Seig Sx2.7 Milling Machine

[JamesSX2_7]

Hi Scott,

I'm glad you took the plunge. Also glad you like the mill .

I presume a GFCI (ground fault current interrupter) is similar to our "earth leakage circuit breaker".
Mine runs no problem, though it is possible my ELCB doesn't work.
Maybe there are some electrical differences in the mill (mine is made for 240V, while I guess yours is 110V).

I did some measurements of my head tramming and it did need adjustment. Mine was out 0.15mm (0.006") in 450mm (18").
I used some shim brass to true it up. Was going to write it up at some stage.
It is now down at under 0.002" in 450mm (my dial indicator is imperial).
Of course, with time and use it may move a little.

My spindle run out measured 0.1mm (0.004"), but I want to remeasure. It occurs to me that I have no idea how accurate my collet chuck and collets are.
I'll remeasure directly on the spindle, and with another chuck, and maybe with a MT3 "shaft" (what is such a thing called - an arbor maybe).

My guard did beep, it also got in the way and made the machine useless.
Yes, the knob would be preferred, as after switching off you need to reset the speed - can take a while if you are picky about the exact number, as I can be!
You also have a different colour scheme.

I do think power feed in the Z axis is warranted too.
What is backlash on the X and Y handles like?

James.

 

[salindroth]

Hi Scott,

I'm glad you took the plunge. Also glad you like the mill .

I presume a GFCI (ground fault current interrupter) is similar to our "earth leakage circuit breaker".
Mine runs no problem, though it is possible my ELCB doesn't work.
Maybe there are some electrical differences in the mill (mine is made for 240V, while I guess yours is 110V).

Yes, mine runs on 110v

I did some measurements of my head tramming and it did need adjustment. Mine was out 0.15mm (0.006") in 450mm (18").
I used some shim brass to true it up. Was going to write it up at some stage.
It is now down at under 0.002" in 450mm (my dial indicator is imperial).
Of course, with time and use it may move a little.

I assume you shimmed the column, not the head. Mine is out 0.002" over 9" on the X-axis. I'm not ready to loosen those column bolts just yet!

My spindle run out measured 0.1mm (0.004"), but I want to remeasure. It occurs to me that I have no idea how accurate my collet chuck and collets are.
I'll remeasure directly on the spindle, and with another chuck, and maybe with a MT3 "shaft" (what is such a thing called - an arbor maybe).

I was a little disappointed by the 0.0005" runout at the spindle end, but I'm getting more accurate hole diameters and positioning than I did with the mini-mill, and that's what's important. More concerning is how much the spindle heats up when it runs continuously for 15+ min (not that I'll be doing this often if at all). That suggests that the bearings are not seated properly. There's also a little drag at the top end of the quill feed. Again, I don't have the stomach to take apart the head. That was a reasonable project for me on the mini-mill, but not on this one (yet).

I do think power feed in the Z axis is warranted too.
What is backlash on the X and Y handles like?
James.

I tried the power screwdriver on the Z axis but it unscrewed the nut holding the crank when I try to raise the head. I'll give it a drop of loctite and see if that works. The backlash on both the X and Y axes is about 0.003". Not too bad!

Scott

 

[JamesSX2_7]

Hi Scot,

I did shim the column, placing 2x layers or 0.05mm (0.002") of shim under the left side.
1x layer did nothing. I assume the column contacts elsewhere and the first layer filled the gap.
My column bolts were not the tightest when the mill was received, so I felt no danger in loosening them.

I did re-measure the runout on an arbor and on the ER25 chuck taper.
Both were under 0.001" on my dial indicator, I'll try the more sensitive test indicator when I next get the chance.
Looks like my collets are way off, or my technique is bad.

Where do you notice the heat?
I do (did) run mine for long periods when reducing material with an end mill and never noticed any particular hot areas.
Do NOTE: the motor is INSIDE the head on this mill, unlike the smaller mills. It will create heat too.
There is a guide on professionally setting up an SX3 from a British company that includes taking the spindle apart and re-greasing that may help if you get game.

I'm starting to think a stepper and belt, allowing precise height adjustments may be the go.

That is for much later though.

James.

 

[salindroth]

Hi James,
I am pretty sure the spindle (not the motor) is heating up more than usual. My mini-mill had the same issue until I replaced the bearings. I've seen that arceurotrade video in which they tune an SX3 -- definitely a great resource should I want to dig in.

Raising and lowering the head is definitely a chore. That will need to be addressed at some point. In meantime I'm getting some good exercise!

Scott

 

[higgite]

Raising and lowering the head is definitely a chore. That will need to be addressed at some point. In meantime I'm getting some good exercise!

Scott

Amen, Scott. It didn't take me long to pull out my cordless drill and find a socket to fit the center nut on the handwheel. I was afraid it would unscrew the nut, but so far, so good. My drill is variable speed, controlled by trigger pressure, and I start slow and build up speed. Maybe that helps not unscrew the nut. But, now that I've bragged on it, I'm sure it will unscrew next time I do it.

Tom

 

[JamesSX2_7]

Hi Scott,
Did finally get some time with my mill.
After running for quite a while the spindle was a little warm to touch at the base, but not hot.
I was only doing some light end and side milling so no great pressures were involved.

My biggest concern with the bearings is the hammering to get the MT3 taper to release.
I am surprised by how tightly it holds on.

James.

 

[salindroth]

Hi Scott,
Did finally get some time with my mill.
After running for quite a while the spindle was a little warm to touch at the base, but not hot.
I was only doing some light end and side milling so no great pressures were involved.

My biggest concern with the bearings is the hammering to get the MT3 taper to release.
I am surprised by how tightly it holds on.

James.

My mini-mill had an MT3 spindle taper, and I had the same problem at first. I learned that the drawbar does not need to be tightened so hard to hold the collet/end mill; the taper will do the work for you. It takes a little while to get the feel for how much is enough. You should only need to give the drawbar a light/firm tap to release the collet.

Scott

 

[coherent]

Kind of off subject now from where this thread had drifted, but one easy way to move a mill to/from a workbench is find or make a rolling cart that is the same height as your workbench. Then, you can lift it onto or off of the cart using a hoist or whatever that's located anywhere. Even outside. Then roll the cart next to the bench and slide it off.
I have a chain hoist on the ceiling near my garage door opening. Used this method a number of times successfully.

 

[salindroth]

Kind of off subject now from where this thread had drifted, but one easy way to move a mill to/from a workbench is find or make a rolling cart that is the same height as your workbench. Then, you can lift it onto or off of the cart using a hoist or whatever that's located anywhere. Even outside. Then roll the cart next to the bench and slide it off.
I have a chain hoist on the ceiling near my garage door opening. Used this method a number of times successfully.

Thought of doing that, too. In the end it was easy to rent a duct jack to lift the mill up to my bench.
Scott

 

[harrzack]

I'm lusting after this mill! Had long been wishing for the X3, but this appears to be a good compromise.

Scott - what is the depth (to the wall) of that bench you have the mill on?