Slitting Saw Arbor Recomendations

devils4ever

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I have a slitting saw arbor that handles multiple size saws, but the runout is really bad.

So, I planned on making one for a 1" hole diameter saw with a 3/4" shank and bought some 1-1/2" 1144 stress-proof stock. I started making this. Now, I realize that it is just a little too big for my mini-lathe.

So, I think I'll have to buy one. I see RobbJack gets excellent reviews, but over $500. Then, there's Sierra American which goes for under $100, but gets less than stellar reviews. Can anyone recommend a good one with minimal runout for a decent price?
 
Just make yours to smaller dimensions.
 
Is the material too large for your lathe? How small is your lathe?

Don't bother buying an arbor, they are so easy to make, even with the smallest lathe that you'll be wasting your money. Blondi-hacks on youtube just made a really nice one.
 
I made the plug, but the main body is a bit long for my 7X16 mini lathe. I can't face it off without a steady rest. My steady rest is too small. I would need to get a larger one that handles 1-2" stock.

I'm using 1-1/2" stock for the 1" arbor with a 3/4" shank for the mill. I don't think I want to go smaller in diameter. I do have 1-1/4" stock, but that would leave only 1/8" support for the saw. Is that enough?

I'm following Joe Pi's YT video.
 
I made the plug, but the main body is a bit long for my 7X16 mini lathe. I can't face it off without a steady rest. My steady rest is too small. I would need to get a larger one that handles 1-2" stock.

I'm using 1-1/2" stock for the 1" arbor with a 3/4" shank for the mill. I don't think I want to go smaller in diameter. I do have 1-1/4" stock, but that would leave only 1/8" support for the saw. Is that enough?

I'm following Joe Pi's YT video.
1/4" would be just fine for support. Factory ones tend to be less than that.

How long are you trying to make this arbor? Depending on your mill, you likely want a reasonably short one anyway. Shank only needs to be about an inch or two, the mounting location is about an inch, plus maybe an inch or two for offseting from the spindle. So like 5"?

5" stickout on 1.5" stock shouldn't be a problem.

If it IS, you can do the shank side first (where the faxing op doesnt matter, then flip it and put the shank through your spindle (so you are cutting closer to the chuck). Sizeyour shank based on your spindle pass-through.
 
Yeah, I have to use my 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck to hold this until the shank is turned since my ER-32 collets aren't big enough to hold 1-1/2".
 
Turn the shank portion first in the 3 or 4 jaw then flip it around and do the remainder in a collet if you can
Otherwise, try to do the whole thing (minus the cap) in one operation and saw off the back stub
-Mark
 
I need to use the tail stock for support. I have no way of drilling a centered hole for this unless I use a steady rest which is too small for this diameter.
 
You don't need the steady to center drill the end.
 
I can't think of anything on an arbor that needs collets. Joe uses them because he has them and they can be a little faster to set up. Particularly for second ops. Just one way, turn the shank down to 3/4", switch to collets or 4-jaw, hold the turned shank. It should be small enough to fit through the spindle bore if the couple of mini's I looked at are similar to yours. Do the rest.

Just saw the new post. Someone else already mentioned that you don't need the tailstock for the amount of stickout here. Or is it causing problems? Get it as straight as possible, dial the speed down, and center drill it. It becomes centered when you cut it if it's off by a little, doesn't matter. If you want to make really sure it's all straight when you're done, flip and drill the other side and turn between centers. Now you can take it out and juggle it and it will still be straight when you put it back. I wouldn't, but I'm a lousy juggler and would probably hit myself on the head with it. :)
 
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