Slitting Saw Arbor Recomendations

I was able to finish this project. It's running fairly true, but I'm still getting the little "tic, tic, tic" as it cuts which is what I was trying to avoid. It must be slightly non-concentric because the fit between the two pieces was near perfect and the blade fits on with no play that I can detect.

I guess it's the best I can expect from my mini-lathe.

BTW, cutting 1144 stressproof turned out to be a little more "stressful". It doesn't cut as easily or as cleanly as 1018 or 12L14.

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Mine cut with a tic, tic, tic, too.
This was discussed in another thread and seems common.
In my case measurements proved that the saw was not round and/or the bore was not centered.
It works anyway and I live with it.
 
Re the tic tic tic, I agree that blades are often out of round and/or not concentric with the bore. However, machining the arbor can also be tricky. After you've machined the first end, normally you have to turn it around and remount it. How you do that can leave the shaft out of concentricity with the business end. For example, most 3-jaw chucks have a few thous of error built into them. A collet or a 4-jaw chuck can be much better but still not "perfect".

How did you approach this?

Craig
 
After machining the 3/4" shank end, I turned it around and put it in a ER-32 collet to bore out the center to 1.000". I did measure a slight amount of runout of about 1 thou. I tried to remove it, but couldn't on my mini lathe.

I'm thinking this might be the source of the tic, tic, tic. Or, it could be the blade. Watching Joe Pi do this, he was spot on. Or course, his lathe cost 20X mine and probably weighed 50X more!
 
devils4ever said:
After machining the 3/4" shank end, I turned it around and put it in a ER-32 collet to bore out the center to 1.000". I did measure a slight amount of runout of about 1 thou. I tried to remove it, but couldn't on my mini lathe.

I'm thinking this might be the source of the tic, tic, tic. Or, it could be the blade. Watching Joe Pi do this, he was spot on. Or course, his lathe cost 20X mine and probably weighed 50X more!
Click to expand...
Honestly, unless you're spending an outrageous amount on slitting saws, you are going to get the tic-tic-tic. Every saw I've ever had has some runout, it is basically just the way they are! It gets even worse when you hone/sharpen the saws, unless your feed is sufficient a single tooth does all the work until it wears down and the next one starts cutting. This is a big part of the reason that you are supposed to cut full-depth with a slitting saw, it gives you a better chance of engaging multiple teeth.

Additionally that design is intrinsically going to introduce some runout. Since the shank and the part that engages the center of the saw are different parts, you're going to potentially be out ANY difference in diameter between the 'nut' side and the arbor side (of which you NEED at least a thou or two, or the arbor just wouldn't work!).
 
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