Resurface Saw Table Suggestions?

A

alandarkdale

Active User
Registered
Hello Group Mind;

I'm trying to revamp my old HomeCraft scroll saw. DSC_9239.JPG

The table has had salt exposure, tanning leather, that is a whole different story, and has some pitting that is about 1/32" deep.
DSC_9240.JPG The table is 11" x 11" and 1" deep. There is enough material to surface it smooth. The problem is how?
I have the 9x20 Enco and an assortment of hand tools, bench grinders, Shopsmith, etc.

I think it is way too much to try to hand grind and then scrape. Suggestions?

Dale

DSC_9239.JPG DSC_9240.JPG
 
For woodworking I doubt scraping is of any value. You just don't need that kind of flatness...

If it were mine and depending on how much effort or $$$ I want to put into it, I'd select one of the following:

1) Flycutting or face milling.
2) Flycutting or face milling followed by Blanchard or surface grinding.
3) Body filler and paint...
4) Find a local friend with a larger lathe, bolt it up to a faceplate and turn it flat.

I'd lean towards #3...

John
 
A cutting board can easily be attached using flat-head screws. You could either drill and tap the table to screw in directly or drill through and use nylock nuts on the underside. Countersink for the screw heads and you're good to go. I'd check to see if the board is lifting anywhere and be prepared to add a few more screws if necessary.
 
jgedde said:
1) Flycutting or face milling.
2) Flycutting or face milling followed by Blanchard or surface grinding.
3) Body filler and paint...
4) Find a local friend with a larger lathe, bolt it up to a faceplate and turn it flat.

I'd lean towards #3...

John
Click to expand...

I like the idea of flycut but don't have the ability. I would rather not pay for machine time, one shop in town and their time costs way more than this teacher's salary wants to cover.

As for #3, Would JBWeld work? Color comes closer to cast iron and paint would wear off.

Dale
 
For a novel approach, how about setting it up level on blocks or jacks and, using masking tape to form a dam around the outside and the center hole, pour some epoxy or self leveling floor compound on it about 1/4" thick?

Or if it's reasonably flat, use some contact cement to glue down some Formica type laminate.

Or some peel and stick floor tile, or some good smooth ceramic - hard to cut the center hole in, I expect.
 
alandarkdale said:
I like the idea of flycut but don't have the ability. I would rather not pay for machine time, one shop in town and their time costs way more than this teacher's salary wants to cover.

As for #3, Would JBWeld work? Color comes closer to cast iron and paint would wear off.

Dale
Click to expand...

JB Weld would be ideal!

John
 
Tony Wells said:
For a novel approach, how about setting it up level on blocks or jacks and, using masking tape to form a dam around the outside and the center hole, pour some epoxy or self leveling floor compound on it about 1/4" thick?

Or if it's reasonably flat, use some contact cement to glue down some Formica type laminate.

Or some peel and stick floor tile, or some good smooth ceramic - hard to cut the center hole in, I expect.
Click to expand...

Formica is a great idea! Low friction, tough, thin...

John
 
alandarkdale said:
I like the idea of flycut but don't have the ability. I would rather not pay for machine time, one shop in town and their time costs way more than this teacher's salary wants to cover.

As for #3, Would JBWeld work? Color comes closer to cast iron and paint would wear off.

Dale
Click to expand...

You should teach here on Long Island. Teachers in most districts bring in over $100k/year with top notch benefits, retirement and tenure... Granted our school taxes are out of control... Mine topped $9k/year this year...

John
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top