[How do I?] Select QCTP Carbide Holders?

Mikey, that's a great explanation. For a little further clarification and understanding, CCMT and CCGT (ignoring for now the digits that follow) are the same except molded vs ground, aren't they?

For the sake of trying out inserted carbide, especially for small boring operations where my homebrew attempts have been too flexible to be considered useful or effective, I ordered some a few weeks ago from eBay. But the designation is slightly different, specifically CCMT060204-HM YBC251. I don't know how much of that is specific to the generic Chinese model number, but I can't help but notice that the "251" at the end is at least reminiscent of the "32.51" and "22.51" you cited. Do you have any insight here?

I hate using eBay links in fora since the links will expire while the post will be around for a LONG time, but the item number for the sake of today's discussion is 322381018603.

Thanks!

Jon, I made a typo on the insert designations that I just corrected. However, that doesn't impact on your question.

The insert size varies with the size of the bar but is usually consistent within a set. Your bars use a CCMT 21.51 insert and all the bars should take the same size. It will also take a CCGT 21.51 or 21.52 insert; the CCGT has a ground edge and are very sharp. The AK grade of CCGT cutters are very sharp. The difference between the 21.51 and 21.52 is just the nose radius. For boring bars, the smaller radius is better because it allows for finer cuts without chatter.

SCLCR tooling is popular for good reason. Both the turning and boring tools have a 5 degree positive lead. For boring bars, this allows you to bore a flat bottom bore without the leading edge of the insert rubbing like a zero lead tool will. Positive lead bars also reduce radial cutting forces provided you can bury the nose radius in the cut. It is for this reason that the smaller nose radius insert is a good choice; it allows you to take a smaller depth of cut without the radial forces causing chatter. It also allows for a smaller depth of finishing cut without chattering, although that smaller nose radius may not give as good a finish as a larger nose radius will. For most of us, finish is secondary to accuracy so I would suggest you go with the 21.51 insert.

Jon, keep in mind that if your boring bars are made of steel instead of carbide, you will have an overhang allowance of about 4:1. If you pay attention to that and stay within this allowance then those bars should cut well for you. Pay attention to speeds as well; the insert maker will give you SFM recommendations for your insert. Most of the time, you will be boring at the max speed your lathe can achieve. Feeds are whatever produces a coiled chip and it may be faster than you might think. Coolant helps to coil the chip as well so use cutting oil if you can (except for brass and cast iron).

I apologize for the screw up/typos I made earlier. I typed it, ran out of the house for a dental appointment, and only just now realized I screwed up.
 
The tool for the job that you are buying it for, parting tool for parting and external grooving within limits, boring bar that will hold grooving, turning and threading inserts and external turning tools for roughing, finishing and facing using different inserts. If you do a good deal of profiling several other tools will be required. Threading tools that use multiple thread form inserts are excellent if called upon to turn Acme, Whitworth, buttress, trapezoidal metric or a thread of your own design. Kennametal makes excellent tools with multiple insert choices with the Top Notch design.

Good luck
 
The tool for the job that you are buying it for, parting tool for parting and external grooving within limits, boring bar that will hold grooving, turning and threading inserts and external turning tools for roughing, finishing and facing using different inserts. If you do a good deal of profiling several other tools will be required. Threading tools that use multiple thread form inserts are excellent if called upon to turn Acme, Whitworth, buttress, trapezoidal metric or a thread of your own design. Kennametal makes excellent tools with multiple insert choices with the Top Notch design.

Good luck
Wreck,
I'm not sure I follow? I was looking for recommendations for a general purpose carbide tool holder, and possibly one for threading as well. I've seen the Kennametal holders, and I guess they must be quite good, as they're 2x the others I've found. I'm ok with spending the money, but I'd like to get 1 tool that will work for most general lathe operations. If that's not practical, that's ok too, it's just that New Old Tony said he uses one cutter for the lion's share of his lathe work.

Thanks,
Evan
 
Wreck,
I'm not sure I follow? I was looking for recommendations for a general purpose carbide tool holder, and possibly one for threading as well. I've seen the Kennametal holders, and I guess they must be quite good, as they're 2x the others I've found. I'm ok with spending the money, but I'd like to get 1 tool that will work for most general lathe operations. If that's not practical, that's ok too, it's just that New Old Tony said he uses one cutter for the lion's share of his lathe work.

Thanks,
Evan

What Wreck is saying is that you need different tools for different tasks (jobs), i.e., many different tool holders if you want to use insert tooling for all those tasks.

The closest to a general purpose tool holder is something like the SCLCR toolholder used with the CCMT/CCGT inserts (e.g., http://www.ctctools.biz/sclcr-l-indexable-turning-tool-holder-i28/), since as Mikey mentioned, this type of toolholder+insert allows you to both turn outside diameters and face without adjusting the toolholder orientation (as depicted by the arrows in the diagram in the ctctools link). SCLCR + CCMT/CCGT is just one example; there are of course other combinations that also give you this flexibility. From my understanding, though, many of the other insert types that give you this turning+facing geometry tend to be neutral or negative rake, i.e., the insert designation has an "N" in the second postion (e.g. WNMG); see http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm.

