Single Point Threading Issue - might be gearing?

darkzero said:
Does that wheel say Flair Chang Iron on it & did it come with the keyway machined in it already?
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Yes it is Flair Chang Iron. It did not have the keyway. I bored out the hub as it was a bit small and I broached the keyway. You are good!

Roy
 
royesses said:
Yes it is Flair Chang Iron. It did not have the keyway. I bored out the hub as it was a bit small and I broached the keyway. You are good!

Roy
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Thanks Roy. Oh no I was wondering cause I put the same handwheels on my mill & for the fine feed too. I had no idea Mcmaster sold them, I got mine from Grizzly when they used to sell them.

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darkzero said:
Thanks Roy. Oh no I was wondering cause I put the same handwheels on my mill & for the fine feed too. I had no idea Mcmaster sold them, I got mine from Grizzly when they used to sell them.

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I may be wrong about where I got it. Old timers disease. Sorry for the miss information about where I got it.
I just looked it up in my emails you are right on it was Grizzly:
(1) H3190 CAST IRON HANDWHEEL 8"

(1) H3205 CHROMED HANDLE 4" X 3/8"

You do some beautiful work Will. Your attention to detail is extraordinary.

Roy
 
royesses said:
I may be wrong about where I got it. Old timers disease. Sorry for the miss information about where I got it.
I just looked it up in my emails you are right on it was Grizzly:
(1) H3190 CAST IRON HANDWHEEL 8"

(1) H3205 CHROMED HANDLE 4" X 3/8"

You do some beautiful work Will. Your attention to detail is extraordinary.

Roy
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Haha, ah damn, I had thought I found a new source for them through you. But that's ok, I doubt the ones on my mill will ever need replacing.

Thanks Roy, I'm just a beginner hobbyist. :) Your handwheel came out great. I like the angle split shaft attachment or whatever it's called. I probably would have never thought of that. That's a great idea, reminds me of when I used to wrench on my bicycles (handlebar stem) when I was a kid.
 
darkzero said:
Haha, ah damn, I had thought I found a new source for them through you. But that's ok, I doubt the ones on my mill will ever need replacing.

Thanks Roy, I'm just a beginner hobbyist. :) Your handwheel came out great. I like the angle split shaft attachment or whatever it's called. I probably would have never thought of that. That's a great idea, reminds me of when I used to wrench on my bicycles (handbar stem) when I was a kid.
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Thanxs, Will. Yes Will, it is the same as a bicycle handle bar, I think it's called a stem quill. I looked up a patent and they had researched the best angle. They said 34° to 38° was the most efficient angle. It never slips in the spindle and instantly comes out when the through bolt is loosened.

Roy
 
royesses said:
I made one for my mini lathe a couple of years ago. I used a chromed wheel from McMaster-Carr and machined the rest out of 4130. I think the angle of the cut was 37°. I think I posted it in the what did you do today thread. Works great for threading.

Roy

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What is the overall length of the part that is inserted in the spindle bore? 5 inches? I have some stock now and am trying to figure out how it should fit. It looks like there is a shoulder that is machined to the spindle bore for registration, and the internal part is smaller in diameter. I don't have a sense of how critical the dimensions are. Any rules of thumb?
 
Tried 32TPI SPT on 0.5" 12L14 stock, that went ok, although the fine pitch threads did have some debris in them. Was able to clean out most of the debris with a file card.

With that under my belt, I did a practice run of single point threading 8-32 in O1. First I turned down the major diameter to 0.160". I then unplugged the lathe. I put in a lathe stop. Manually turning the chuck, (haven't built the spindle crank yet) cut threads until I hit the stop. I went 0.005" per cut. Threads are not showcase quality. Actually, they're horrible. The threads looked ok for most of the cutting. An 8-32 nut was my fit gauge.

While cutting, there was a slight jerk and a pop. Later on I found that the tip of the HSS tool bit had chipped off. Is this a sign of work hardening of the O1, or just a latent fault in the tool bit? Will have to regrind the tool. Even so, the nut fits and threads fully to the shoulder. The threads are kind of loose fitting, I assume that is because I cut too deep. (I guess I didn't calculate out the cosine factor out correctly.) It was an interesting exercise (manually spinning the chuck with my hand), but a crank is necessary if I'm ever going to do hand cutting again.

Pictures to follow. Have to go take them.
 
Did you grind a tiny flat at the tip of your tool after you ground it? If you don't, that sharp tip will fracture right off. You only need a tiny flat, maybe 1/64" across, but that will allow you to cut threads in most materials without any issues.
 
mikey said:
Did you grind a tiny flat at the tip of your tool after you ground it? If you don't, that sharp tip will fracture right off. You only need a tiny flat, maybe 1/64" across, but that will allow you to cut threads in most materials without any issues.
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I didn't grind a flat. Guess that's what happened. What angle is the flat relative to the top surface of the tool? Or is it along the whole edge? Hmm, don't know the proper terminology to describe this.
 
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