Rethread to more common thread?

[LikeTheSandwich]

As mentioned above, cut the center portion in half. Grind the square portion down to fit in some 1/2" black pipe and weld it. Almost free and safe!

You think that'll be a better option than threading? I mean I don't really know I'm new to machining and welding (I've been soldering for nearly 2 decades though). But if you guys think that's better, I'll defer to y'all.

 

[Flyinfool]

If you want to drill and tap instead of weld just get a 3/4" round bar and drill and tap to fit your rod ends.

Tap drill size 11/32 or 8.75mm

M10-1.25 Left hand tap

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

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M10-1.25 Right Hand Tap

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[LikeTheSandwich]

If you want to drill and tap instead of weld just get a 3/4" round bar and drill and tap to fit your rod ends.

Tap drill size 11/32 or 8.75mm

M10-1.25 Left hand tap

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

M10-1.25 Right Hand Tap

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

I'm trying to do this as inexpensively as possible. I have a Home Depot gift card, so I don't mind spending a bit of money there since it's $0 out of pocket for me. A 3/8 tap and some 3/8 threaded rod and nuts will be $0 out of pocket and I can get it today from Home Depot. I can't get those taps today, and they're quite expensive. But thanks for the idea. I could also get some 1/2" pipe today, not to mention for cheap, so that's not something I'm not opposed to. I'm just trying to think about what's the best way to go about it. The pipe is probably cheapest, so I'm strongly considering that. But the threaded rod would give me the most room for error/adjustment.

 

[Flyinfool]

3/8 threaded rod is a LOT weaker than the 10mm thread of the rod ends, the longer it gets the weaker it gets.

You will be best off taking your center section to Home Despot and find the pipe size it will fit into then cut and weld to make the new longer center.

If you are not sure how long to make it, then wait until you are far enough along in the project to where you need it and can take proper measurements. Murphy says if you guess you will guess to short.

 

[LikeTheSandwich]

3/8 threaded rod is a LOT weaker than the 10mm thread of the rod ends, the longer it gets the weaker it gets.

You will be best off taking your center section to Home Despot and find the pipe size it will fit into then cut and weld to make the new longer center.

If you are not sure how long to make it, then wait until you are far enough along in the project to where you need it and can take proper measurements. Murphy says if you guess you will guess to short.

Alrighty, thanks for all the help everyone! It makes sense that threaded rod would be weaker. I should only need about 5 inches or so, so I wouldn't it's a big deal. But the pipe will definitely be stronger.

Edit: what about hardened 3/8 rod? I might be able to get that cheap from one of my company's suppliers.

Edit 2: what about cutting it and threading the outside, then using something with that? Is 1/2" tube over it and welded still better?

 

[matthewsx]

I had a racing kart company and replaced a lot of tie rods over the years, it's a critical part and the consequenses of failure even at low speed are significant.

Hopefully you'll get recalled to work soon when things start to open up again. When that happens you want to be in good shape for going back, not laid up from an injury.

Since you don't have a lathe, left hand taps & dies, or raw stock to make tie rods from I can assure you that none of the methods described will cost less than buying the right part. We all love to build stuff here but sometimes it makes more sense to buy what you need.

IMHO, if you can buy the part for $20 you will be dollars ahead over trying to cut and weld what you have now. A good tap or die plus materials will cost more than that.

John

 

[jocat54]

I'm trying to do this as inexpensively as possible. I have a Home Depot gift card, so I don't mind spending a bit of money there since it's $0 out of pocket for me. A 3/8 tap and some 3/8 threaded rod and nuts will be $0 out of pocket and I can get it today from Home Depot. I can't get those taps today, and they're quite expensive. But thanks for the idea. I could also get some 1/2" pipe today, not to mention for cheap, so that's not something I'm not opposed to. I'm just trying to think about what's the best way to go about it. The pipe is probably cheapest, so I'm strongly considering that. But the threaded rod would give me the most room for error/adjustment.

Look at Drills and Cutters website https://drillsandcutters.com/standa...altech/#/filter:size_facet:m10$2520x$25201.25
They are not the best but are HSS and I have been happy with most of their taps and dies

 

[LikeTheSandwich]

I had a racing kart company and replaced a lot of tie rods over the years, it's a critical part and the consequenses of failure even at low speed are significant.

Hopefully you'll get recalled to work soon when things start to open up again. When that happens you want to be in good shape for going back, not laid up from an injury.

Since you don't have a lathe, left hand taps & dies, or raw stock to make tie rods from I can assure you that none of the methods described will cost less than buying the right part. We all love to build stuff here but sometimes it makes more sense to buy what you need.

IMHO, if you can buy the part for $20 you will be dollars ahead over trying to cut and weld what you have now. A good tap or die will plus materials will cost more than that.

John

I really appreciate your wisdom. If I can get stuff from Home Depot I really don't mind, but they don't sell tie rods. Looks like I'll just have to figure out a way to make it work. I might be able to actually narrow the wheelbase instead (although I don't really want to as that would make it less stable, but oh well).

 

[stupoty]

Did we already do the suggestion to cut it in half and insert each piece into holes drilled into each end of a round bar then weld it up ?

Stu

 

[Firstram]

I had a racing kart company and replaced a lot of tie rods over the years, it's a critical part and the consequenses of failure even at low speed are significant.

Hopefully you'll get recalled to work soon when things start to open up again. When that happens you want to be in good shape for going back, not laid up from an injury.

Since you don't have a lathe, left hand taps & dies, or raw stock to make tie rods from I can assure you that none of the methods described will cost less than buying the right part. We all love to build stuff here but sometimes it makes more sense to buy what you need.

IMHO, if you can buy the part for $20 you will be dollars ahead over trying to cut and weld what you have now. A good tap or die plus materials will cost more than that.

John

I disagree, threaded bungs are welded into tubing to make custom length tie rods every day. The OP has the needed threads that he can weld into tubing. The proper method would be to drill a hole through the end of the tube to allow plug welding as well as welding around the end. All of this is dependent on the OP being able to get a quality weld of course.

This is a random example

Amazon.com: 1/4-28 RH + LH Weld In Threaded Heim Joint Tube Adapter Bung for 1/2 Dia by .058 Wall Tube : Automotive

Buy 1/4-28 RH + LH Weld In Threaded Heim Joint Tube Adapter Bung for 1/2 Dia by .058 Wall Tube: Tie Rod Ends - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com