I have mistakenly feed on the forward stroke , you can get away with it sometimes but if you get in tough to machine steel and the cut gets progressively larger as stroke continues you can get into trouble real quick. On a little shaper I want everything singing like a sewing machine, seems like all the little machines were built to a price point and there are weak links, I sure don't want to bust one up for some foolish move. In my experience on the few machines I have been around while operating you want to hear the ratchet sound on forward stroke and the silence on return stroke. When machine is running fast sometimes its hard to differentiate. To ease my confused state I have taken a dial indicator on a Noga holder and set up to see table advancement to make sure I got it right.
cheers
michael
thank you very much for the information and your recommendation.
your help dramatically improved the surface finish. :eagerness:

I think I've heard of cutting on the pull stroke when doing key ways. And then it was cutting on the top of the bore. Haven't tried it.
Greg

Thanks Greg, for reading and commenting- i haven't tried it either :courage:
maybe an upcoming project???

i saw stefan gotswinter on youtube using the pull stroke, but as Bob korves mentioned earlier.
the clapper is hinged at the bottom,
instead of at the (conventional) top of the clapper, when you use the pull stroke.
 
here is a video of the final finish cuts on the carbide lathe tool mod
i spared the audience the sound of my voice and let the shaper do the talking
enjoy!


the operation was a success and the patient lived!
 
Nice surface finish. Wish mine ran that quiet. The reeves drive in the Logan I had was noisy, and the Peerless has a LOT of gear noise and an intermittent knock I think coming from the linkage below the arm driving the ram.

Greg
 
Nice surface finish. Wish mine ran that quiet. The reeves drive in the Logan I had was noisy, and the Peerless has a LOT of gear noise and an intermittent knock I think coming from the linkage below the arm driving the ram.
Greg
thank you Greg.:grin:
she is beautiful music to my ears!
have you tried thicker oils for lubricating the knocking areas?

the original wood cabinet that my shaper came on has long since deteriorated.
the only remnant is the top that the shaper is bolted to.
i really need to replace the wood.
the shaper is setting on a nice frame, but i really need to replace the wood.
i have considered some red oak planks with a substantial plywood top.
 
Nice, Mike! Looks like you are getting the hang of the shaper and what it needs to do good work. Smooth, quiet, and under control...
 
Nice, Mike! Looks like you are getting the hang of the shaper and what it needs to do good work. Smooth, quiet, and under control...
thank you Bob
It sure is fun to play with!
Very nice Mike. Keep up good work. You're shortening my learning curve :)
Ted
Hi Ted,
We can all learn from my ignorance and mistakes!
 
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Cutting across the face can be done in both directions if the tool is ground correctly. When using the pull motion the clapper usually is reversed or locked. Mostly it can do almost any type cut . Even gears can be cut , splines , internal and exterior. One of the most under used tools in many years.. I use to love cutting vise jaw grips. The points were real points not nubs.
 
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