Show us your 4x6 Bandsaw Modifications!

If you put a spacer between the moveable jaw and the nut, the load will be transferred to the table instead of relying on the bolt. It will strip. I found that on a $50 CL find.
 
Guys I made myself this fixture that mounts in the saw vice to allow sawing short stock. I’ve use it on both round and square stock. It has become extremely useful. Here is the video


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Nothing groundbreaking, but for truly effortless parking try in-line skate wheels. Verrry quiet...

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-frank
 
Ed ke6bnl said:
I can not believe some of the great Ideas you people have come up with. I made this shelf for the bandsaw because I can remove it and use it on my bigger bandsaw also. Has worked great. I want to make the extended jaw next and the trash shoot to collect the trash cut offs.
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Hi, ED: It's a great job you've done to the vertical table. With this design lots of people recommend. Would you please share with us your design thinking? we're bandsaw maker and would like to study about the new design of 5"x6", what is the size and thickness of this table? and why you choose that size? Our team want to study it more, and it will be appreciate if you can share with us more. thank you!
 
Nelson said:
Bandsaw table and fence.

The 6 x 4 bandsaw is supplied with a table for use with the bandsaw arm in the vertical position. There are two problems with this table. Firstly it is a flimsy piece of sheet steel and secondly it is fiddly to assemble onto the saw. Furthermore, once it is fitted to the saw then the saw can only be used in the vertical position. It must be removed from the saw to revert to the more normal horizontal sawing. This is not very convenient.

The table described here can be left permanently on the bandsaw. It is hinged at the attachment point so that it can be flipped out of the way for normal horizontal sawing. The table is 150 mm square and bolts onto the blade guide block in exactly the same way as the original table.

This shows the saw in the vertical position but with the table flipped back. The table is made from a piece of 6 x 150 x 150 mm steel plate. The attachment plate is a piece of 6 x 75 x 100 mm plate and the two M6 countersunk screws that secure it to the blade guide block can be clearly seen in the photo.The hinge is made by drilling 3 mm holes in the edge of the attachment plate. The two smaller blocks either side of the attachment plate are 6 x 25 x 25 mm steel with similar 3 mm holes in the edge, into which hardened steel pins are fixed with epoxy resin. The hinge edge of the attachment plate must be rounded ( a simple filing job) to permit the table to swing about the pivot point.

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This photo shows the saw in the horizontal position. The flipped up table does not interfere with the operation of the saw in the horizontal mode.

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Having the table permanently mounted means that it is available for instant use. This convenience means that it is actually used quite often whereas if I had to fix and remove the table each time it would probably be quicker to use a hacksaw. It is particularly useful for removing material prior to milling or for cutting a long strip of metal along the length.
Bandsaw table fence.

This fence is designed to clamp in the edges of the bandsaw table and provides a guide for material being cut.

This shows the working face of the guide. It is made from a length of 25 x 25 x 3 mm steel angle. The two black pillars are 12 mm square hot rolled steel. These are pivoted on the steel angle. Between the steel bars at the top is a length of 10 mm steel bar which is threaded M6 at both ends. The thread runs through a clearance hole on the left hand side and is free to rotate. There are two nuts locked together to retain the bar loosely to the pillar. On the right hand side the pillar in threaded M6. If the bar is rotated clockwise then the two pillars are forced apart at the top and at the bottom the pillar ends move closer together as the bars pivot around the two pivot points, clamping the assembly firmly to the saw table. Conversely, turning the bar anti-clockwise will relase the fence.

Actually, the threads are not formed on the 10 mm bar. The bar is bored out 5 mm at both ends and then tapped M6. On the left hand side a piece of M6 studding is screwed in with some Loctite on the thread. On the right hand side, a 6 mm hex head screw is screwed through the pillar and then screwed and Loctited into the bar. This provides the hex head on the right hand side of the bar that is used to turn the bar.


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This shows the other side of the fence. The two pivot points are the two socket head screws on each pillar.

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The clamping arrangement for the fence is crude but very effective. Once tightened onto the table it is very rigidly attached. It is very simple and quick to attach and remove from the table.

The fence increases the usefulness of the saw table since it is easy then to make long straight cuts.

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Hi, Nelson: I review this table and fence, it really good modification you've done here. May I know why does the table size design in 6 x 150 x 150 mm? any special reason? please let me know, we're bandsaw maker from Taiwan and would like to study more new idea from real user.
What is your job? are you an Engineer? or home user? please share with us, tks!
 
Some great ideas in here. I just did the hinged table mod and the extended movable jaw with jack screw.

Why is this thread stickied in Misc. Antique and Vintage Machinery instead of Horizontal Saws & Bandsaws or Harbor Freight?
 
MrWhoopee said:
Why is this thread stickied in Misc. Antique and Vintage Machinery instead of Horizontal Saws & Bandsaws or Harbor Freight?
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That is a darn good question and suggestion all gift wrapped for me to answer! Thanks! I'll move this to the generic forum Horizontal Saws & Bandsaws. Probably will leave it as a sticky for now.
 
Sitting on Blocks Racing said:
Here my Hot Rod Saw stand. Dimple die reinforcement plate (made my own dimple dies) and a set of DOHC cams bracing the back vertical.
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Needed an out feed roller. So out to the scrap pile. S10 driveshaft, HHR brake drum and an adjustable roller made from scrap steel, al rod and a suspension bolt.
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Hi,We're bandsaw maker from Taiwan, we checked a lot of home user suggest us to add a wheel for 5x6 saw, so we did some of UOTE="Sitting on Blocks Racing, post: 557614, member: 35499"]

Here my Hot Rod Saw stand. Dimple die reinforcement plate (made my own dimple dies) and a set of DOHC cams bracing the back vertical.







Needed an out feed roller. So out to the scrap pile. S10 driveshaft, HHR brake drum and an adjustable roller made from scrap steel, al rod and a suspension bolt.



[/QUOTE]

Hi,We're bandsaw maker from Taiwan, we checked a lot of home user suggest us to add a wheel for 5x6 saw, so we did some of search, we found there is a wheel unit at your saw and would like to ask you some of question:
1. What is the purpose for you to have this wheel?
2. Is it necessary for you? why?
3. What environment you put this machine while cutting? does it relate to the wheel? I mean if you need to cut something, will you move your saw to outdoor?
4. What will be the recommend wheel size or design by your opinion?
5. Does those wheels will be the first priority for you to make decision when you want to buy a saw? why?
6. What is your job? a home user? please share with us any relate to the wheel set, thanks
 
francist said:
Nothing groundbreaking, but for truly effortless parking try in-line skate wheels. Verrry quiet...

View attachment 281780

-frank
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Hi,
Never through about the in-line skate wheels will become one of useful design for the saw machine. We're saw maker from Taiwan, and we're here to search for new design for next new product, lots of people suggest us to add a wheel on the machine, we have some question want to ask you:
1. What is the purpose for you to have this wheel?
2. Is it necessary for you? why?
3. What environment you put this machine while cutting? does it relate to the wheel? I mean if you need to cut something, will you move your saw to outdoor?
4. What will be the recommend wheel size or design by your opinion?
5. Does those wheels will be the first priority for you to make decision when you want to buy a saw? why?
6. What is your job? a home user? please share with us any relate to the wheel set, thanks
7. You talking about "very quite" with these wheels, is this necessary for you? why?
 
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