rung fu clone RF-45 ZX45 cnc conversion

Ugra CNC (Andy) will test out the spindle you buy from them and send you video of run out on the spindle you are buying. Made me feel a bit better than risking junk bearings from a china spindle delivered from china.

Also a the WJ200 Hitachi VFDs are nice and make adding a brake resistor pretty easy if you want one of those later.
 
Hi Steve, don't know if you still are watching this thread but just wanted to say thanks as I am in process of building a I.H. Charter oaks machine and am using your Z axis setup as it is a nice, clean and well engineered setup. I am of course going to use the 2- 1600 in oz units and the 4200 in. oz for the Z axis. Again Thanks for sharing your great build.
 
Hello Roadster
I'm still around and receive notifications if there is activity.
If you have any questions I'd be happy to help.
It was a fun build and to this very day the mill is as solid as the day I first built it.
Steve
 
Steve, Glad your still around. I did have a couple questions about the Z bearing mount. Although you never mentioned it if I remember correctly you actually cut off the stock mounting holes to make it fit in the column, that's what it looks like anyway. Any help on this would be wonderful. I believe I already have it thought out but since your the master on this one I thought I'd ask. No sense in reinventing the wheel. Thank you on advance. Jack
 
Hi Jack
in post 43 the pics show the bearing I used, it is an option available instead of the block I used for x and y.
if the diameter of your shaft is say 15mm for the bearing ID then the part number you need is a FK15 in ebay, the bearing prefix for the x an y mounts I used were BK. see ebay item number 161195513991 as an example.
Steve

fk15.jpg
 
I forgot to add that these bearings from China are not plug and play
take the bearing apart and clean it well making sure the bearings are facing in opposing directions. the thin part of the outer races face out, opposite from each other. I have received them assembled wrong. also most of them require a thin shim between the outer races or you will not get any preload when you adjust the nut on your ball-screw. the inner races will contact each other before you have preloaded the bearing. the races fit snug in the housing so you will not notice this preload issue until they have been run under load. I just shim them all, then use the nut to set my preload.
Once you have done this they are fine with no problems, mine have been running for years.
Steve
 
Steve, thanks, I did realize that after I got mine and remembered your posts. My seals where there but some backwards and bearings backwards. I did have to modify the Z axis bearing mount and keeper to resemble pretty much the FK15 since the Chinese are out for the Chinese new year and parts would not arrive until after the 15th of March.
Jack
 
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