Rt Fixture Plate

dlane

dlane

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Hi all, I have a vertex HV 8" rotary table headed my way , and I have a 22"x22" X 1-1/2" mic6 aluminum plate
I was going to make a fixture plate for the RT , just looking for ideas , size , shape , holes / pattern, .
I figure I'll cut the plate to an aprox size while I'm waiting, round , square ?.
Any ideas , pics would be much appreciated,helpful
Thanks
 
A thought: a square plate may limit your ability to rotate 360 degrees.

Some plates that I have seen have an alternating pattern of dowel pin holes and threaded holes. Considering the you have the ability to rotate, I wouldn't see any advantage to having a circular pattern other than possibly being able to reference from 0 degrees. I have both an manual and stepper driven table. The stepper driven can be zeroed at any point. For the manual table, the arbitrary reference point wasn't too bothersome.

As to spacing and hole size, it would depend upon the intended use. If you are working mostly small parts, I would think that 1/4 or 5/16" holes on a closer spacing would be fine. You might want to run3/8" or 1/2" to allow use of a step clamp system. Perhaps a mix of different thread sizes?

Bob
 
A thought: a square plate may limit your ability to rotate 360 degrees.
Thanks Bob ,dose that mean the crank handle is higher than the table top surface,
I was thinking ied make a square 12"x12" , don't want to waste any aluminum plate
Guess I should wait for the table to arrive.
 
I actually hadn't thought about the crank handles The crank handle on my 12" Enco and the motor on the Tormach RT are both below the table surface. I was thinking about the x-y work envelope and freedom to position the RT on the table. I have run into situations where I couldn't rotate a workpiece a full 360 degrees. There is a workaround in that case but if you have a corner every 90 degrees, maybe not. You can always leave it square and cut it round at a later date. You are steel safe, as they say.
 
I agree that round is the way to go. Bigger is better but not too big as to make rotating the table or reading the graduations impossible. I have seen the Vertex 8" table in two different configurations, one with 3 T-slots and one with 4 T-slots, so don't do too much until you have the table in front of you.
My table has a MT3 bore in the center. I made up an arbor with a MT3 shank that I drop in the table bore and my fixture plate is bored to fit the other end of the arbor so that I can easily get the fixture plate dialed in. The arbor also makes it easier to mount any of my chucks to the table.
 
I think I would basically leave it alone other than perhaps providing features for mounting to the RT. Beyond that I think I would only change it as little as required for each new job. Leave as many options open for the future as possible.
 
Make a fixture for the job at hand, there is very little to be gained by making part holding tooling for future parts of which you have no idea of shape or size. If you are not concerned about the extra time involved in making fixtures to place on the fixtures then by all means drill a grid of holes for the attachment of other tooling.

Otherwise drill some mounting holes in it for the T-Slots and leave it whatever size is easily handled, you may someday be required to mill a 10" radius with a 4" radius table.
A large sacrificial tooling plate will then be beneficial.
 
Make sure you can get the RT hold clamps on when the table is at 90*.
I put an 8" 4jaw on my 6" Phase II RT and I can't get the clamp under the chuck. I have to add a second hold down to the back side and it is not especially rigid.
 
Thank's yall ,The tooling plate as it is now is 22x22" X 1-1/2" a little large.
So is there a sacrificial somthing used under the part on the RT or fixture plate so it doesn't get messed up ?. I have a few jobs for the RT , I'd like to be set up for them , 4"X1/2x8" 6061 concave radius thru cuts, several different sizes. I'll be leaving town four days after RT gets here
A round 10-12" with taped holes , mt3 - 3/4" center hole fixture plate ?.
What y'all using under the part when going thru it (sacrificial material) ?.
Thanks
 
I think most people consider the fixture plate itself to be sacrificial, this is why they are usually so thick. You just skim them off when they get beat up and toss them when worn out.
 
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