Sheldon Lathe Identification

[4GSR]

Here's a couple pictures of mine without the gib screw installed. It does have a very thin section to it. The gib is steel, so the most you will do is bend it over.
Something you can try, take the gib screw and put it in a bind backing the gib out. Then take a brass bar and give the lower slide item 19 a good blow. If it doesn't move, see if the gib screw will back out some more and give it another blow with the brass bar. It may take a few tries, it should come loose. Make sure to take the feed screw out and I assume you have done this. And if there's room to get the cross feed nut out do that too. At least remove the bolt item 31. Ken

 

[BSchulz]

Post a picture or two. Sounds like someone got the gib jam in there too good.

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here are 2 pics of the

Post a picture or two. Sounds like someone got the gib jam in there too good.

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here are both ends of the

Here's a couple pictures of mine without the gib screw installed. It does have a very thin section to it. The gib is steel, so the most you will do is bend it over.
Something you can try, take the gib screw and put it in a bind backing the gib out. Then take a brass bar and give the lower slide item 19 a good blow. If it doesn't move, see if the gib screw will back out some more and give it another blow with the brass bar. It may take a few tries, it should come loose. Make sure to take the feed screw out and I assume you have done this. And if there's room to get the cross feed nut out do that too. At least remove the bolt item 31. Ken

here are pic's of both ends of the gib screw. i gave not removed the screw, but the bolt holding the screw nut is loose. in the second image i was thinking of taking a small roll pin punch and try to tap on the gib to see if i can drive it bakk to loosen it up

 

[4GSR]

If you take a pin punch and try to drive the gib out, I don't think it will work if the gib is really that tight. The pin punch will mushroom the small end of the gib making it even more difficult to remove. First take the gib screw out on the small end. Take a piece rectangular flat bar material to drive out the gib. May work, may not. Again, put a bind on the gib screw on the big end trying to remove. AS you bang on the small end, put more binding on the gib screw, if it can be tighten more. Last resort, put the compound slide up on a press and attempt to push the gib loose. I've never had to do that, let hope you don't either! Worse comes to worse, I have access to cast iron to make a new compound slide if needed. It's a lot of work making one!
Ken

 

[BSchulz]

here are 2 pics of the

here are both ends of the

here are pic's of both ends of the gib screw. i gave not removed the screw, but the bolt holding the screw nut is loose. in the second image i was thinking of taking a small roll pin punch and try to tap on the gib to see if i can drive it bakk to loosen it up

View attachment 233588 View attachment 233589

Took an old chisel and blunted it and ground the sides to fit the full length of the Gib and gave it several good wacks and boom if fell out...... needless to say both gib screws were broke and a faif amount of spalling in the ways. apparently someone knew that the screws were broke and drive in the gib so it wouldnt move. got the adjusting side screw removed now have to work on the locking side. Have an old atlas lathe that needs much tlc but was able to make 2 new gib screws..... Should be good to go further into the compound now......

 

[4GSR]

What a shame! for some one to do that to a lathe! They should be shot at sundown for doing that!
Glad you got it apart. Funny, I'm in the process of putting my compound back together, too. Just like yours. I'm missing a gib screw, too! Not sure if I will make another or leave it as is for now. I generally leave the gib snug to tight so the compound doesn't move around when cutting. I'm fixing to add some ball oilers to the top so the slide can be oiled as well as the screw and nut. Ken

 

[BSchulz]

Took an old chisel and blunted it and ground the sides to fit the full length of the Gib and gave it several good wacks and boom if fell out...... needless to say both gib screws were broke and a faif amount of spalling in the ways. apparently someone knew that the screws were broke and drive in the gib so it wouldnt move. got the adjusting side screw removed now have to work on the locking side. Have an old atlas lathe that needs much tlc but was able to make 2 new gib screws..... Should be good to go further into the compound now......

i used a 5/16" X1-1/2" set screw. turned down and rethreaded it for 1/4-20 then cut a straight slot in the top for using a screwdriver to adjust. i had to cut the height of the screw head down so there was very little hex left so it dowsn't seem to effect the ability to tighten/loosen the screw. Also have another question. i have a fair amount of slack in the adjusting screw. there is a retainer in the part of the screw that seems to hold the screw in place, but it also seems to contribute to the amount that the screw can move in either direction before it actually moves the compound. does that ring come off and release the screw and or can it be tightened so that there is not so much slack....... about 3/16" I have tapped and pried at itn but dow't want to damage the area or screw. I can not see a split line between the ring and screw. there may be one there, but it is in a tough spot to see.

