Restore Or Not To Restore...

Another problem with flipping it is that 2-1/2" of the right end is 1/2" dia. When you flip it, you have to cut that off as the left end of all Atlas 10" and 12" lathe lead screws are either 5/8" or 3/4" dia. So you will have to relocate the right bearing about 2-1/2" to the left.

On very close inspection there appears to be a sleeve around the leadscrew where it enters the QCGB. The right side bearing is about as far right as possible...no signs of remounting (empty holes in empty real estate sufficient to account for the extra length mentioned above). There is, however, plenty of room to the right of the rack gear to do this if desired.
 
All bearings installed and test run. Huge difference in noise level. I still need to reinstall the back gears and headstock cover before I really set everything up and start making chips again...
 
Doing some heavy thinking about my lathe. Here's the laundry list of worn out items:

Leadscrew worn and gouged. tops of AMCE threads worn round
Tumbler gears worn thin, basically to thin triangles with no top flats
Bearings pitted and noisy
Bed with several thou wear at headstock
Large 2 step pulley on countershaft bent/wobbles

All are fixable, but by the time I spend that much $$$ I'm over halfway to a better quality, heavier duty machine like a PM1127. http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM-1127-VF.html

I've already put a bunch of money into it for a QCTP, tooling, collets, etc. I can get much of my $$$ back out of those...all are less than 2 years old. Many major parts of this lathe are in good enough condition to be saleable. QCGB is good. Tailstock is good. Other gears are good. Motor is quiet and strong. Stand is a beast. No cracks or repairs on any of the cast parts.

Kinda hitting a wall here...someone talk me out of selling out and buying a newer machine!

Personally, I would buy a good used industrial grade 14x40" Tool Room Lathe for that kind of money. Not to big, not too small for general purpose and the quality way beyond those home shop offerings. Equipment dealers generally are a good source of such machines and most of them don't sell junk and you can try them before you buy.
Many shops going out of business post ads for them also.
 
"Bed regrind and scraping, $500"

cdhknives - where can you get an Atlas bed reground for $500? I spoke to Commerce and they were looking at $1200 plus shipping

Does anyone know of someone that can grind my 12 x 24 late model for less?
 
"Bed regrind and scraping, $500"

cdhknives - where can you get an Atlas bed reground for $500? I spoke to Commerce and they were looking at $1200 plus shipping

Does anyone know of someone that can grind my 12 x 24 late model for less?

I got the $500 number from a long time career machinist/toolmaker friend as an off the cuff guesstimate. He lives in New Jersey, so price and availability will vary. I never got to the point of actually getting a quote from a machine restoration place. Personally I was considering going to one of the big local machine shops. They rebuild large diesel engines all the time and should have surface grinders capable of handling this task...but in reality I'm far more likely to use this old Atlas like it is until I am good enough to use the accuracy of a better lathe, and then buy a good used 12 or 14 inch toolroom (or gunsmith) lathe.
 
Re grinding can also affect alignment of the qc gearbox and lead screw. If you can live with the wear, and it would have to be pretty bad to have a much effect on short work, then forget the re grind.

Looks like you are making progress on the rebuild. You'll be able to offer first hand advice to new atlas owners yourself.
 
It depends on what you like to do. Do you want to work on a lathe or work with a lathe?
That's a great point, years ago I made that mistake and I ended up "working on the lathe". Bob
 
Actually, this site caters to both ways of thinking. Most of the time, for example, I would rather be working "on" a lathe, radio or vehicle than "with" it. That attitude is in the minority but none-the-less not subject to disparagement.
 
My quick costs for a restoration of the worst of the wear:
Precision bearings, $800+
Bed regrind and scraping, $500
Precision leadscrew stock and machining $250+

Kinda hard to argue that over $1500 in restoration resulting in a nearly good as new but small and light duty 250 lb lathe is hard to justify. Currently my thinking is to use it within its limits as a learning tool (its current role) and when my skills grow enough to actually be able to use the better precision and bigger lathe upgrade as future needs (wants!) dictate.

At least, that's my thinking. As much as I like my 10F, it is always going to be a light duty machine capable of only so much precision...and I hope to see some moderate gunsmithing in my future...not really enough machine for that.

My first lathe was a little warn and flexy in its small bench lathe way (about 100lbs small lathe) it was definetLy a good learning thing and i did manage to make some usfull things on it.

Stuart
 
Back
Top