Scraping straight down and datum points

The gibs were probably bent and you could have straightened them before scraping them Also the back of the gib is what we pro's calls a "static fit so no more the 5 to 10 PPI is needed.
Here is a You Tube a student shot in Norway and I was teaching them to scrape gibs around 5:35
Jan also has a number of video's on scraping on You Tube.
All gibs come out bent and it only wears on one side and that cause them to bend. Many never figure that out and scrape them flat and waste time as non the other side will need to be scraped to compensate for the unnecessary back side scraping.
 
Understood. I guess I'll chalk that one up as more time with scraping and a lesson learned regarding a better understanding of alignment.

Gotta say, this project has been super rewarding.
 
Update:
Sliding gibs have been scrape fit to the dovetails. For future wannabe scrapers, please see Richards comment above regarding some time saving analysis of your gib condition before scraping it. Only after having learned this, did I find a write up by him on another site regarding proper gib scraping. Regardless, I have learned that lesson the hard way and it will never happen to me again. Thank you AGAIN, Richard.

Here is the progress of the top of the saddle.
The bottom has been scraped to match the top of the knee, including the gib. The scraping process is slow, but the results are very apparent compared to the day I brought the mill home.
20180630_141954.jpg
 
The gib (left in picture) side looks high in the middle and low on the ends. When the saddle is sitting on the knee did you rap the 4 corners with a dead blow hammer and listen for the same thud? Did you set your plate on the saddle to get that that reading? I would scrape the middle 40% out of the top of saddle so as it wears it wears outside first. Also set a height gage on top of knee and indicate all 4 outside corners on top of saddle to top of knee they should be all the same height. Did you set a granite or blade square on top of knee and check squareness to column. The front of knee should be .0002" per foot high. The top of saddle needs to match fit the table too. Your scraping looks good, just have to sure to "hinge" the parts to be sure they are not convex or high in the middle. I help you now and someday you help someone else. Pay Forward is cool... :)
 
Before scraping I had set the saddle on my cast iron surface plate. Setting an indicator base on the plate and moving it around I measured the top of the saddle. It was high in the middle/gib side, just like you pointed out in your last post. I flipped it over so that the top was resting on the plate, hinged the part(it was spinning on the center/gib side)and rapped each corner to verify the high center. I could hear the "click" on the lowest corner(top right of photo in my previous post). I've been scraping the high center out of it, admittedly slow and playing it cautious. It does hinge 1/3 in from the ends, now. Along the way, I have set a square on the saddle and checked square in relationship to the column. As you suggested, I will definitely scrape the middle down as you say.

I have a few questions about the table:
My CI plate is smaller than the table.
I have a camelback that is long enough, but obviously too narrow.

Do you scrape the top or bottom first? Does it matter?
I read somewhere that the tightening of work over the years usually causes bow in the top, right?
After the bottom is scraped, I'm assuming it best to then go back to scraping the top saddle dovetails to fit it to the table?

Perhaps I'm over thinking this but, I want to have a way to verify my work beyond the camelback and I need to verify parallelism of the top to bottom of the table. Would it be acceptable to set some 123 blocks on the CI plate and then place the table on the blocks to check top to bottom parallelism with an indicator? Maybe that makes no sense and is a dumb idea. Again, I just want to have a way to verify my work and right now I have a mental block at on this one.
 
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Are there reference surfaces that can be used to establish the factory geometry? If so, scrape it in relative and parallel to the reference surfaces, and work on from there.
 
Okay, I've been trying to work up the courage to scrap my machine, and while it appears to be straight forward, the devil is in the details! It seems with even a small piece of scrap one can make a mess or over do it.
 
Are there reference surfaces that can be used to establish the factory geometry? If so, scrape it in relative and parallel to the reference surfaces, and work on from there.


Bob is right as long as the part your scraping is in a relaxed state and on 3 points. If the part is pulled down cockeyed and you induce a twist and you follow the twisted original surfaces you will screw it up. It looks easy but it isn't. That's why I am swamped with classes. LOL
 
Okay, I've been trying to work up the courage to scrap my machine, and while it appears to be straight forward, the devil is in the details! It seems with even a small piece of scrap one can make a mess or over do it.
I tried for years to learn scraping on my own, studying every book and online reference I could find, and never achieved anything I was truly proud of. A few months ago I attended one of Richard's classes and after a few days the light bulb started to turn on in my head, and the work became straightforward, accurate and even pretty.
The class was well worth the cost and the time invested. I really think it is pretty much that you learn from a seasoned pro teacher like Richard, or try to find someone else with lots of experience reconditioning machinery in real life, who will take you under his wing and teach you right. Warning, there are a LOT of wannabe experts...

Edit: I am pretty proud of my usual ability to learn things for myself. Scraping was not one of them. Also, there is lots of goofy work shown on YouTube, and some good stuff, too. As a novice, it is impossible to tell the difference...
 
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