Recommend me a quality-ish compressed air regulator & filter

[mksj]

One thing to be very careful about if you are planning to go to a 2 stage compressor/175 PSI is that many regulators and air filters have maximum pressure ratings that may be exceeded. Any filter with a polycarbonate bowl typically have a maximum pressure rating of 150 PSI. Above this pressure they are metal bowels (you should not be able to see into the bowl). I have been using the Norgren filters and regulators on two compressors that I have, they have worked very well. I bought mine as NOS on eBay at about 30% of the retail cost. I have the previous series which are the F74/B74 series with a separate particle/water F74G filter followed by a coalescing F74C and then a regulator. Newer series is the F84/B84 . I use the 1/2" port series and the connecting pipes is 3/4" to limit pressure/flow drop. I tun the compressor regulator to 130 PSI and then have separate air regulators at each drop. I run a 2 stage compressor ~15 CFM@175 PSI. If you get a replacement compressor consider getting an inter-cooler which drops a lot of the moisture out of the system, I get no water in any of my drops.

Norgren B84G-4AK-AD3-RMG Filter Regulator 1/2" with Knob, they also come in 3/8".

Norgren B84G-4AK-AD3-RMG Filter Regulator 1/2" with Knob | eBay

<p>This filter regulator from Norgren is a reliable and high-quality product, perfect for those in need of compressed air treatment. With a port diameter of 1/2 inch and a unit quantity of 1, it's suitable for a wide range of applications. The brand is well-known for producing top-notch...

www.ebay.com

 

[keeena]

@mksj - Agreed - your setup (long term) is what I'll eventually get to. I've seen some DIY passive intercoolers (maze of copper pipe w/ drain/s) to help pull moisture out...both pre- and post-tank. I was planning on a post-tank setup at some point. Also agree on up-sizing for the main supply backbone.

[EDIT] - The Norgren documentation for the coalescing filter says the operating pressure is 91 psi (supply can be 145 or 290 depending on bowl type). Does that mean that the output is limited to 91psi?

 

[7milesup]

@mksj - Agreed - your setup (long term) is what I'll eventually get to. I've seen some DIY passive intercoolers (maze of copper pipe w/ drain/s) to help pull moisture out...both pre- and post-tank. I was planning on a post-tank setup at some point. Also agree on up-sizing for the main supply backbone.

[EDIT] - The Norgren documentation for the coalescing filter says the operating pressure is 91 psi (supply can be 145 or 290 depending on bowl type). Does that mean that the output is limited to 91psi?

I believe that the most significant benefit will be a pre-tank setup due to the temperature delta. I had an air conditioner coil plumbed into mine and it was amazing. My only mistake was that the drop leg wasn't long enough. That type of setup also helps preserve your tank.

 

[talvare]

I have used all of those brands that @mmcmdl has available. All good stuff.

Ted

 

[keeena]

Another Q after seeing @mksj 's setup:

Assuming the filters can handle max possible compressor pressure: does it matter if the regulator goes before or after the filters? My compressor does not have a regulator at the tank, just a ball valve. On his setup, the regulator is after the filters, but its implied he also has a regulator at the compressor.

 

[G-ManBart]

Another Q after seeing @mksj 's setup:

Assuming the filters can handle max possible compressor pressure: does it matter if the regulator goes before or after the filters? My compressor does not have a regulator at the tank, just a ball valve. On his setup, the regulator is after the filters, but its implied he also has a regulator at the compressor.

I have a little bit of everything on my setup. I've got the factory after cooler...radiator and fan between the pump and the tank, and a large water separator between the after cooler and the tank as well. From the tank output I run to a combo unit with air/water/oil/particulate filters and a desiccant canister. The regulator and gauge are on the input side prior to the filters from the factory so that's how mine is set....works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0983TCG7B/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?pd_rd_i=B0983TCG7B&pd_rd_w=Mz9QA&content-id=amzn1.sym.eb7c1ac5-7c51-4df5-ba34-ca810f1f119a&pf_rd_p=eb7c1ac5-7c51-4df5-ba34-ca810f1f119a&pf_rd_r=PYTRVX4TMVQWVZBWXXGW&pd_rd_wg=sygOO&pd_rd_r=58c997ac-1a6a-4f7b-b632-3d726629ce85&s=hi&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&th=1

 

[keeena]

[...] works perfectly.

