Reinforcing the HF 3 Shelf Cart

[Nelson]

I had my HF Red Bandsaw on their 3 shelf cart, with the top shelf turned upside down.

One day, I was manuevering it, when the 2 non-swiveling wheels got stuck. The wheels crunched into the third shelf. The cart tipped on its side and went over- not nice. The wheels are reinforced on the bottom across the length of the shelf, not the width. So they can crunch inward with the shelf.

Photos:



I had to remove the saw and all crap on the cart. Not good.


What to do? The cart is too top heavy with the saw on it, and the rated strength is a joke. The steel is paper-thin. Needs beefing up, but how?
I decided to buy another, and DOUBLE up the component shelves- two layers of steel, but there is a trick to it.


Nelson

 

[Nelson]

You have to open the flanges all around the inner shelf. Use a screwdriver for that, working it on edge like a can opener till all flanges on all 4 sides are open. Then slide the shelves together and try to line up the holes. Begin by putting a few bolts into the supporting angles and shelves. You could double up the steel angle irons too, for extra strength, but you will need 44 new longer bolts, otherwise, you can just use the ones that came with the new cart.

After they are opened, and the double shelf installed, you close the flanges around the bottom shelf drawer with a pliers.



I will sand the flange surface smooth when I am ready, and re-spray the areas red, just to make them look neater, and protect from rust when I use coolant. The interior of the top shelf will hold the coolant. I will install a drain into a coolant bucket.

 

[Nelson]

The bottom shelf that holds the wheels will be beefed up in the same manner- have not done that yet, but will today.


One reason the cart tips, is that the two fixed casters cannot move sideways to support the top-heavy saw, and so the cart tips with the saw on it.
To remedy this, I replaced the two fixed casters with the two roller bearing ones from the old broken cart.



In addition, I am using large square steel channel to hold the saw to the cart and boost it to the right level.



The top shelf will be used for holding and draining the coolant flow. I will install a coolant pump and system on the second shelf.


I MAY also install some steel plate under the bottom shelf of the cart across the wheelbase to beef up the weight near the wheels if I feel it necessary.
Also, I will add weight to the bottom to counter the top-heavy-ness.
It won't be pretty, but it WILL hold my bandsaw securely. Hoping to finish this today, after my clock repair lesson. Will post more photos then!


:tiphat:Nelson

 

[Nelson]

Anything functional is pretty in my book. :lmao: Keep at it Nelson yer gettin there.

"Billy G" :biggrin:

This thing will be like a tank when I get done with it. :lmao:

But still mobile.
Having to right a cart with a 100+ pound saw with 50 pounds of metal on it with my bad back ticks me off, so I got moving.


:tiphat:Nelson

 

[nctoxic]

Nelson,
I'm not familiar with those HF carts, or how thin the sheetmetal is, but from the pics those corner pieces of angle don't look very sturdy. It might be worthwhile to spring for the extra bolts and use both sets of corner pieces.

I didn't like the flimsy stand that my HF bandsaw came with, so I made one using 1 1/2" angle. But I never use coolant. so I didn't need the tray as you use it. It would be nice to have the tray to catch the chips, though. Looks good.

 

[joesmith]

Interesting, I looked at that cart as a base for my 10" Lewis shaper. Instead I bought the heavier 3 drawer card. It's rated at about 600#. i think now I will reinforce it when I cut 5" off the legs. You should now have a good stand. I also plan to add angle outriggers with 1/2" adjusting bolts so I can anchor the card while operating the shaper. The wheels only will come in to play when relocating it.

Joe

 

[Tony Wells]

Way to go, Nelson. I always figure that things bought are built as cheaply as possible, and can be improved. I like the coolant tray approach too.

 

[Nelson]

Nelson,
I'm not familiar with those HF carts, or how thin the sheetmetal is, but from the pics those corner pieces of angle don't look very sturdy. It might be worthwhile to spring for the extra bolts and use both sets of corner pieces.

You have a good point :thumbzup: - the steel is as thin as cardboard. Their 450 pound listed max capacity is BS. I may spring for the 44 bolts, only a few dollars more at HD and start replacing them.

:tiphat:Nelson

 

[Nelson]

Interesting, I looked at that cart as a base for my 10" Lewis shaper. Instead I bought the heavier 3 drawer card. It's rated at about 600#. i think now I will reinforce it when I cut 5" off the legs. You should now have a good stand. I also plan to add angle outriggers with 1/2" adjusting bolts so I can anchor the card while operating the shaper. The wheels only will come in to play when relocating it.

Joe

Joe, they are having a sale on the heavier one online- it's like $100 or less. There is a coupon, SPRING10 I think, also for 10% off you can get.
For a shaper, I'd build a stand of steel angles bolted or welded together. I wouldn't trust the HF stand.

So you are probably saying, why didn't I go for the heavier one. (I have one already that I mounted my compound miter saw on).
I probably should have paid the $100 for the heavier one- the gauge steel is way thicker, and the wheels lock. This one is thinner in width, and the wheels are much bigger, so it rolls better over rough terrain as long as it stays vertical and doesn't tip over. The heavier one has smaller wheels. I tend to move the bandsaw a lot to where the job is. The top tray on the more expensive one is a little deeper- too deep perhaps. I don't really need the drawer- an open cart is better for metal stock.

For now, I will beef this up and make do.


:tiphat:Nelson

 

[Old Iron]

Rust-oleum Red is a perfect match for the HF Red.

Paul