 

[4GSR]

Here are a couple of pictures of the parts that make up the feed screw assy.

The large collar is threaded on to the compound top. There is a shallow hole for a spanner wrench if you have on. I usually take a right size punch and put in the hole to get the leverage to break it loose. They are not generally tight but could be. Channel locks work too, but will leave jaw marks you have to deal with.

 

[BSchulz]

Wow Thanks Never in a million years would i have thought that the piece that holds the screw all in one place was threaded..... i did not see the split line until i used a scratch awl to find it. thanks.

next i am moving on to the Apron. if i read the prints correctly there are 3 allen head bolts that hold the apron to the compound. My question is How does the lead screw get disengaged from the screw. do you have to remove the clutch and jaws first?

 

[4GSR]

Wow Thanks Never in a million years would i have thought that the piece that holds the screw all in one place was threaded..... i did not see the split line until i used a scratch awl to find it. thanks.

next i am moving on to the Apron. if i read the prints correctly there are 3 allen head bolts that hold the apron to the compound. My question is How does the lead screw get disengaged from the screw. do you have to remove the clutch and jaws first?

Yes, there's three cap screws holding the apron onto the saddle.

To get the leadscrew off. Look at where it connects to the QCGB. There is a tapered pin holding the leadscrew on. Try to figure out which end is the smaller end and attempt to drive it out. A suggestion is to drill into the pin about 1/8", this will give you a place for your punch to seat in and help driving it out. It may or maynot come loose. Both of my lathes, I've had to drill them out most of the way out. And I'm not very good to keeping the drill bit in perfect alignment and it always goes off center. Once you get the pin out, pry the leadscrew off of the QCGB. The leadscrew pulls out from the tail end of the bed. Once its out of the way, then you can pull the apron. The apron is heavy, so block it up a little so you can get control of it when it lets go. Then the fun begins removing the gears and stuff from the apron. And I'm sure your apron is nasty like mine was, maybe in a different way. There's a couple of gears that will give you havic getting them out. Don't beat on anything too much! Remember, If you break something, this stuff is untainable at any reasonable price! Ken

 

[BSchulz]

Here is the link to the Operation Manual.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/reso...s-manual-for-15-precision-sheldon-lathe.3184/

If you ever need drawings to any of the parts in the apron. I have reversed engineered and drawn up every part in the apron. Let me know. Too many to up load here. They are loaded on Sheldon Lathe 2 group on Yahoo if for some reason I'm no longer around.

Ken

BTW-If you haven't serviced the apron, I advise you drop the apron and give it a good cleaning and make repairs where needed.

I dropped it and you are right. There was supposed to be oil in that gearbox??????. I don't think sludge and the traverse gear running in that sludge pocket qualifies as oil. I had to remove the lead screw with the apron as I am unable to get it out of the gearbox. I am heeding your advice and not trying to force something I don't know what's holding it in there. When I removed the split pin from the lead screw, the screw came out from the drive easily but when I tried to remove it from the apron it is stuck and I can not move it in either direction. It is not bound and freely moves back and forth about 1-1/2" but will not come completely out of the center (worm gear i think). I have attached a couple of pictures. I removed the set screws that are on either side of the opening and believe there is something holding the worm gear and or something that is stopping the screw from coming out.

Also in the 3rd picture the rack pinion is missing 3 teath. Fortunately not all in a row but it does/should present a problem when the power feed is engauged as it will probably bind and or strip out something else. I believe it is part #22 10756. Any idea where I might find the gear and shaft. Also it appears that most of the brass bearings have a lot of end play and will need to be replaced..... could be made if I had a functional lathe....... but oh ya I removed the apron....... Any suggestions where/if these parts are available?