Rebuilding/Refurbishing an Atlas Motor

[VSAncona]

The original motor on my shaper also has a cloth-wrapped cord. The shaper was purchased new just after WWII, according to the owner I bought it from.

 

[C-Bag]

Thanks Vince, that helps with my impression too. I ran through the thread on serial #'s on Atlas and it didn't surprise me that it's hard to nail down any date info. Just the fact this motor has oil caps was making me think late 40's early 50's. And it seems like the original motor. It was just idle curiosity more than anything.

 

[C-Bag]

There really isn't any good reason for anyone to have used asbestos insulated wire in a motor. One that got hot enough to need it would be on it's way to scrap anyway.

While I agree with your sentiment, in truth asbestos was used for all kinds of weird things. House wiring insulation, popcorn ceilings, texture paint, sanding filler, roofing shingles, spray on insulation just to name a few. We take it for granted now but before the health risks were known docs used to say smoking was good for your health too.

 

[VSAncona]

My shaper is serial number 8911. The parts list/manual that came with it is dated July 1944, so it's safe to assume it was built after that date. The man I purchased it from said his father bought it new after WWII to start some kind of manufacturing business that never really took off. He said he was just a boy when his dad bought it.

 

[C-Bag]

Mine says 012199

 

[wa5cab]

We have almost no shapers in the database. How about writing them up in the Serial Number thread at the top of the forum.

 

[butterknife]

Lou!

Thanks so much for this write up with pics!
I am also a new user, thanks to this post.

I found a killer, nearly unused Atlas 64 DP with a motor that looks showroom new. It's a model 2720, and looks nearly identical to yours.

It runs, but because I tore the DP apart to clean and regrease, I figured I'd check the motor too. I assume the machine sat in a closet for 75 years because all the grease had dried up into a glue, gumming up the works.

I decided to replace the skf brand bearings, but I'm wondering why i can't find exact replacements. I see you choose zze type bearings, which I assume is dual metal shielded... Not sure what the E means in name.

So on my motor, i see 6301 rsz and 6203 rsz.
Is there a reason you chose the replacements you did? I can't find much info on this motor to know specifics and recommendations. I assume rsz means 1 side rubber shielded, 1 side metal? But that type rsz doesn't seem to exist anymore.

Figured I'd ask someone who's been there before.

Thanks again for the great thread

 

[BillL]

Hello to All;

I am in the process of refurbishing an old Atlas 1/2 hp motor for a 10F lathe. It came off an Atlas band saw and was full of sawdust and old oil/grease. I can't get the case apart after removing the 4 steel rods holding the case together. Has anyone done this before, and will I damage the motor by disassembling it? It was tested beforehand and did run, although it was slow starting...I suspected that the starting capacitor would need replacing. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Lou O.

Well well, 9 yrs goes by and my 10F motor just hummed - no start. I took it apart and got the proper cap from Grainger. Mine has cast iron end housings, and different bearings. Mine are 15 X 35 X 12.3 mm SKF bearings - no matches found, but I cleaned in carb cleaner overnight, removed the shield and found a felt seal ring. Inspection of the races showed no issues although the cage rubbed a little. How about that, it has run since 4-44 per the date on the CAP. The felt rings were oiled with a drop of 20-40 synthetic, and packed the bearing with SCH100 Mobil synthetic bearing grease. The centrifugal portion of the switch worked smoothly but lubed the shaft with some Krytox 205 as it does not dry out. The switch was sanded and cleaned, then "adjusted" to ensure good contact when stationary. The biggest challenge, other than remembering just how it came apart, was ensuring the wire insulation was not broken. It is now back in the lathe and running again. WoW - - 79 yrs old and finally the cap was dead. If any of you have bad bearings, there are some 15X35X11 and X13 available sealed both sides for alternators. I was on the verge of using the 11mm width and adding some spacer rings to ensure the end float was still in spec. I assume the housings were cast iron as aluminum was in short supply in war time. Also, one 13mm and one 11mm might also work for the total length with no issues. BTW: Alternator bearings are sealed with sides and live a really long time with the grease they use.

In doing research on the starter contact switch, I found some Chinese sources for silver alloy contact points that can be installed like a rivet. This means you can restore your contacts with a little attention to detail.

Now, some of these mods might require a lathe, so it is a warning to always have two!

Edit: I would really like to know how the OP, Lou O. , got that stator so darned clean?? Vapor blasting with CO2 maybe. Gotta get that working if so.