Rust resistant/proof finishes or coatings for meta in a harsh environmentl?

Parkerize with the manganese phosphate solution from Brownells.com. It comes out a dark grey nearly black. I did a lot of gun barrels with it. Only special equipment you need is cleaning solution, course bead, a blaster, and a glass or stainless container you can submerge and boil the part in.

They also have a lot of spray on coatings.

Make them from AL?

Steve
 
pineyfolks said:
How about duracoat firearm finish, just spray and bake
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swatson144 said:
Parkerize with the manganese phosphate solution from Brownells.com. It comes out a dark grey nearly black. I did a lot of gun barrels with it. Only special equipment you need is cleaning solution, course bead, a blaster, and a glass or stainless container you can submerge and boil the part in.

They also have a lot of spray on coatings.

Make them from AL?

Steve
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We are thinking alike, be very afraid... ;) :lmao: I was on MidwayUSA's site last night looking at both the Duracoat stuff and parkerizing kit. :thumbzup: The other things that caught my eye were a spray on Cerama-Coat from Wheeler Engineerign: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/455475/wheeler-engineering-cerama-coat-4-oz-aerosol-black and the another that is really looking good is the Cerakote from Brownells. It comes in both an oven cure, http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26563/Product/CERAKOTE-OVENCURE-CERAMIC-COATINGS and an air cure, http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=41824/Product/CERAKOTE-AIR-DRY-CERAMIC-COATINGS

Snippet from the description:
State-of-the-art, Cerakote™ Firearm Coatings provide a durable, weather- and corrosion-proof, ceramic-based protective finish that resists scratching, chipping, and abrasive cleaning solvents.
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The "weather- and corrosion-proof" really lit up the synapses or maybe just synapse. :biggrin:

-Ron
 
would look good nickel plated, you would have to machine the difference off to make up for the plating.. unless you already have enough clearance..
 
Brucer, Now that you mention it, I also looked glanced at the nickel plating kit that Midway has: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/119436/caswell-mini-electroless-nickel-plating-kit

As you've already alluded to though, the plates would need more work to get the clearances and I'm just not set up for that as of yet. That, and the nickel (which I like much better than chrome btw) is still kind of "chroming" the underside of the bike. :p :biggrin:

Right now I think that the Cerakote in "Graphite Black" is the front runner.

-Ron
 
Okay, I have the Cerakote. Before I am ready to coat anything (bought a new barrel for an AK that will be coated in the near future as well) I have another question.

Right now, I have removed any rust from the metal parts with Evaporust and left them covered in a thin layer of oil. I need to remove the oil and get the metal dry before applying the coating. I could use brake cleaner or acetone but I'm afraid that the parts would "flash rust" and I'd have to start over again.

Any suggestions for how to get to clean metal for finishing without the problem of rusting?

Thanks,

-Ron
 
Acetone will boil off in seconds, as long as the parts are not cold. Should work fine. You can heat the acetone in a pail of warm, NOT HOT, water that you heated somewhere else away from the acetone. We have used a heated ultrasonic tank with acetone but must be explosive safe and very well vented. The acetone boils off as the parts are lifted out.

Brake Cleaners are a little slower to boil off, as they are used to lift and move junk off the brakes. They are usually a mix of various solvents, Tricloro 111 or 112, Tolune, Heptane, Hexane, n-Butane Alcohol, Percloros, etc.

In either case outside ventilation is best. Pick a dry day, run a dehumidifier. It can not be that much of a problem as no shop is 0% humidity in the real world.

Also change the acetone if you see a residue left behind by a drop on a sheet of glass. May have to change it for every part if they are very oily. You can use 2 or 3 wash tanks all containing acetone, so the first tank takes most of the oils and the next are actually cleaning the parts of the remaining oils. It is all about dilution until the oils are too minute to have an affect on the coating.

Maybe someone from the plating industry could provide better info or ideas.
 
rickard said:
Gee man sounds like you got bigger Problems, My shovel Never leaks :) :) :) :) :) :lmao::lmao::lmao:
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You may wanna check your oil, if a shovel doesn't leak oil you got bigger problems:thinking::lmao::lmao:

As for the coating it really depends on what your intentions are with the bike, if your doing a all original restoration you should not coat them with anything other than what was original, for a reasonable close restoration go with parkerization , if just a cool custom ride go with powder coat, Chrome sucks.
 
Thanks guys, that will help.

Charlie, nothing I touch stays "original" for long. That's one of the reasons I don't get involved with nice, pristine, exemplary type motorcycles, because I just gotta "do something" to it, just gotta! :biggrin: Of course I'd be a little better off if I didn't tend to collect the basket case pieces of junk I DO end up with. :p :biggrin:

-Ron
 
What about porcelean or Teflon coatings. Easy to clean, no rust, no corrosion, fairly cheap. available in multiple colors to match the bike or stand out against the frame color for an accent. The coating could cover everything because they are low friction coatings too. Other wise what about some kind of anodized or plating like copper of zinc. Just some thoughts I had while reading the Original post.
Wheelchair bob
 
Bob,

It's because I hadn't thought about and no absolutely nothing about those kinds of coatings. Now that you've brought them up I'll do some research into them to find out what they are all about.

Thanks much,

-Ron
 
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