Replacement G0709 compound index plate

mcdanlj

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Grizzly doesn't list the index plate on the compound as a separate part, as far as I have been able to tell. In the manual, there are a few crudely-drawn lines indicating that an index plate goes vaguely in that area, but no part number is supplied, and I don't see a part that is an obvious match when browing the Grizzly web site.

The printing is coming off mine, and the adhesive holding it in place perished. I perhaps inadvisedly used contact cement to re-attach it; now I can't easily remove it to replace it. ☺

I'd rather have it engraved than printed on. Fill in the letters with black enamel, polish the surface, and suddenly it can survive normal use and be refurbished.

I tried to model it in FreeCAD. I don't know whether it will fit, and right now my CNC router isn't quite accurate enough, and my CNC mill has no control board in it at present, so I can't do a test run right now to find out if it's accurate enough. If anyone else needs one and has CNC handy, please feel free to try this and report how well it works. I have made it with the assumption that the engraving will be cut with a D-bit tool and then filled in, so instead of using a single-line font I used the B612 font developed by Airbus for high readability.

Because I sometimes accidentally use the wrong angle for single-point threading ("29.5°" got stuck in my brain, but asian lathes start from perpendicular to the Z axis instead of parallel to it) I modeled an additional light tick at 60.5° (29.5° from parallel) as a visible reminder.

Screenshot from 2024-01-21 15-22-39.png

If anyone wants the other angle idsplay arrangement, it's just changing some strings in FreeCAD to get it labeled "30 - 40 - 50 - 60 - 70 - 80 - 90 - 80 - 70 - 60 - 50 - 40 - 30" — just a few minutes work.

Sadly, the step file and FCStd file are too large to upload here. But you can find them at https://gitlab.com/mcdanlj/G0709-compound-index-plate

If you try it out, please report whether or not it works. If it doesn't work I'd like to fix it. Sooner or later I do expect to make use of this! ☺
 

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  • CompoundIndex.dxf
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I need one of these as well. I have a Grizzly G4003G and one day I noticed the angle scale was not there. I never saw it again. I would buy one of these in a heartbeat.
 
No idea whether it's the same size on your lathe, but you are welcome to try. I can't upload the SVG file but you can get it from the gitlab link above and see if it's the same size. If it is, and you can't cut it from metal, then perhaps print it, laminate it or put clear tape on it, cut it out, and glue it in place?
 
I would also gladly purchase one for my g4003g if it is the same size. I don't have access to a 3D printer as far as I know but I might habe to start snooping around the area. Great idea by the way.
 
I could use a replacement on my compound also.

How does one figure out the scale size? I know I can just “copy” what I have but I would like to make a larger dial for my saddle travel ?
Mine is riveted onto the compound. Its fading and coming loose
 
I have to replaced mine… made the mistake of going over it when I was cleaning the lathe and erased the numbers…

Damaged dial marker.jpeg

It is Grizzly P07090606-1 - CROSS SLIDE SCALE for anyone looking for the part number… I have it stored away until I finish cleaning and touching up the paint on this lathe... I will replace it once I am done with that...


But I really like your idea of an engraved plate instead…
 
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I have been trying to find a replacement for mine. In the short term I tried finding a protractor thst fit the curve/radius of my compound.
This would work if I could find the right size

I cant see these to be to hard to make and then laser print the markings.
I have even been looking for the straight glue on style like ruler tape

89FF62C7-E37B-4B9F-B765-3CAE16C9EB3C.jpeg
 
It is Grizzly P07090606-1 - CROSS SLIDE SCALE for anyone looking for the part number…

Aha! That's not in the parts list in my manual. Thank you!

I don't have access to a 3D printer as far as I know but I might habe to start snooping around the area.

Even a good FFF/FDM 3D printer (the melty plastic kind) won't produce a good result here, speaking as someone who has 3D printed plenty of text including on a reasonably high-precision printer (good enough to print working threads). You might get a good result from an SLA printer (cured resin type), but many of those are too small.

I cant see these to be to hard to make and then laser print the markings.

Could print them in reverse on a transparency, and then glue the transparency upside down to metal to protect the markings?

Print them in reverse, but also inverted (mirror image and reversing black and white) on transfer paper and use it as a mask for acid etch?

How does one figure out the scale size?

In my case, I scanned the plate when it was removed, next to a scale, used the scale to validate the dimensions of the 600dpi scan, then used three-point circles on the curves to find a circle.

Then I realized that I could measure the diameter of the circular features of the t-nut track and the offsets to get precise diameter for the curves of the plate. That was gratifyingly close to my first approach with the scanner. While I haven't yet manufactured it, I have reasonable confidence in the result. (If it's a little bit off, it's just tweaking a few constraints in the model.)
 
I wonder if I can have my wife give it a try with her laser engraver... using the old plate to play/practice with... hummm
 
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