should I convert these?

Pontiac Freak said:
It will bind any time during the cut. What is the "set" you are referring to?
Click to expand...

Set refers to the teeth being offset in and out from the wall of the tool. This creates relief above the cutting edge and allows more room for chip evacuation. With the straight teeth of your cutters the area behind the teeth will load up and when the chips have nowhere to go they will bind between the part and the side of the cutter.

For deep drilling like you are attempting I agree with Wreck Wreck on drilling some clearance holes. That and taking small step downs with clearing the groove in-between should make a big difference.
 
I like he idea of a weldon (kd4gij,) holder, add a flat.. I notice that the teeth are really beefy. So that would definitely take a lot of torque to cut. Not a narrow kerf cutter. So thicker means more power. And that also means its grabbing more. Which means you have to stop that torque from releasing in the collet. I don't think you can w/o a flat... On wood yes, on metal NO. I hope you are cutting a hole first for the center. There's no cutting going on there.
 
To the issue of binding, if Pontiac Freak mics the cutter body diameter (ID & OD) I think he'll find a very slight taper (max at the teeth). There is no "set".

To the issue of lubricant, I would use a pipe threading lubricant by RIGID, or competitor, in this application (slow speed, mild steel).
 
Trying to hole saw a 2-9/16" hole through an inch thick piece of steel just sounds like a bad idea to me. It's the wrong tool for the job. If you have a Bridgeport, why wouldn't you drill a hole and work your way up to your biggest drill bit, then bore it to size with a boring head? It seems like it would be faster, easier, safer, and give better results.

GG
 
Slipping protects your machine so wait...

How are you feeding?

If by the pull down like a drill press then too much feed means too much power and the collet is exceeded and slips which is better than breaking something.

Use the hand wheel for fine feed and be sure click spring is tight or put up pressure with drill press style feed so it cannot grab.

One rate the "tool" within the limits of the machine and you should be fine.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
GarageGuy said:
Trying to hole saw a 2-9/16" hole through an inch thick piece of steel just sounds like a bad idea to me. It's the wrong tool for the job. If you have a Bridgeport, why wouldn't you drill a hole and work your way up to your biggest drill bit, then bore it to size with a boring head? It seems like it would be faster, easier, safer, and give better results.

GG
Click to expand...
Not much different than using an annular cutter. Is it.
 
A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.
Img_1921.jpg


I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.
Img_7597_zpscb8b5dd7.jpg


Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544

Hougen-annular-cutter-features.jpg
 
Most cutters like these don't really use a set , what they do is grind different angles on some of the teeth . Like slitting saws , some have side cutter and some straight teeth with no set at all. More then anything else I think his feed rate is to fast or hard , also I would recommend cutting oil not tap fluids. If you were cutting hard stainless like 316 I'd use Angkor lube.
 
I would cut 3 flats on the shank and use a drill chuck (not keyless) and attempt that but as others have noted if you spin the drill chuck in the spindle then you could damage your mill. make sure you are cutting some and backing out and brushing away the chips and cutting some more. there are premade hex arbors for holesaws that don't slip. they get so tight on the arbor that it is hard to unscrew them but they don't slip. bill
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top