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Restoring a Kurt Vise / Vice
- Thread starter GreatOldOne
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2014
- Messages
- 418
McMaster Carr don’t have a UK presence, unfortunately. I do have some drive pins coming with the rebuild kit, though.
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2014
- Messages
- 418
Okay, so now I’m confused.
The cap head screws on the D688 are parts 4 & 8, and there’s the dog point set / grub screw 14. These are given to be 5/8-11 X 3 & 1/2-13 X 1-1/4 respectively... but they are most definitely not imperial on mine. I measured the long bolts to be M16 x 2, and the jaw and set screw to be M12 x 1.75
So - does Kurt change the fasteners for the rest of the world, has the previous owner swapped the hardware for more readily available metric ones, or is it a happy accident that the 1/2-13 is *exactly* the same as a standard M12 thread?
It does answer my question as to why my metric hex keys fit. But it also means that the replacement set screw I’ve got coming won’t fit... Ho hum. Nevermind - I can get something that works or reuse the one I’ve got.
The cap head screws on the D688 are parts 4 & 8, and there’s the dog point set / grub screw 14. These are given to be 5/8-11 X 3 & 1/2-13 X 1-1/4 respectively... but they are most definitely not imperial on mine. I measured the long bolts to be M16 x 2, and the jaw and set screw to be M12 x 1.75
So - does Kurt change the fasteners for the rest of the world, has the previous owner swapped the hardware for more readily available metric ones, or is it a happy accident that the 1/2-13 is *exactly* the same as a standard M12 thread?
It does answer my question as to why my metric hex keys fit. But it also means that the replacement set screw I’ve got coming won’t fit... Ho hum. Nevermind - I can get something that works or reuse the one I’ve got.
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2014
- Messages
- 418
So, I've got a cunning plan, my Lord... I've been busy using Pixelmator, and dredging up Kurt labels. And come up with this:
Without knowing the exact fonts they use, that's the closest I can get with the installed fonts on my Mac. But I'm pretty chuffed with the result, when compared with the real McCoy:
The second part of the plan is printing that out at actual size, like this:
On a laser printable, weather and oil resistant plastic, transparent label. Then sticking it on over the plate. I may also give it a coat or two of clear lacquer as well, just for some added protection, but the labels I've got are supposed to be good for workshop use.
More pics when I've got it printed out on the label. But first, work stuff is in the way (It's release day, and crypto functions don't appear on the test severs by themselves), plus I need to change the toner in my printer.
Without knowing the exact fonts they use, that's the closest I can get with the installed fonts on my Mac. But I'm pretty chuffed with the result, when compared with the real McCoy:
The second part of the plan is printing that out at actual size, like this:
On a laser printable, weather and oil resistant plastic, transparent label. Then sticking it on over the plate. I may also give it a coat or two of clear lacquer as well, just for some added protection, but the labels I've got are supposed to be good for workshop use.
More pics when I've got it printed out on the label. But first, work stuff is in the way (It's release day, and crypto functions don't appear on the test severs by themselves), plus I need to change the toner in my printer.
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2014
- Messages
- 418
So, here are the results. Firstly, I did them on the transparent labels (non branded, found online)
It was OK, but it wasn’t 100% happy. So I tried again with some silver waterproof / oil proof labels (Avery, from amazon. Used for asset tags etc) - this turned out much, much better. I just had to cut out the serial number window:
They even catch the light.
I’ll give it a coat of lacquer tommorow, but I’ve already attacked one of the spares with some oil and meths, and it shrugged it all off.
It was OK, but it wasn’t 100% happy. So I tried again with some silver waterproof / oil proof labels (Avery, from amazon. Used for asset tags etc) - this turned out much, much better. I just had to cut out the serial number window:
They even catch the light.
I’ll give it a coat of lacquer tommorow, but I’ve already attacked one of the spares with some oil and meths, and it shrugged it all off.
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2014
- Messages
- 418
If you like watching paint dry, this video is for you. What removes toner from a “special” label? Here’s the answer to a question you never knew you needed to know.
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2014
- Messages
- 418
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2014
- Messages
- 418
It's complete! The parts arrived from @DHarris today, so I spent an hour or so reassembling it after work.
The fasteners on my vise are definitely metric; the setscrew I ordered doesn't fit. I've re-used the old one again (just cleaned it up a bit better). I also managed to get the part numbers wrong ('doh!) and got two 1/2"-13 socket heads, rather than the drive screws. They don't fit either M12 != 1/2"-13
It's not a disaster though, as I did get everything else right, and the new Kurt decals look spiffy. All I need to do now is get it bolted on the mill and trammed in.
Others may find these links useful. I did.
https://www.kurtworkholding.com/downloads/guides/D-Series_Rework.pdf
https://www.kurtworkholding.com/documents/online_D688.pdf
The fasteners on my vise are definitely metric; the setscrew I ordered doesn't fit. I've re-used the old one again (just cleaned it up a bit better). I also managed to get the part numbers wrong ('doh!) and got two 1/2"-13 socket heads, rather than the drive screws. They don't fit either M12 != 1/2"-13
It's not a disaster though, as I did get everything else right, and the new Kurt decals look spiffy. All I need to do now is get it bolted on the mill and trammed in.
Others may find these links useful. I did.
https://www.kurtworkholding.com/downloads/guides/D-Series_Rework.pdf
https://www.kurtworkholding.com/documents/online_D688.pdf
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