Slitting saw arbor types

[ericc]

Hi. I am wondering about the performance of the Grizzly type slitting saw arbor (mandrel). It looks kind of strange. The shank end has a stepped cross section. Each step corresponds to a hole size for the slitting saw. Therefore, the one arbor can fit several different sizes of saws. The cap is just a hollow cross section piece. If the saw hole is small, this cap will bear down on a further out point radially than the shank end. Where it bears down is unsupported. Can this be a problem, especially with thin saws?

There is another style that I see on sale. It is like the one sold by Sierra. This is not a one-size-fits-all design. Instead the part that fits in the hole of the saw is on the cap end, and this locates in a hole bored in the shank end. This seems a lot more solid, since the place where it bears down is supported on both sides. I was wondering if this apparent improvement makes a difference.

 

[LucknowKen]

This one?

 

[Tony Wells]

The stepped cone is spring loaded and collapses into the top section of the arbor, so the cup/top of the arbor contacts the side of the slit saw at the same place as the top section on all sizes. I have one. It didn't run as true as I liked at first, so I took a skim cut on the arbor while held in a collet and it seemed to improve it a great deal.

 

[Bob Korves]

Making your own arbors is not very difficult and can achieve a better fit and concentricity than some of the cheap import ones have. Making them to fit a specific size saw hole just works better all around. It is also possible to make arbors with very thin caps, which can fit in closer to surfaces that would be in the way with taller caps.

 

[DSaul]

I have one of those Grizzly arbors and, after its first use, it is permanently attached to the saw that I mounted on it. The cutting action tightened the bolt to the point that destructive removal is the only option.

 

[stupoty]

I have one of those Grizzly arbors and, after its first use, it is permanently attached to the saw that I mounted on it. The cutting action tightened the bolt to the point that destructive removal is the only option.

Same happened to me.

I have an MT3 arbour like that , I recently realy wanted to get the slitting saw off and used a blow torch and a long lever on the allen bolt, it did eventualy come lose, I may have maret the MT3 a little holding it in a vice.

Stuart

 

[Tony Wells]

It is my practice to only cut in the direction that will loosen the retainer. I don't generally use power feed, so it hasn't been a problem slipping loose and getting jammed into the work while feeding. If, on the other hand, I am using a cutter with a keyslot, that is not an issue. And I have found that climbing will not allow the thinner saws to wander off to the side and get bound up or break. They will cut pretty straight. Naturally, as always when climb cutting, a little drag on the lock will help, as will a cautious hand on the wheel.

 

[kentuckyjim]

I am new to this but I do a lot of slitting with a spring loaded Grizzly holder and a very thin blade. The tubing I cut lengthwise for about a quarter inch. The tubing I cut is usually 1/4 inch in diameter or smaller.
I cut( almost never) six evenly spaced slits. I mount the workpiece in a collet in a 5c spin indexer. I usually make 3 passes cutting both sides on each pass. What is happening to make them unevenly spaced?


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[Tony Wells]

If I read you correctly, Jim, you are sawing across the "face" of the tubing? If the tubing is running true, which it almost has to be in a collet/spindexer, then perhaps your saw isn't quite on center. How are you setting the cutter height?

 

[chips&more]

I am new to this but I do a lot of slitting with a spring loaded Grizzly holder and a very thin blade. The tubing I cut lengthwise for about a quarter inch. The tubing I cut is usually 1/4 inch in diameter or smaller.
I cut( almost never) six evenly spaced slits. I mount the workpiece in a collet in a 5c spin indexer. I usually make 3 passes cutting both sides on each pass. What is happening to make them unevenly spaced?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You could cut one slot at a time. That would give you even spacing. But your slot entry alignment could still be an issue until you get it corrected…Good Luck, Dave.