Riding mower stole my day.

Will take one tommorow, it is having a transmission mod at the moment, I reused the Kohler clutch, and it couldnt stand the power, so I am modifying the drive to two V belts with jockey pulleys to tension them, one for drive, and one for the grass deck1
 
Will take one tommorow, it is having a transmission mod at the moment, I reused the Kohler clutch, and it couldnt stand the power, so I am modifying the drive to two V belts with jockey pulleys to tension them, one for drive, and one for the grass deck1
 

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I took my Cub Cadet mower out for the first mowing of the season last week. In extending the mowed area slightly, I ran into rements of some hog fencing. 12 ga. wire wrapped around one blade and in the few seconds it took to stop the mower deck, the blade had locked up completely. I drove it over to the patio and took a peek underneath. The wire had wound tightly around the housing and crossed over a couple of times . I got out my linesman's pliers and diagonal cutters and started to dissect the wire. A few minutes later all the wire was removed but the blade was still locked tight.

With all that done, it was apparent that I would have to drop the deck. Once that was done, I removed the blade and with a 3/4" breaker bar, still couldn't budge the shaft. So I removed the housing and pulley and was able to remove the upper bearing and spcaer, leaving just the lower bearting and the shaft in the housing. A couple of sharp raps with a 3 Lb. hammer and block of wood freed the shaft. The wire wrapping around the blade and the housing swaged the end of the housing down and in welding the housing to the shaft. A little cleanup work on the lathe and some file work on the housing put everything right again.

I reassembled the mower deck and remounted it and set about mowing again. About twenty minutes in, I was having trouble mowing up a grade so I decided to work on some flatter terrain. About 200 yards from the barn, my left rear tire went completely flat. I mean tire off the rim flat. Ihe tractor wasn't driveable and my air compressor was 200 yards away.so I brought out the diesel tractor to tow it back.

Once back at the barn, I fired up the air compressor and set about inflating the tire. Anyone who has tried mounting a tubeless tire knows you have to get both beads reasonably seated in order to build up pressure. On a 20-8.00 tire, this is like trying to corral a bunch of greased pigs. Finally, I got my tie down strap from my boat and wrapped it around the tread several times and hooked it into a loop. By tightening the strap, I was able to distort the tread enough to seat both beads aqnd I inflated the tire to the specified 10 psi.That done, I took the Cub around to the other side of the barn. By the time I got there, the tire was going soft again. I decided to pull the wheel for a closer look. The single bolt which held the wheel on the axle would barely budge. I was afraid the I would snap the bolt off. Eventually, with the aid of some WD40 and a bigger wrench, I was able to tease the bolt out. No rust on it so I can only surmise that there was Loc Tite.

With the wheel off, I reinflated it and the leak was readily apparent. Just above the tread on the inner sidewall there was a steady jet of air escaping. Apparently, before the wire had wrapped around tightly, it whipped out and punctured the tire. I dismounted the tire and assessed the situation. From past experience, sidewall punctures are not repairable although the thought did cross my mind to try some Flex Seal :rolleyes:. Not wanting to run around on a quest for a tire with COVID 19 lurking, I decied to take advantage of our Amazon Prime subscription and order one on line. The tire shipped out from Utah that evening and is due to arrive tomorrow. The Cub is only 20 months old and the tire is practically new. When things ease up out in the world, I'll order an inner tube so I will have a backup for any future mishaps.

I should have gone fishing. 1589229979288.png
 
Squirrels ate the lens and bezel from my John Deere 430's fuel tank. Not really relevant, but as long as we're complaining about lawnmowers...
 
but as long as we're complaining about lawnmowers...
I cannot find tires that will hold air longer than a week
When I replaced the blown up 8 hp Tecumseh with a 12 hp Briggs, I thought I had a great engine swap
The alternator bearings in the blade end of the hubs only last a couple of seasons, but are more fun to change than spending $100 for the entire hub.
The foam and fabric of the seat have been gone for years, as has the battery's ability to hold a charge.

