Resurrecting a failed little project, mini-lathe spider

[WobblyHand]

Made the brass tipped screws today. Jeesh, they were not very hard to make. I use a 1/4" ER32 collet on my mini-lathe to hold the 6mm screw with the screw head inside the spindle. About 6mm of the screw stuck out. I then faced the end flat using a HSS tool. Then I used a 3/16" spotting drill to make a start for the drill. I used a #23 drill and drilled a hole 4mm deep.

On my 10x22 I chucked a piece of 1/4" brass stock in my ER40 collet and made a section 4mm in diameter for 3mm in length. I then parted the brass, so that the large 1/4" diameter section was 3mm long. When it fell off, it had a small tit on it. I then brought the small piece back to the mini-lathe.

I inserted the tit into my mini's tail stock chuck to center the small brass piece and tightened the chuck, with the base of the brass flush to the face of the drill chuck jaws. Then I used the tailstock screw to push the brass into the screw. I did not use any adhesive or bearing retainer stuff. When it was flush with the screw, I removed the drill chuck and slid the tail stock away.

Then I faced the brass tip flat, and reduced the diameter of the brass so it was smaller than the minor diameter of the thread. Actually I didn't quire reduce the diameter enough, so they need to go back in the lathe. A lantern chuck would be handy around now, but I guess I will do it the same way as described above.

When I assembled it, it appears I should taper the brass tips some so I can hold a smaller diameter work piece. Might reduce the diameter by a mm or maybe 1.5mm at the tip.

All in all, it was good to get this done.

 

[wildcatter]

They look great! Good job.

 

[WobblyHand]

Thanks for the compliments! I've ordered some stock to make a spider for my 10 x 22. Doing this smaller one for my mini gave me the confidence to make a larger one. Hopefully, it will be a little better. Had problems with milling and drilling due to the dividing head jaws fouling with the end mill and quill. So the screw holes were not exactly where they should have been. Darn close but not dead on. Will try to improve that. Have a longer carbide end mill arriving tomorrow which should help. The piece will be longer as well which should get the features further away from the jaws. Four holes on a 3 jaw can be awkward.

 

[wildcatter]

Now that you've done one, the next should go really well. Post pics if you can!

 

[WobblyHand]

Now that you've done one, the next should go really well. Post pics if you can!

It will go quite a bit easier. I put the new build in my project sub-forum. Hope not to repeat my mistakes, but can't rule out new ones!
This time, made a male pattern thread using a 1 wire pitch diameter measurement. Nut just spun on.

Spider for my G0602/0752Z 10 x 22

Emboldened and chastened by my recent mini-lathe spider project, I decided I would try making a spider for my 10x22 lathe. I bought a chunk of 4340 (don't ask me why, I don't know what I was thinking) that was 2.25" in diameter, which matches the OD of one of the spindle jam nuts. I cut off a...

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[dabear3428]

That's an interesting idea. Might try it later. Too hot outside to be doing that right now. All my oxy-acetylene stuff is done outside, as my garage is antique and is internally sided with wood. Too risky to do open flame work in the space.

I haven't even looked for the brass yet, I was too busy drilling and tapping.

try this?

Interior Fire Retardant for Lumber & Plywood

FX LumberGuard prevents treated materials from sustaining combustion by penetrating the material and becoming part of its molecular structure, a protective barrier is created to protect the treated material from igniting.

frctexas.com

I have it installed on my osb walls lining my shop easy to install just spray on and i has not caught fire yet. this free advice comes with a money back free replacement guarantee, if the advice turns out wrong i will replace it for free.

 

[WobblyHand]

The dried lumber was painted grey oh maybe a hundred or 125 years ago. The garage was used as a small horse barn I'd guess. Think it was built around 1875, give or take. I have a dated city map with the garage outline on it. The map is dated 1875. An earlier map 1850's only shows the main house.

Think the prudent thing to do is not to do torch work inside. I will do TIG there and MIG by the entrance, but stick and oxy are best done outdoors for multiple reasons.