I'd hope so - you have the kitchen sink of setups!

On the product you linked: first component in the setup is a combo reg/filter. I'm 99% sure the air runs thru the filter circuit on those before the regulator. That's how my current RapidAir combo unit works, anyway.

 

[mksj]

The general practice on air filtering is to have a water separator/particle filter first followed by a coalescing filter and then the pressure regulator, this prevents any particles and moisture interfering/contaminating with the pressure regulator. In some cases where you need ultra dry air, a refrigerated air dryers or desiccant beads would be used after the coalescing filter. As far as pressure rating of the coalescing filter, the Norgren F74C/F84C with the metal bowl "AD/QD models" are rated for a maximum pressure of 250 PSI. The limitation of the coalescing filters that the rated CFM is much lower than a similar sized water separator/particle filter. I am using the F74H which is a high flow variant, the F74C is still good for 33 CFM. These come and go on eBay, just need to look and sometimes offer a lower price.

After-coolers should be between the compressor and the tank, they dramatically reduce the outlet air temperature and this results in the moisture dropping out in the tank. There are also Air-Liquid Centrifugal (Vortex) Separators that can be used to drop out most of the water before it gets into the tank, but the air must be cooled first before this. Some have plastic internals that limit the maximum temperature. Might be an consideration if one is using the compressor on a continuous high volume bases. Inter-coolers are between the first and 2nd stage of the compressor. I also recommend some form of automated tank drain, mine is mechanical and operates at the end of each on cycle. Some examples below, you can look up the nomenclature for the F74 and F84 series. I have been using these filters for many years, I am still on the same internal filters.

I just noted that you probably want to use a manual drain as opposed to automatic for higher pressures. Didn't see that previously.

Air Liquid Separators

Centrifugal Air Liquid Separators installed after intercoolers and aftercoolers remove entrained water, oil and particulate from compressed air systems

fd-separators.com

Coalescing Filter
NORGREN F74H-4AD-AD0

NORGREN F74H-4AD-AD0 250PSI NSNP | eBay

FILTER, 250PSI.

www.ebay.com

Norgren F74C-4AD-AD0

Norgren F74C-4AD-AD0 Filter W/ 4344-01 Element | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Norgren F74C-4AD-AD0 Filter W/ 4344-01 Element at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Particle/water
Norgren F74G-4AD-QD1

Norgren Pneumatic Filter F74G-4AD-QD1 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Norgren Pneumatic Filter F74G-4AD-QD1 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

NORGREN F74G-4AN-AD3

NEW NORGREN F74G-4AN-AD3 PNEUMATIC FILTER F74G4ANAD3 | eBay

NEW, NO BOX.

www.ebay.com

 

[G-ManBart]

After-coolers should be between the compressor and the tank, they dramatically reduce the outlet air temperature and this results in the moisture dropping out in the tank.

My Saylor-Beall came with their performance package which includes the after cooler and automatic tank drain along with a few other things. I added the water separator between the after cooler and tank to prevent water from getting into the tank in the first place. Maybe I'm missing something, but I can't imagine why that wouldn't be a standard feature...I'd much rather have the water mostly gone before the tank.

 

[mksj]

I agree a water separator does make sense if you have an after cooler. There are temperature limitations (150F) for many of these water separators as some have plastic separating elements or filter separators they may not holdup due to the exit temperatures or peak pulse pressure with a piston compressor. There are also some round chamber stand pipe types that are sold or can be fabricated. In high humidity area or high continuous use or high volume air delivery, it would make a lot of sense to have a water separator before the air enters the tank.