At any rate, take some time to consider what Mikey said above regarding the 816 lathe and carbide insert tooling. It is possible that the "sweet spot" for the carbide insert tooling is a bit close to the maximum capability of the machine. To put this in perspective: I started out with hand-ground HSS tooling, and eventually took a leap of faith and bought an SCLCR holder (I got the SCLCR/L2020K09 from ctctools) with a mixed party-pack of inserts. With the "general steel" grade CCMT insert, I have turned 4140 (both annealed and hardened) under following conditions: diameter ~ 40 mm [1.5 "], spindle speed 1150 RPM, depth of cut 0.5 mm [~20 thou] (i.e., 1 mm off the diameter), feed 0.2 mm (~8 thou). This is a little below the typical cutting speed for carbide on 4140 steel, but this cut already requires about 0.64 kW according to the Sandvik TurnCalc Android app. Note that 0.64 kW is about 0.85 hp; I saw that some of the other 10" Logan lathes came with a 1/2 hp motor.

Just dropping the feed rate to 0.1 mm/rev [~4 thou] might make this cut work on a 1/2 hp motor, but that is probably pushing the machine quite hard. So what can you try to reduce the power requirements?

We can try to drop the cutting speed, but I know (because I started slower) that the surface finish was rather poor (teared, smeared surface finish on the 4140) at about 750 RPM and lower. So you will hear people saying that "carbide likes speed"; I think This Old Tony mentions that. The practical meaning of this is that you will not obtain that nice, shiny finish if your cutting speed is too low, so we cannot really drop the RPM (for this diameter).

We can try to reduce the depth of cut, but you will see that the chipbreaker on this CCMT style insert requires a minimum depth-of-cut to actually break chips. According to the ISCAR specs, my CCMT09 inserts want a minimum depth of cut of 0.5 mm (https://www.iscar.com/eCatalog/Item.aspx?cat=5502778&fnum=738&mapp=IS&GFSTYP=M&srch=1). If you take a more conservative cut (say, 0.1 mm [~4 thou]) then you have blue-hot razor strips spinning around your part (those "stringy bastards" as doubleboost calls them). The manufacturer's minimum depth of cut may be a little overstated, so the chipbreaker might still work down to, say, 0.3 mm [~12 thou] off the radius, but I cannot recall the exact numbers that still worked in this example. You might be able to find a smaller CCMT insert (say, the CCMT06) with a small nose radius and a chipbreaker designed for a more manageable depth of cut, but I cannot say whether such an insert even exists.

Anyhow, my initial cutting parameters resulted in the chipbreaker working as expected, but I can tell you that it was a little scary. Those chips are blue-hot, and every now and then one would make it past the chip guard. If this was an enclosed CNC lathe, this would probably be fine for everyday operations, but I only use such aggressive parameters (well, aggressive for me) when I have a lot of material to remove.

I hope I have managed to convey in practical terms what carbide insert tooling means in practice. I suspect that this is what Mikey was alluding to as well. Given that you can buy an SCLCR toolholder and a mixed 10-pack of inserts off ctctools for about $70, it is probably not that expensive to give the insert tooling a try, but I defer to the judgement of people more familiar with your lathe.
 
What Wreck is saying is that you need different tools for different tasks (jobs), i.e., many different tool holders if you want to use insert tooling for all those tasks.
Got it. Thanks! Makes perfect sense. Given the relatively high cost of tool holders, let alone inserts, I wanted to dip my toe into the water with something that would get the most use, thus take best advantage of the wear properties of carbide.

The closest to a general purpose tool holder is something like the SCLCR toolholder used with the CCMT/CCGT inserts (e.g., http://www.ctctools.biz/sclcr-l-indexable-turning-tool-holder-i28/), since as Mikey mentioned, this type of toolholder+insert allows you to both turn outside diameters and face without adjusting the toolholder orientation (as depicted by the arrows in the diagram in the ctctools link). SCLCR + CCMT/CCGT is just one example; there are of course other combinations that also give you this flexibility. From my understanding, though, many of the other insert types that give you this turning+facing geometry tend to be neutral or negative rake, i.e., the insert designation has an "N" in the second postion (e.g. WNMG); see http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm.
That (and Mike's post) helps a bunch. Thanks again! I've got to admit that all the tool designation letters make my eyes glaze over. I'm sure they will start making sense, but right now it seems like a whole lot of gibberish.