No squirrel trouble, but the steering wheel is apparently a great perch for several bird species hereabouts........
 
Tires won't hold air, and can't get the rim off the shaft to fix them. New hubs and belts, but the damn thing tosses the deck belt every time I get into something tall. Battery doesn't hold a charge, so I have to make sure I don't kill it away from the charger. I love mowers......
 
I have a Toro 44" that I can't figure out . Every time I take this thing up to NY it dies . Brand new engine . I ran it up to the shop the end of last year and was told it was a ground wire for $125.00 . It died again , in the exact same place . I had my electrician check it out and everything seems good . I lost the ignition and the PTO . I've checked these wires 10 times , bypassed all the safety switches etc . This POS has me stumped.
Safety switches are a hazard. The most dangerous mower is the inoperative one. The owner will injure himself kicking it, straining it manually up out of the field and/or on and off the truck/trailer.

I've had several Cub Cadets and a Toro with similar problems. All the homeowner grade mowers are built with cheap switches and with insanely complicated wiring diagrams to accommodate all the lawyer safety circuits. For example, the PTO switch has as many as five circuits running through it; any short or resistance in any one of these can disable the PTO. The engine Start/Run switch has the same complexity. Replacing the expensive OEM switches would only last a year or so in my mowers.

Your opinions and results may vary. Don't do what I did. The following is for information purposes only. The solution to make my otherwise good running mowers dependable was to puzzle out the bare minimum of wires and circuits necessary to make the engine and the PTO operate and then rewire it to actuate those with aftermarket industrial grade switches. By the time I finished the first re-wire, there was a five-gallon bucket full of wiring harness and switches. The fix was a simple On/Off for the engine, a pushbutton for the starter and an On/Off for the PTO.

jack vines
 
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Update: blinking light has gone OFF, luckily, and the CHG OIL has departed.
Last season's deck belt has a gash in it about 3/4 of the was through so that'll be next to go I imagine.
Ordered two on-line, so now at least I'll have replacements on hand.
Nothing as bad as tangling with Hog Wire though.

I would like to repair the seat safety switch. Somewhere in it's past life it was bypassed.
~20yrs ago while mowing my first yard here in TN I hit a landscape timber (railroad tie) straight on, slight 20° incline and flipped the mower.
Bounced the front tires off of it like a basketball on pavement.
It did a turtle, and thankfully had cutoff so the blades stopped. I was a tad beat up, but nothing broken.
 
Update: blinking light has gone OFF, luckily, and the CHG OIL has departed.
Last season's deck belt has a gash in it about 3/4 of the was through so that'll be next to go I imagine.
Ordered two on-line, so now at least I'll have replacements on hand.
Nothing as bad as tangling with Hog Wire though.

I would like to repair the seat safety switch. Somewhere in it's past life it was bypassed.
~20yrs ago while mowing my first yard here in TN I hit a landscape timber (railroad tie) straight on, slight 20° incline and flipped the mower.
Bounced the front tires off of it like a basketball on pavement.
It did a turtle, and thankfully had cutoff so the blades stopped. I was a tad beat up, but nothing broken.
A working seat safety switch is a good idea. A"slight" 20º incline huh? My Cub Cadet is supposedly limited to 15º. I have been tempted to make an inclinometer as I have some slopes that are pushing it.
 
Gradual might be a better word. I was going at it straight on from a flat area, backing off, moving over, then taking another cut.
Smacked the ties and it bounced up and back. Operator error - went at it too fast, got comfortable, had done it a couple of dozen times like that.

I'm thinking maybe a lanyard safety switch like on watercraft? Got to spend some time mulling it over.
I took the spring type switches off of one of the derelicts (Yardman) I have sitting around, but can't figure out how to mount it on the Toro.

A working seat safety switch is a good idea. A"slight" 20º incline huh? My Cub Cadet is supposedly limited to 15º. I have been tempted to make an inclinometer as I have some slopes that are pushing it.
 
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