Restoring a HF 4x6 band saw

[Downwindtracker2]

The TWS was the worn out one. It had guide posts on the outside of bow frame instead of on the inside like the more common Rong Fu style. They were also longer so you could get the guide rollers closer to the work, a good thing with metal bandsaws. The bearings were also bigger, I had replaced them before I tore it apart! so I couldn't use them on the Rong Fu. oh well.

What was better on the BusyBee/Rong Fu was the slot for the T-nut. On the backside it was machined instead of rough cast. On the TWS it had chewed up the T-nut pretty bad.

My emphasis was on the vise, on the worn out one, it was as rigid as a fish in the bottom of the boat. So I had no hope of squarish cut. As well as the spacer on top of the T-nut, I added a thrust bearing to the rod. To but against something square, I JB welded a brass washer 90degrees to the rod. Instead of a thrust bearing another 7/16" brass washer would have worked. The rod is a 5/8" LH thread Acme and the handle section is machined down to 1/2"

The Rong Fu cuts square when I put a .040" x 1/2" shim beside the blade. chuckle. I'll call that project machine is finished.

 

[tq60]

One of our "projects to do someday" is a set of "band saw vice helpers" that will include sets for both the "post tool" small band saw and the larger Wilson one.

Cutting miter or 45 is a pain as you need to swing the vice then reset after finished.

Second issue is due to the way the back jaw swivels for angle cuts it is some distance from the blade which makes cutting short parts a problem.

The moving jaw swivels but it is at distance from the blade.

We have used scrap for backer and it works so we are looking making an angle block that would have an edge that fits over the fixed jaw and either be adjustable or fixed at 45 degrees.

The end would be real close to the blade.

At same time we can make an extender for the back jaw so it can be normally next to the blade.

Then we need to make same for the moving jaw so it can apply pressure next to the blade.

That is a someday project for us but you could do same if you need to cut a 45 angles.

Other issue is the cuts never come out perfect so we clean up with the mill.

 

[mzvarner]

So I decided to use my wire wheel on an angle grinder to remove the paint from the machined flat section and each of the mating surfaces for the clamps. I opted this route over a flap disk. My experience is that flap discs remove metal very quickly, so it should be easier to control a wire wheel. I am also to impatient to let citristrip sit over night. Seems like everything is relatively flat and true (for my needs). Still thinking if i want to drill and tap a hole at 90 and 45. It really isnt that big of an issue to use a speed square on the edge of the grove the blade runs through. I have not made cuts to test how accurate this set up would be, but it is on my to do list next week I am out in the shop.

 

[Silverbullet]

Sounds like your getting there, I've had good luck with the same type saw . Many years ago I had the Sears equivalent size saw it lifted from the opposite end but it was used and priced right. I ordered new tires and guide rollers . After the initial adjustments it cut well for years , another item I wish I hadn't sold. Once you learn how to read your saw it will tell you what it needs. Sounds funny but it's true . It'll squeal or cut crooked even pop the blade . Just watch and listen. There not hard to figure out.