Unit for Drill Press"
Popular Science, November 1965 "Drill-press drive gives wide speed selection"

The last one I have used successfully. I prefer it since you get serious speed reduction from the get-go.
I was able to drill several 1 inch diameter holes in 3/8 inch mild steel plate. For large holes get a drill
bit with flats ground on the shank; otherwise, you will only be "drilling" your chuck due to bit slippage!
I have no other info (aside from the .pdf).

 

[chip maker]

Found a couple in old magazines (Google gets them):
Popular Mechanics, March 1942 "Removable Speed-Reducing Unit for Drill Press"
Popular Science, November 1965 "Drill-press drive gives wide speed selection"

The last one I have used successfully. I prefer it since you get serious speed reduction from the get-go.
I was able to drill several 1 inch diameter holes in 3/8 inch mild steel plate. For large holes get a drill
bit with flats ground on the shank; otherwise, you will only be "drilling" your chuck due to bit slippage!
I have no other info (aside from the .pdf).

After looking at that pdf. that is what the update I did to my drill press accomplished as well. The only thing in that old photo is that they added the other pulley to a new arbor assy. After looking the newer setup does the same thing only a bit easier. it's really neat to see how even back than guys had many of the ideas that we come up with but just solved them in a different way with the means they had at that time. Guess they were also trying to save money but wanted to get a job done.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

OP, part #63, where it goes into the hole in the drill press, and pivots for tension adjustment, does it just go into a hole, or did you use some type of bushing or bearing?

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[ndnchf]

This is an old post, but i'm curious about the diameter of the plug that goes into the hole. I have an ancient power hacksaw that someone converted to electric, but the motor is too fast. I'm wondering if I could use these parts to reduce the speed. Also, what thickness is the belt - 3/8" or 1/2"? Thanks.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

here is my version.
I got the pulley from e bay a while back.
was going to wait til,l I got the belts,to show it,
But you can still tell everything, just needs the belts.
The slug goes into the post, and there is a step on the slug, that bottoms on the top of the post.
The slug is drilled off center to better center the pulley.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

This is an old post, but i'm curious about the diameter of the plug that goes into the hole. I have an ancient power hacksaw that someone converted to electric, but the motor is too fast. I'm wondering if I could use these parts to reduce the speed. Also, what thickness is the belt - 3/8" or 1/2"? Thanks.

I don't really think it's ideal.
I don't know what your set up and stand looks like, but I'd probably get 2 pillow blocks and some 5/8" drill rod, and about a 3" pulley at the motor, to about a 10" pulley at the one end of the jack shaft, with another 3" pulley at the other end of the jack shaft, to another 10" or larger at the Hacksaw.

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[Johnnybar]

This is an old post, but i'm curious about the diameter of the plug that goes into the hole. I have an ancient power hacksaw that someone converted to electric, but the motor is too fast. I'm wondering if I could use these parts to reduce the speed. Also, what thickness is the belt - 3/8" or 1/2"? Thanks.

Do you have a 1750 rpm motor currently?

 

[ndnchf]

Do you have a 1750 rpm motor currently?

Yes. ideally, I need about 700-800 rpm.

 

[ndnchf]

I don't really think it's ideal.
I don't know what your set up and stand looks like, but I'd probably get 2 pillow blocks and some 5/8" drill rod, and about a 3" pulley at the motor, to about a 10" pulley at the one end of the jack shaft, with another 3" pulley at the other end of the jack shaft, to another 10" or larger at the Hacksaw.

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I've considered a jackshaft set up, but space is limited the way the motor was added. I'd have to make major changes to make it work. The DP reducer is a more compact version of it, but it may not be robust enough. It currently has a 1750 rpm motor. Probably the best route would be to use a gearmotor to bring rpm down to around 700-800 rpm. I don't mean to hijack this thread, but here's a photo of what I'm dealing with.

 

[LsSix]

You might fabricate a sturdy bracket to be sandwiched between the motor bracket and its mounting point that would hold a 2 sheve pulley to the right of the motor (in your pic above) and get your reduction that way. It would keep the mechanicals out of the way without crowding everything near the flatbelt pulley. Use a screw to manually tension everything.

Personally I would also make up a table to go over the motor and pullies to support the back of the work and protect you and the mechanism while working.

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