Rotary table problem

I've just found a better quality drawing online with a parts listing.
http://www.phase2plus.com/manuals/H...IQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNGGfl4RhUFNlWzOJSuUXWA_Sg_ZrA

Have you removed items 28,29 & 30? Looks like item 29 (threaded pin) engages in a groove just behind the large dia section of item 37. If you haven't removed that pin, that might be what is stopping you from pulling that part (item 37) out.
I'm not sure how the eccentric is operated to engage or disengage the worm. Item 25 looks like a clamp.

regards
bollie7
 
bollie7 said:
I've just found a better quality drawing online with a parts listing.
http://www.phase2plus.com/manuals/H...IQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNGGfl4RhUFNlWzOJSuUXWA_Sg_ZrA

Have you removed items 28,29 & 30? Looks like item 29 (threaded pin) engages in a groove just behind the large dia section of item 37. If you haven't removed that pin, that might be what is stopping you from pulling that part (item 37) out.
I'm not sure how the eccentric is operated to engage or disengage the worm. Item 25 looks like a clamp.

regards
bollie7
Click to expand...

Yes, thanks, I have tried removing all of those, they appear to be adjustments of some kind but don't release the worm. The item 25 is the lever that operates the lock that locks the worm in or out of adjustment. The eccentric is rotated by hand with the lock undone into the engaged or non-engaged position.

I removed it, too, didn't do any good. Item 8 from your previous message is indeed the oil plug (edit: that's oil slight glass, the plug is elsewhere). There appears to be a bearing on the inside end of the worm and a pin or key retaining the worm shaft inside the eccentric. Really appreciate your input, thanks!
 
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Without having one in front of me I can't think of anything else. Do you have a dissassembly procedure from phase2? It will probbaly be something really simple, when you find it.
best of luck with it.
regards
bollie7
 
Bet you gotta take the table off before you can get the worm gear out, looks like you can see quite a bit in there also with the table removed (just my worthless 2 cents) now back to your regular programming :biggrin:
 
bollie7 said:
Without having one in front of me I can't think of anything else. Do you have a dissassembly procedure from phase2? It will probbaly be something really simple, when you find it.
best of luck with it.
regards
bollie7
Click to expand...

Thanks much, Bollie7, I have the owner's manual and parts list, no repair information. I guess if I could get a repair manual, if it exists at all, I would not be in this fix....! When I was much younger, I took apart the coaster brakes on my bicycle, and spent an entire summer trying to figure out how to re-assemble them....the man at the Western Auto store told me how, and it was simple when you knew the tricks. I learned from that not to mess with anything I don't have a service manual --- or a helpful mentor who has been there before --- to guide me.....I'm leaving it be unless I turn up some hard information, which was my purpose here.....:biggrin:
 
They are not that difficult to disassemble and assemble. Remembering how it came apart is helpful. Just a little patience and confidence which I'm sure you have and you'll learn alot while doing it. Several years ago I took my 10" apart and reassembled and it still works. (amazing). Don't be in a hurry. I did the same thing with my bike, it took a while before I had brakes also. Yes it was a 2 wheeler and no it wasn't one with the giant front wheel. Good Luck. I'm sure you'll be glad you did.
dickr
PS On mine the screw rolls in and out for engaging and disengaging. I would be very surprised if anything is broken or bent.
 
Video_man said:
Bought a beautiful new 8 inch Phase II rotary table, very pleased with it. And then --- disaster --- one time as I was lifting the heavy and oily table, every so carefully, to the mill table ---- somehow it slipped from my grasp and fell to the concrete floor. No apparent damage to the outside, the table rotates nicely and the dti shows it's still concentric ---BUT the worm will not longer disconnect (rotate out of engagement) so the table can be rotated by hand.

OK, the instructions warn not to even bump the worm, it's fragile. And I can live without the manual capability. But I hate it when things don't work right. My attempts to open the table, working with the parts diagram, have come to naught. It was a truck shipment and sending it to the US distributor for repair is impractical.

Questions: Anybody know how to disassemble this table? Is doing that likely to do more harm than good, i.e., mess up the table alignment?
If I did disassemble it, assuming the worm is bent somehow, is it home-fixable?

At this point, I am leaving well-enough alone, but appreciate any thoughts.
Click to expand...



Sorry, VM; I had to leave for a few days, and now that I see the drawing, I can't see any reason that the table doesn't pop right out. My memory is not quite as good as it used to be, but I'd say I'm of no help. That's one of those jobs you really need to have in front of you to see all the parts in relation to each other. I remember there was a clip somewhere, that made dis assembly a lot easier. I know I worked on 2 different brands, and neither was helpful to the other. I'd just take everything out, after sketching up the parts; it is probably a small clip/ring holding up the repair.
 
Thanks, metalmann, I have been away also. I've loosened everything on the table that I can find, and the table won't remove. I believe the two table locks underneath need to rotate or unscrew, but they remain firmly in place and I am reluctant to apply any more force than I have done, not being sure that I'm doing the right thing and wanting to avoid damage. But my instinct is that they are the key to this. If I could get the table off, I could at least eyeball the worm to see if I could idenify the probem. Until I can find some specific disassembly information, I'm going to leave it alone. Thanks again to you and all who replied!
 
Resurrecting this thread, as I finally got this sorted and thought someone else might use the info. Disassemble: remove the set screws that retain the two table locking levers. Pull the levers out of their holes. Turn the table locks 90 degrees to free up the table. Remove the adjusting collars under the table. The table is a very precise fit, so a soft mallet may be needed to ease it out of the mounting hole. Removing the eccentric is easy if undamaged, hard if it is (which was my problem). After removing the crank wheel and related hardware, the key is part #30 on the diagram, a tapered plug that apparently removes end play from the eccentric. It is retained by a set screw and otherwise just a push fit in its socket. The end is centerdrilled, I'm guessing to allow you to tap it for a removal screw. When the plug is removed, remove the set screw that limits the rotation of the eccentric, and remove the eccentric. Mine was damaged (dumb me, the table is real heavy and oily and I dropped it) . The damage to the table was a burr on the location plug and a tiny bump on the eccentric itself. The fit is so close that that small amount was enough to lock the eccentric. A short session with an ultra-fine jeweler file and some 800-grit polishing paper is all the eccentric needed. Reassembly: 90wt gear oil for the worm (to midway up the sight glass. It doesn't take much, don't over-fill) The ball oilers need 20wt as the oil grooves in the table assembly are very small and heavier oil might not pass. I found the oil recommendations in the instructions for another brand of table but I think they properly apply to this one as well.
 
I'm trying to fix a 221-306 that has a similar problem. In this case, the hand-wheel does not rotate without a tremendous amount of effort.

The eccentric rotates freely from lock-to-lock when the handle is turned. Once the eccentric hits the lock (set screw) the handle then is very difficult to turn, but the table does turn.

To remove the locking pin, I started to tap it and after a couple of turns the tap had such a good hold on it that it was removable. There are now 2 set screws which limit the eccentric's rotation.

At this point, I need 2 spanners to remove the jam nuts on the handle wheel shaft.

Has anyone else experienced this jammed hand-wheel issue?
 
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