I also noticed a tiny hole in the middle of the chuck. About 1/8". Too small for anything to fasten through and no sign of any fasteners tapped into the arbor.
Jacobs Taper #3.
Is that the same as a Morse Taper #3? Just shorter...? Yeah... the first place to look is Machinery's Handbook, as always... I'll be back.
The Jacobs catalog lists the Model 36 as a 3JT mount.
There is a 36B listed as a thread mount. In fact, all the thread mount chucks have a B added to the
model number.
Thank you - Yes, just like that.
But I seriously don't have a drift that will get it out. I tried making a tapered tool with a bar of CRS and now I have a tapered bar of CRS with a banged-up notch in it. I'll buy a drift or maybe rework this piece of flat bar. It would be a good refresher on the art of heat treating and quenching. Someday I will need to get the arbor out. For now, having the chuck off is all I'm worried about.
Of course, as I mentioned before, I NOW have to clean up the nasty surface, before putting it back on!
go forward with removing the arbor, trying to clean it up and fit another chuck is likely to be an exercise in frustration. That arbor will pop out with the right wedge and you can get one for just a few bucks. then purchase a new arbor with your new chuck and make sure the taper in your quill is clean before installing them.
There are few things more frustrating than having a chuck come loose while drilling....
another good tip is to turn it the way to tighten it then really fast go the way to loosen it and dont hold the top part only the bottom and the harder it is to twist the better.
Get a wedge. They are only a couple of dollars. Before getting a wedge I used whatever was handy. The results were typical of your CRS experience. Once you do get it out it will be easier to remove it in the future. My drill presses have a MT2 taper which is the same as the taper on the tailstock on the lathe. So I am routinely switching the chuck from one drill press to the lathe. The wedge makes this easy.
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