Slitting Saw Advice Requested

[Smudgemo]

Before I go and do something uninformed (or dumb), can I get a thumbs up or down on this operation? I need to cut this AL block roughly in half and I'm fixin' on using my slitting saw. The goal is to halve it, surface the inside faces, cut a vee in each, and use it (one of two) to clamp bicycle chain stays (that range from round to oval) for mitering to length. The arbor will get in the way, so I'll probably turn the block 90* after each cut. The actual size is unimportant as long as the two pieces are reasonably similar, so even if I have to face the insides quite a bit, it's going to be okay. Even if I finish with a hacksaw, I'd rather not use it for the entire cut.



I'm planning to first drill/tap the holes for the clamping bolts, then cut it in half.

For reference, this was my attempt at a strictly 80/20 miter fixture before having anything stouter than a drill press to use it on, and it was a bit of a failure as the lack of rigidity caused the saw to shear off teeth:



Luckily the bike turned out great in spite of it.

Thanks in advance.
-Ryan

 

[ScrapMetal]

No chance for a bandsaw? My worry would be that each time you turn the block 90 degrees for the next cut you'll run the risk of binding up the blade.

If I lacked a bandsaw (love my Chinese HF bs) I'd most likely make a shallow slot all the way around, as a guide and then use a hacksaw to halve it.

Someone will most likely have a better suggestion though,

-Ron

 

[brt]

No chance for a bandsaw? My worry would be that each time you turn the block 90 degrees for the next cut you'll run the risk of binding up the blade.

If I lacked a bandsaw (love my Chinese HF bs) I'd most likely make a shallow slot all the way around, as a guide and then use a hacksaw to halve it.

Someone will most likely have a better suggestion though,

-Ron

I agree with this 100%. I've been banging my head on the wall with slitting saws for a couple of months: feeds, speeds, setup, everything. I'm finding that I can cut the same or better quality on a vertical bandsaw, by hand (with a fence), faster than what I can do it on the mill (I have a largish IH CNC Square Column). Caveats:

1. I'm not an experienced machinist, so I'm probably messing something up - use large grains of salt to flavour my advice
2. I'm primarily focusing on Aluminum (6061 and 6063), so my experience might not apply in general, but is probably applicable in this specific case.

 

[swatson144]

2X I did some cutting with slitting saws before I got the HF hori/vert band saw. Now slitting is for screw slots.

Steve

 

[Smudgemo]

That’s what I needed to hear. It’s probably best to skip the slitting saw altogether. Besides, I had visions of wrecking a perfectly good saw, or a part that’s a quarter done. I do have a 4x6 bandsaw, but I got it used and have not had time to correct how it tends to cut at an angle (or barely stays on its flimsy stand.) It’s not a size-critical part, so I’ll be able to flip the part if the saw goes off-track.

What I should probably do in the near future is tackle the short-comings of that sort of saw, and make something a lot nicer out of it so I stop trying to make life harder in the shop.

Best regards,
Ryan

 

[Chucketn]

Ryan,
There is a great 4x6 bandsaw group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/4x6bandsaw/messages. They have a allignment/adjustment/tune up doc in their files that is great on curing crooked cuts. Also several ideas for mods to the flimsy stand. I built a frame with weels to stabolize mine.
On the other hand the 4x6 has limitations on cutting really small stuff. I used my 4x6 to cut 1/4" slices off a 2" brass bar end, but put the slices in the mill vise and used a slitting saw to cut it into 1/4"x1/2" pieces to make crank bearings. I made the arbor for the slitting saw myself, too!

Chuck

 

[SE18]

Ryan,
There is a great 4x6 bandsaw group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/4x6bandsaw/messages. They have a allignment/adjustment/tune up doc in their files that is great on curing crooked cuts. Also several ideas for mods to the flimsy stand. I built a frame with weels to stabolize mine.
On the other hand the 4x6 has limitations on cutting really small stuff. I used my 4x6 to cut 1/4" slices off a 2" brass bar end, but put the slices in the mill vise and used a slitting saw to cut it into 1/4"x1/2" pieces to make crank bearings. I made the arbor for the slitting saw myself, too!

Chuck

chuck, do you have photos or diagrams or a link or something on how you made the arbor for your slitting saw?

Thx

DaveV

 

[Smudgemo]

Thanks, Chuck. The 4x6 user group should be a great resource for improving the bandsaw. It's certainly hard to beat when properly set up.

 

[Chucketn]

chuck, do you have photos or diagrams or a link or something on how you made the arbor for your slitting saw?

Thx

DaveV

Dave, give me a few minutes and I'll post some pic's to photobucket. I found plans and build logs on the web, can't remember for sure where. I'll look through my links and see what I have.

Found the link I think I made mine from.
http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/slitting-saw-arbor.html

my version:
http://s571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/slitting saw arbor/

Chuck

edited to add link, edited again to correct link, edited again to add pic link

 

[Ray C]

Guys,

Slitting saws are a pain especially a big one like you're showing. The issue is that the arbor/shaft bends as you go. I only use them if I can't use the bandsaw due to positioning and geometry constraints.


Ray