Simple threading job turned complex

frankoamerican

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So my friend asked me to make him an adapter for his crank-powered hand drill so that it would hold a larger chuck. Simple job, right?
The adapter had to screw onto the threaded portion that held the original chuck and then hold the larger chuck that had a thread of 1/2"x20TPI. I measured the thread on the drill and found it to be 3/8X24 but an adapter with that thread would not fit. I remeasured and found it to be an M10x1.0 thread. Nope. That didn't fit either.
I need some mentoring here. Any volunteers willing to share their thoughts and wisdom? Thank you in advance.
 
3/8-24 and 1/2-20 are common threads for hand held drills and chucks.. How old is the drill and who and where manufactured?
 
If it is an egg beater drill it may date from the time when manufacturers used special threads. Lots of luck. Check again with your thread gauge. It might be 1 or 2 threads different than what you think the gauge indicted. Use magnification when checking the pitch.
 
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Can you instead make an adapter that goes _INTO_ the original chuck?
Basically a short pin with a reduced cylindrical shank on one end and a 1/2"-20 thread on the other end.
This way you don't need to figure out and try to re-create the unknown thread.

-brino
 
3/8-24 and 1/2-20 are common threads for hand held drills and chucks.. How old is the drill and who and where manufactured?
Unknown for origin and age. :(
Agreed with the threads above as well as age. I have several connections that are almost but not quite a "standard" thread. Among them are a couple of "egg-beater" manual drills. I have had to replace the chuck on one, it was smashed up pretty bad. What I did was use a hex drive chuck, unscrewed the drive bit, and rethreaded the drill. It was smaller that your's, 1/4 chuck with 1/4-20 thread. The original thread was a little larger than 1/4 inch but less than 5/16 or 8mm. Since it was very old, I suspect it was a machine screw thread, Nr 15 or Nr 16. In which case, the TPI could be anywhere around a standard.

Converting a "brace" from 2 point to 3 point grip was a little more difficult. I couldn't fit it to the lathe for rethreading. Did it with a die and very careful alignment. That one got a 3/8 chuck because that was what I had handy. I wouldn't want to drive a 3/8 drill with a brace but have that capacity should the need arise. On very old equipment, machine screw threads were often used. Further, there were "specialty" threads that were used in some areas. It is not known to me, but a 3/8-22 thread is certainly plausable.

Prior to WW-2, British and American threads differed on several points. The most notable was "Whitworth", having 55 degree threads versus USS or SAE having 60 degree. In that particular case, the threads would match American threads but were not interchangable. This difference was resolved in the '50s, sorta. In the mid-'70s, I crossed paths with a Norton motorcycle manufactured in the late '60s that had a mix of Unified threads and Whitworth. "Standard" wrenches would fit, but "standard" bolts wouldn't. It is rare these days to cross Whitworth, but for older equipment, they very well could be used.

I apologize for getting so wound up. But often a thought drags up old memories. I am not particularly fond of Norton or BSA so haven't thought about them for years. The BSA 442 was a low speed single that would shake your teeth out. But the memories came up here. The solution to your problem might well be to run a die down the thread to convert from Whitworth to Unified. The pitch would be aligned but the threads wouldn't mate. I'm not saying that is the absolute solution, but is something to consider.

.
 
Can you instead make an adapter that goes _INTO_ the original chuck?
Basically a short pin with a reduced cylindrical shank on one end and a 1/2"-20 thread on the other end.
This way you don't need to figure out and try to re-create the unknown thread.

-brino
I would do so only if the recipient promised not to reveal my identity.
The solution to your problem might well be to run a die down the thread to convert from Whitworth to Unified. The pitch would be aligned but the threads wouldn't mate. I'm not saying that is the absolute solution, but is something to consider.

.
This may be the simplest solution. However, the OEM chuck may or may not fit afterwards, depending on how much materual was removed in the rethreading process.
 
Either way, you sure have a conundrum!

I think I'd make a single 55 degree gauge point and use a loupe or other high magnifier to verify/dismiss Whitworth. This will get you some more knowledge without any risk.

Use a back-light and magnifier with your thread gauges and I'm sure you will see light leakage around everything you try. it is POSSIBLE that this is a custom thread. Companies in the 50s did this a lot to make their designs proprietary.
 
I think I read somewhere that in the olden days 1/4" alone had over a dozen thread types besides the common 1/4-20 and 28 ones
-M
 
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