At any rate, take some time to consider what Mikey said above regarding the 816 lathe and carbide insert tooling. It is possible that the "sweet spot" for the carbide insert tooling is a bit close to the maximum capability of the machine. To put this in perspective: I started out with hand-ground HSS tooling, and eventually took a leap of faith and bought an SCLCR holder (I got the SCLCR/L2020K09 from ctctools) with a mixed party-pack of inserts. With the "general steel" grade CCMT insert, I have turned 4140 (both annealed and hardened) under following conditions: diameter ~ 40 mm [1.5 "], spindle speed 1150 RPM, depth of cut 0.5 mm [~20 thou] (i.e., 1 mm off the diameter), feed 0.2 mm (~8 thou). This is a little below the typical cutting speed for carbide on 4140 steel, but this cut already requires about 0.64 kW according to the Sandvik TurnCalc Android app. Note that 0.64 kW is about 0.85 hp; I saw that some of the other 10" Logan lathes came with a 1/2 hp motor.
I'm kinda regretting pulling the trigger on the Aloris at this point. My 816 came with what appears to be a shop-built multi-tool holder for HSS. After reading several endorsements of "don't waste time with the lantern tool holder, just go right for the QCTP" I decided to dive in. Now I'm wondering if I won't be better off (with an extra $400 in my pocket) sticking with the existing set up, especially given the limited power of the Logan limiting the advantage of carbide insert tooling?
IMG_1325.JPG


Just dropping the feed rate to 0.1 mm/rev [~4 thou] might make this cut work on a 1/2 hp motor, but that is probably pushing the machine quite hard. So what can you try to reduce the power requirements?

We can try to drop the cutting speed, but I know (because I started slower) that the surface finish was rather poor (teared, smeared surface finish on the 4140) at about 750 RPM and lower. So you will hear people saying that "carbide likes speed"; I think This Old Tony mentions that. The practical meaning of this is that you will not obtain that nice, shiny finish if your cutting speed is too low, so we cannot really drop the RPM (for this diameter).

We can try to reduce the depth of cut, but you will see that the chipbreaker on this CCMT style insert requires a minimum depth-of-cut to actually break chips. According to the ISCAR specs, my CCMT09 inserts want a minimum depth of cut of 0.5 mm (https://www.iscar.com/eCatalog/Item.aspx?cat=5502778&fnum=738&mapp=IS&GFSTYP=M&srch=1). If you take a more conservative cut (say, 0.1 mm [~4 thou]) then you have blue-hot razor strips spinning around your part (those "stringy bastards" as doubleboost calls them). The manufacturer's minimum depth of cut may be a little overstated, so the chipbreaker might still work down to, say, 0.3 mm [~12 thou] off the radius, but I cannot recall the exact numbers that still worked in this example. You might be able to find a smaller CCMT insert (say, the CCMT06) with a small nose radius and a chipbreaker designed for a more manageable depth of cut, but I cannot say whether such an insert even exists.

Anyhow, my initial cutting parameters resulted in the chipbreaker working as expected, but I can tell you that it was a little scary. Those chips are blue-hot, and every now and then one would make it past the chip guard. If this was an enclosed CNC lathe, this would probably be fine for everyday operations, but I only use such aggressive parameters (well, aggressive for me) when I have a lot of material to remove.
I wasn't familiar with your Optimum lathe, so I Googled it--looks like quite a nice machine, with a lot more power than the Logan, and about twice the mass (925 lbs for the Optimum vs. ~500 lbs for the Logan, although with my bench I estimate my lathe + bench to weigh about 800 lbs). If you have to worry about which carbide you use, my process window will be even smaller.

I hope I have managed to convey in practical terms what carbide insert tooling means in practice. I suspect that this is what Mikey was alluding to as well. Given that you can buy an SCLCR toolholder and a mixed 10-pack of inserts off ctctools for about $70, it is probably not that expensive to give the insert tooling a try, but I defer to the judgement of people more familiar with your lathe.

fvdbergh--your response was extremely helpful. Thank you! I'm willing to drop $70 to see how insert tooling works, but I was blanching at $300 for the Kennemetal holder and inserts.

What are folks' thoughts about the Aloris? Should I just flip it and hang onto my existing HSS tool holder, or is it still worthwhile even if I'm not using insert tooling?

Finally, if I keep the Aloris AXA, should I run 1/2" inserts or 5/8"?
 
Yep. That set looks just right for exploring carbide.

I would keep the Aloris. A QC toolpost is something you will never regret.

Regarding the size of the toolholder shank: 1/2" is probably fine for the RH turning tool.
Thanks!
 
I agree that you should keep and use the Aloris AXA. I suspect you may not be able to get a 1/2" tool on center height. More likely, you will be using 3/8" tooling. The best idea is to find a brazed turning tool or a previously ground HSS tool in both 3/8" and 1/2" sizes and see which one allows you to set center height without modifying the tool or tool holder. It is always best to use the biggest tool you can but you are limited by your lathe's dimensions.

The tool you linked to is an SCLCR tool that we have discussed here - good tool.
 
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